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240Z Fuel Tank Removal. Oh Dear.


gav240z

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Hi Gav

I did my tank my self see the post I put together a while back.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13669-guide-how-to-restore-rusty-fuel-tank-without-splitting-it/?p=168254

 

Yours actually looks better than mine did inside and out.

I did not bother to take out the dents in mine as you do not really see it and the does not effect the performance - I did have one cool bit advice this is bit a sly joke as well - Anyway fill the tank with water google the expansion factor of frozen water it might expand by 30% for example fill the tank to 30% off full and put in a big-ass freezer ice expands and pop goes the dents and hopefully the sides do not split - Cool idea get it???

I didn't try it but some one could give it go.

 

Anyway my post may be useful

Cheers AK

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The ice trick is a good 1, shame I don't have a big enough freezer.

 

I heard other suggestions re: compressed air into the tank to pop the dents out. Will see what the specialist in Alexandria says.

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Dropped the tank and radiator down there this morning. Going for a modern 3 core style radiator, which is a bit more expensive than a normal 3 core but should be a more efficient unit. Will also keep things cooler, not sure if what was in it was 2 core or 3 but it looked beyond it's natural life span and it looks like it had been replaced at some stage in it's life.

 

The fuel tank seems to be in good shape, and we are hoping most of the dents come out of it, actually the fuel tank work is going to be less than the radiator! I thought it would be the other way around.

 

An eBay $200 alloy radiator would have been significantly cheaper, but in my opinion looks out of place in a restored engine bay. Fine for a modified car, but doesn't look right in a car that I'm trying to keep 'period correct' looking.

So much for the rat rod eh?

 

Also if anyone has a radiator shroud please let me know? Kind of need it urgently.

http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14823-wtb-radiator-shroud-piece-240z-urgent/

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Dropped the tank and radiator down there this morning. Going for a modern 3 core style radiator, which is a bit more expensive than a normal 3 core but should be a more efficient unit. Will also keep things cooler, not sure if what was in it was 2 core or 3 but it looked beyond it's natural life span and it looks like it had been replaced at some stage in it's life.

Hi Mate

 

You won't regret going the for special 3 core unit. I put a 3 core dimple tube core in the Chev and have never looked back.

Would have dne the same for the Z but decided to give the alloy a go, originality wasn't that important to me.

 

 

Cheers

 

PB

Edited by PB260Z
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Let us know how they get the dents out Gav. I imagine the ice trick may not work as it would expand unevenly and bulge the tank much as when you put a plastic bottle in the freezer. I imagine you would face the same problem with compressed air and it may fail at a weak point. I thought about using the easy-beat to do it but I reckon it would feel like defusing a bomb! You would have to purge it with argon/CO2 I think. How dare you demand modern efficient cooling for the radiator over originality-boooo! :)

 

Cheers

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  • 4 weeks later...
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So I picked up the fuel tank and radiator this morning. The radiator looks good, the shroud piece I got wasn't quite 100% original 240z but the guys said if I find 1 they will re-weld it on for free.

 

The fuel tank I'm somewhat happy with, they tried to get the dents out but it's still got quite a few dents in it. They told me they didn't want to try to remove them as they were worried about damaging the tank if they tried further, which I understand but I'm not exactly 100% happy with using it on my car. The little OCD guy in my head is nagging away at me over it. I know it's hidden under the car and for the most part will hardly ever be seen so for now I'm going to try and forget about it and move on. Removing a fuel tank later after the car is on the road isn't too difficult. So I guess it's something I can take care of in future. The tank itself was in good shape just dented... So it cleaned up internally really well.

 

I am afraid I don't have any photos as both items were wrapped in cardboard boxes for transport and I'm reluctant to remove the packaging for fear of it sustaining storage damage. The paint job on the fuel tank was ok, quite a few paint bubbles in it on the top part, but that won't be seen once installed.

 

So very happy with the radiator work, less happy with the fuel tank.

 

Total cost of both items was around $1,100 (inc. GST).

 

~$700 for radiator work.

~$400 for fuel tank work.

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  • 5 years later...

@gav240zdid you ever end up fixing those dents? I have the same problem with mine, huge dents but perfect internals 

09574C71-4D2C-4F20-A525-B4E2DC9FBD19.thumb.jpeg.f3b0c5b9fddd1773843266de67a7ed31.jpegEA106973-DDE3-40E9-A7D8-28B9367E28C6.thumb.jpeg.cb12fba42fc6ca5c619bbf0a5bccf284.jpeg64461F1B-6035-478A-B3AB-39F6B27082B2.thumb.jpeg.104b857947388b049248184f08a3c327.jpeg

66B8B662-5EE8-4231-8FBF-8446CBB81B6D.thumb.jpeg.fc2783ae9e00bd95636196bdbd23e38d.jpegI have a stud welder and slide hammer kit and was thinking of giving that a go but as you were I am worried about welding activities on a fuel tank… also does anyone know what metal the tanks are actually made of? I can’t find anything on it

Mines been empty and dry for 3 years so I’m not overly worried about explosion. 

I was also thinking of trying to make up a bracket I can bolt on with the drain plug and using the slide hammer to try and pull the majority of the dent out. 

or trying those suction dent pullers

New fuel tanks are around 1000 AUD shipped from s30 world so there’s always that option 

 

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They are made of a very stiff zinc coated steel, but they can be welded without any problems.
The suction puller wont work - the dents are to big.

The slide hammer in the drain hole will work, and you might have to drill a hole in the top and use a length of rod to tap the dents out.

I'd personally focus on the bodywork first - the tank can be done anytime.

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1 hour ago, C.A.R. said:

They are made of a very stiff zinc coated steel, but they can be welded without any problems.
The suction puller wont work - the dents are to big.

The slide hammer in the drain hole will work, and you might have to drill a hole in the top and use a length of rod to tap the dents out.

I'd personally focus on the bodywork first - the tank can be done anytime.

Thanks Lachy, lol yep bodywork is priority, hoping to pull my finger out of my arse and get it blasted this year…

 

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