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Rust Proofing

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#21 gav240z



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Posted 27 August 2016 - 12:06 PM

I've used both (POR-15 on the Datsun, KBS on my car trailer) and I couldn't tell the difference. 


I'll be using KBS in future simply because they are an Australian company.


Yep, to be honest I don't think either POR-15 or KBS has a magic formula here. At the end of the day the coating just has to seal the metal to prevent oxidation and the benefit of these types of coatings is that they are quite durable once applied so hard to chip or flake off. As a result they help prevent the surface from being exposed to the elements and therefore rusting.


I also like the idea of supporting an Australian based company and product.

#22 Retro Z

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Posted 27 August 2016 - 07:00 PM

KBS is all in the prep. The degreaser, then the acid etch phosphate stage before the actual paint goes on. The paint apparently cures only when subject to moisture which it draws out of the panel and dehydrates the metal.
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#23 Riceburner


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Posted 27 August 2016 - 11:00 PM

They sound very similar to me. I have only used POR15, it's great but don't leave it exposed to UV for too long as it can not handle it at all.


KBS is all in the prep. The degreaser, then the acid etch phosphate stage before the actual paint goes on. The paint apparently cures only when subject to moisture which it draws out of the panel and dehydrates the metal.


Surely the moisture would be drawn from the atmosphere and not the sheet metal?

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#24 CBR Jeff

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Posted 30 August 2016 - 12:33 PM

I have had several interesting conversations regarding the POR-15 and KBS products over the last few months. These have been accompanied with research and some tests.
Basically I have come to the conclusion that,

-Surface prep is everything. If it's not clean, clean and if you don't follow the three step process the product won't stick

-Temperature is very important. To cold or hot and the product won't adhere properly and tends to dry differently and is then subject to peeling off in sheets

-it's a great product when used properly and on items that are (don't know how to discribed this) parts or solid and can be coated in their entirety

-it is also very effective on small parts or sections of the shell that have rust and can be contained or sectioned off

-only use either the (with POR products) POR Tie coat primer or the U-POL Acid 8 etch primer

The problem I have been wrestling with is the use of these type of products on large sections of the shell. The use of water during two of the processes over larger areas allows water (particularly during the wash down phase) to possibly migrate into cavities and joins. This is hard to control. Given that the cleaning process removes all of the oils and waxes that have been helping to protect areas, these cars had very (none) undercoat and the second process uses a chemical reaction to basically induce a controled rust for the next coat to bond onto I have concernes about rust control after the event. So my plan is to continue to use the products in small areas of existing rust that the removal of the section is not warranted or possible and the use of water is minimised. A recent conversation with a panel repairer and a coach builder have strengthened my feeling on this position. It is apparent that the entire section that it prepped needs to be covered with the bonding coat, both sides as this is the only way to stop the process that has been started and seal the metal.
Comments? Thoughts?


Edited by CBR Jeff, 30 August 2016 - 12:36 PM.

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#25 1600dave


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Posted 30 August 2016 - 02:00 PM

I very carefully followed the instructions to the letter. I did the entire underside of the car with POR-15 after stripping back to bare metal, as well as the inside floorpan, inside windscreen plenum area, and a few other random spots. I did as suggested in the instructions and sprayed a mist coat of primer (non-POR-15 brand) onto the POR-15 while it was still slightly tacky.


I also hit the areas concerned with a hair drier after the last application of water and before POR-15 application to dry any water off.


The shell is still on the rotisserie but seems to have no POR-15 "bonding" issues to the shell, or next coats to POR-15. Where I painted a few coats onto the rotisserie just to use up any leftover POR-15, it has peeled off between application of POR-15. That was with no prep and a ime period of weeks / months between applications between the coats, and no prep of the original metal. The first coat is still soundly attached to the RHS of the rotisserie, but further coats just peel off whenever I bump them.


I think I mentioned above, I probably won't use it again on cars and will go for epoxy primer on future restorations.

Edited by 1600dave, 30 August 2016 - 02:01 PM.

#26 peter t

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Posted 12 June 2017 - 03:22 PM

Penatrol ?

#27 Lurch ™

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Posted 12 June 2017 - 05:19 PM

Penatrol ?

Wonderful stuff, but apparently isn't stable under Acrylic based paints....

#28 PZG302


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Posted 14 June 2017 - 08:06 AM

Another vote for KBS. I painted the underside and engine bay of my S14 shell when it was on  the rotisserie after getting all the sound deadening and sealant off.


Only problem I have had is the colour changed from the nice bright white white to a creamy white over a few months. Because of this I will have to scuff the engine bay and hit it with the same white the rest of the car will get.


In terms of the coating itself, I haven't been able to knock any of the coating off car when it was still on the rotisserie, or now on the ground with the suspension it it.


Prep was as per the instructions after I had cleaned all the deadening material off with wire brush or plastic paint stripper wheels. After hosing with the high pressure water spray I used compressed air to blow dry the engine bay and underside before priming and then painting. The only thing I would do different would be to use a sponge applicator rather than brushes like I did. Spraying wasn't an option for me at the time.

#29 peter t

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Posted 14 June 2017 - 10:54 AM

My RA60 has been done with TECTYL from brand new and not a bit of rust can be found. One thing I did notice the holes where the wand has been inserted has been punched not drilled which makes sense as it leaves no little bits of steel inside panels. Also I have this rather great little spray gun for spraying Tectyl and lanolin everywhere.

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Edited by peter t, 14 June 2017 - 10:55 AM.

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