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Project 260Z - Stages

260z Restoration Rb26

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#61 mspecr


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Posted 31 May 2016 - 05:27 PM

That's a very risky approach. 


I'd suggest you engage one soon and set out all you propose to undertake and get his response. They all seem to have their own idiosyncrasies and you are best to know what they are


Mine wants door intrusion bars and a high mounted stop-light, neither are required on a 1972 car, BUT, he is allowing a whole range of modifications which others may question. I've contacted him on numerous occasion (in writing - email) to seek his determination on this and that. He dropped by to see the car finish welded on the rotisserie and he was pleased with what had been done. I know when I finally submit the car it will only be a matter of workmanship that he will review,


You shouldn't have to pay all the fees upfront, I didn't.


Oh, nearly forgot. By engaging sooner rather than later they end up giving you free consulting advice, not simply the approval. When you set out before them what you propose to do they can sometimes offer alternatives, based on their experience, which can save you time and money..


This statement is so true !!!... 


Choice of engineer is crucial, some of them forget who they are working for. My 280ZX V6 engine and gearbox conversion was pretty well completed by the time one was engaged, presentation is all important as is the quality of work of course. 


And this one as well..


I see what you mean I contacted a fair few already to get there vibe on the situation and its bit of a hit and miss for the gents ( so far ) over here. I have found one that's quite reasonable with only requiring emissions gear like charcoal canisters from the newer engine to be installed, even thou the car wasn't installed with one, but he seams interested and willing to discuss further.


Still a few more that I haven't contacted yet but there starting to get quite distant from where I am located, this is somewhat a task in itself really :S.

#62 mspecr


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Posted 07 June 2016 - 12:50 AM

For this week I had a craving for pulling things apart, so the victims where the front struts, rear struts, and both sub frames.

I did actually attempt to clean up the parts, but for the time and effort it seam a logical choice to get them blasted and powder coated.

Here wd40 is your friend.


Just for reference :


Strut Bearing : Nachi - 28TG52 


Front bearing set :

Outer NSK -  LM11949

Inner NSK -  LM67048

HUB seal :  KC 48 62 6


Rear bearing set :

Outer NSK - 831Z-16C4 *note this has a extended inner race on one side which should be sealed, mount this side most outwards / closest to hub face.

Inner Nachi - RLS10

HUB seal : 43232 E4100


th_20160604_144749_zps95qdxai0.jpg Surface rust finish.


th_20160604_155022_zpsykhuaz1i.jpg Only 1 boot survived, anyone know of alternate replacements for these ?




th_20160604_144727_zpsglljb5y3.jpg cylinders looked great, thou i will throw in a re seal kit while everything is out.










th_20160604_162253_zpssed1xvs8.jpg * The outer rear wheel bearing with its extended inner race and sealed edge. 


Pulling apart is easy, putting it back together is another, I'll go more into detail when we come to that part.

I heard stories of people having issues pulling out spindle pins which I was dreading, lucky enough mine came out easy with only a few taps phew...  Only question now should I leave the old bushes in or remove prior to powder coating ? There all going to be replaced at some stage.






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#63 mspecr


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Posted 10 June 2016 - 07:05 PM

Managed to swing past a local powder coating joint in O'connor to discuss what they can do for me,

turns out they do in house media blasting also. In mentioning about how they want things masked one of the gents gave me roll of black tesa tape which was quite nice of them.


While masking away I came to the rear control arms and was pondering the idea if i should remove the old bushes now or later. I had the new bushes here so I went and measured them to see if they will fit, the existing bushing with its outer cage was roughly around 30mm, so these had to go.



th_20160610_153851_zpseatzhnli.jpg bondage tape.


th_20160610_130644_zpscd9o0e6p.jpg new bushing


th_20160610_125547_zpsnzur5gdd.jpg get these.




th_20160610_130126_zpstfdkqqcv.jpg burn this.


th_20160610_125953_zpscyi0bijj.jpg poke the hot tube out.


th_20160610_130915_zpszk3flmho.jpg find a saw. make 4 cuts in a compass. I was light with cutting so i didn't go to far.


th_20160610_144335_zpskmzedp5y.jpg Fold in like so.


th_20160610_143849_zpsvduxhnzi.jpg using a 3 jaw bearing puller and the rear wheel bearing spacer for the backing press till it falls out, wd40 helps.


th_20160610_151503_zpsvt7bgbtw.jpg clean up the hole / burrs with some sandpaper, wipe clean and test fit. Repeat x4.


The diff mustache bar looks to be a similar method, I'll get onto that tomorrow.

Guess its better to burn them out now instead of fighting later and trying not to damage the new paint later.







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#64 GK510


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Posted 10 June 2016 - 07:39 PM

Talk about dedication. Seems like there's nothing that's going to stop you progressing at a rapid rate.

I'd be interested to see how your suspension bits turn out. I plan to do strut inserts and springs on mine soon and have been contemplating wether to go the whole hog and paint/powder coat the bits while I'm at it.

#65 mspecr


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Posted 10 June 2016 - 08:10 PM

Haha cheers :D,  " snow ball effect " comes to mind, and its a problem, frankly I " could " just leave it, but since it has to be inspected I may as well go the whole 9 yards. Presentation alone could be the difference in changing someones opinion. Which reminds me I haven't given much thought about springs, so cheers for the reminder.


If you got time to do it, do it properly, nothing worse then going back to something you could of done when you had the chance to do it right the first time. Just my opinion. :)

#66 PB260Z


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Posted 10 June 2016 - 08:50 PM

If you got time to do it, do it properly, nothing worse then going back to something you could of done when you had the chance to do it right the first time. Just my opinion. :)

"Do it once, Do it well"


Was a sign in the metalwork shop at high school - great advice

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#67 260DET


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Posted 11 June 2016 - 08:18 AM

There are multi purpose boots around that may suit the steering, general parts shops usually have them.

#68 mspecr


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Posted 11 June 2016 - 08:18 PM

There are multi purpose boots around that may suit the steering, general parts shops usually have them.


Yup indeed, I got a set of universal ones for the steering rack. Its the boots for the Struts I'm chasing. Just did a comparison between them as it was a good idea but they just fall short sadly :( but yeah must be bigger ones out there.


Steering Rack universal boot :

18000 - Motorgear



th_20160611_180252_zpsi7ktcmab.jpg OEM strut boot top, Universal steering boot below.


th_20160611_180401_zpst9y1z4h9.jpg Top of strut boot.


th_20160611_180425_zpswlpk67om.jpg Bottom of strut boot.


I'll keep looking something has to be out there that's close enough.


Continuing on today was the mustache bar, same deal here had to burn out the center crush tube, while this was going on I was approached by a person promoting the greens movement. It was ironic outer all times to be burning bushes out in the driveway, lets just say they didn't stay for too long sadly. 


I could of left it burning till all the rubber was out, but the fumes where gassing me out of the garage, so I spent the time doing it mechanically. The rest was just masking odd bits and pieces, threads, studs holes ect ect.




th_image-20160611_155656_zpsjhshtxba.jpg Standing up for Fremantle !




th_20160611_163317_zps7lc4dnyz.jpg 44mm hole saw make quick work of removing left over rubber.


th_20160611_164459_zpsqwy5lcsd.jpg die grinder, file and sandpaper cleans the remaining rubber.




th_20160611_164520_zpsnzihztbv.jpg snug fit.


th_20160611_154248_zpsjerlgwon.jpg almost there.


Now its trying to find what else I have left out, then compile a list so the powder coaters know what is supposed to be there, last thing you want is to lose something and have no proof of its existence. 

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#69 Brabham


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Posted 12 June 2016 - 05:49 PM

I hope you burnt the greens flyer while you were at it - that would have been great!
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#70 mspecr


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Posted 22 June 2016 - 12:46 AM

@ Brabham. your onto it buddy :D


Its been a while thanks to being flat out at work and what not, plus its pitch black by 6pm.. which sadly is the time I get home nowadays. *shakes fist at peak hour freeway*. So its time for a short story...

I started pulling apart my old RB. Quick history of my new boat anchor goes as followed, I built it about 5-6 years ago, and was home in a pewter grey S15 spec R, making a modest 450 with the most linear power curve on pump fuel. Life was great. 1st is useless. 2nd still useless 3rd. the same .4th interesting. 5th might blow this gear, being that it was a weekend car it was driven hard every time it was started.

The setup listed below easy can develop more power but I never found the need being a light weight car.. as much as I don't like to admit this but I was the limiting factor in it. ( I need more skill in driving... but being half Asian it " should " come natural to me.. least I thought anyways. ... ) So somewhere along the line I got mature and got distracted by the idea of the Z dream, so the s15 had to go. ( this is where my 2+2 came about ).

Prior the s15 leaving me I swapped out the drive line and engine setup, this is where I found my issue... a cracked block, not deck area but on the side between #3 and #4, this is more of a cast / structural fault if anything, a somewhat common problem on hard engines.. Looking into it, it can / might be fixed however you still have to tear it down, thou with lots of rbs around it seamed more cost effective in finding another block and machining that too suit, plus it gives me a chance to add / mod / start from blank slate. Here it sat in the garage under wraps for a good year or two.


Specs :

Later r33 GTR crank. (long nose)

ACL race bearings.

Eagle Rods.

Cp Pistons @ 87mm @ 8.5 CR

272* (248* @ .050") In and Ex cams, 11mm lift.

Greedy Adjustable Cam gears.

Tomei Metal Head gasket set 87mm @ 1.2mm

1 mm oil restrictor 

Extra cam cover baffles.

Nitto Oil pump

6 boost exhaust manifold

Turbosmart 50mm wastegate.

Garret gt3582r, .70 comp .62 rear

ID 1000 injectors on HKS fuel rail.

Vipec ECU.


So it leaves me with a few options, 


1. Find a block, get it machined straight to 87.. and throw in a new set of rings / bearings to suit. (pending current condition of pistons / rods / crank )

2. Find a block, machine to 86.5 and obtain new slugs n rings and use existing rods ect ect.

3. Find one already built.


Guess its time too do some number crunching. 






th_20160606_153925_zpsua0ebclr.jpg Doesn't look like much but this crack is just above the oil feed to the turbo.


#71 mspecr


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Posted 25 June 2016 - 08:11 PM

Hit a milestone, shes finally up on the rotisserie   :D  And it doesn't look all that bad from under neigh surprisingly.  










#72 Sirpent


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Posted 26 June 2016 - 06:31 AM

Nicely done, 


Welcome to the twist and turn club ;)


Now the fun begins.

Edited by Sirpent, 26 June 2016 - 06:31 AM.

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#73 CBR Jeff

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Posted 26 June 2016 - 07:45 AM

We'll Mark that will make life easier.

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#74 mspecr


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Posted 20 August 2016 - 09:07 PM

Sorry its been well over due for a update. Been away for work months *literally* at a time, however perks for being away you get to order things and its Christmas when you return !


So to begin.

Under body items powder coated.
















Over all I'm quite happy for the quality of work, coverage was even done into some of deep areas like the hollow sections of the front sub frame and rear suspension arms, which i didn't expect to be done but they did. Very minor clean up is required in some areas ie. tapping threads and removing left over masking tape.. but overall this saved me hours of work is well worth the $ spent.


After cleaning a few items up. On with some new bushes.




th_20160724_122641_zpskrtaykfy.jpg mmm lube...
















th_20160611_154248_zpsjerlgwon.jpg comparison picture from before blasting and powdercoating..




Sent my bolts away to get re zinced.. $80 bucks up to 20 kgs.. for me it sounded like a bargain ! till i added items up off the Z that only came to 6 kgs... Sooo... I managed to scrape together all the loose bolts i can find from prior jobs and even items that was not related but " might be later " to add to the pile.


Again this is a batch process,, some are expected not to be perfect when finished, prior to doing this its worth taking pictures of selected groups of items to help you sort out your collection.. also grab a few tackle boxes / organiser cases.. you will need them.
















th_20160820_184856_zpsjo3aw1wf.jpg ones that didn't make it..


The before pics.














I did order some std height king springs. The rear set was fine however I got a front set that suit a holden.... *grumbles*... so that had to be sent back, the correct replacements have a 3 week lead time... :(




th_20160806_084731_zpscby9kfaz.jpg ... the culprit 


Should of powder coated the originals in yellow..








#75 mspecr


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Posted 16 September 2016 - 12:50 AM

Only a minor update.

I managed to score a bargain via gumtree, one rb26 block and crank for $50... I didn't believe it at first, so I quickly called and told the bloke ill grab it straight away, For this price expect issues.. and sure enough, melted 5 / 6 pistons and 2 / 7 spun mains.

I was only after a block anyways i grabbed them both.

Taking it home and pulling apart, I discovered it is a n1 block (24u cast) loaded with a long nose crank - winnings !

Cleaning it all down, doing a very attack with a die grinder, I went straight to Harris Engines Osborne Park.

So explaining what I " wanted " and then translating to what they will do, the following work will be done.


Block decked / torque plate honed, (to suit new forge 86.5mm slugs )

Line bore / hone, ( using ARP mains for this one )

Replacing core plugs.

Oil Pump drive to be replaced with a new Oil Pump Drive collar. 

Polish of journals. 

Rotating Balance. ( inc Harmonic Balancer and Clutch assembly )


The old crank I brought also to see if that is salvageable, everything inc mag particle. 









th_20160914_140330_zps1mxkckqi.jpg Lot of scale came out of it ..






th_20160914_140050_zpsuvzz4kvz.jpg The worst of the lot, a hone alone ain't going to fix this. 








th_20160915_095404_zpsikdofs1h.jpg still scaly ..


th_20160914_154536_zps3g3lgsa6.jpg hard life but its seen better days, this drive is getting replaced.


th_20160914_152732_zps7cqeoisc.jpg The Nitto oil drive held up really well to the abuse, all thou you can just barely see the contact pad, easy less then a mm.




th_20160915_091902_zpsvtqr3ncj.jpg quick cleanup. taper the drain holes to suit the gasket, more will come later. 








Roughly a week- two week turn around, and that's taking their time. I was hoping for a month to help save room in the garage... thou I guess not.

The head I will get around to a full tear down later, hopefully it shouldn't need much work as long it comes up flat, maybe a quick lap we shall see. 




#76 mspecr


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Posted 17 September 2016 - 12:50 AM

So after reading " AK builds " epic post on restoring his fuel tank, was only fitting that I followed suit.

Condition of mine well was solid sludge, and crusty remains. The gunk that came out when draining it originally was not healthy..

Following the instructions that came with the POR15 Fuel tank repair kit, I only did a small test with just the fuel sender with great results, mind you some manual scrubbing with a small brush went a long way. All up prob's total 3 hrs playing around with this thing.

Fuel tank will definitely take a lot longer to break down the amount of sludge. 










th_20160916_163457_zpstp0ohhmz.jpg It looked really bad from here, was seized good.




th_20160916_163518_zpsbuoigvdm.jpg soaked in marine clean for a good 20 min.




th_20160916_171148_zpsp9mknyer.jpg use a tooth brush along the contacts and resistive track, be weary of the fine wire that's from the sender lid to the track.


th_20160916_175716_zpsdtbuu0qy.jpg  this cover plate can be removed by untwisting the top bent lip where it pass's through, gaining access to the resistive track


th_20160916_172307_zpsxvu3ou5a.jpg clear the junk behind the resistive track and its mounting pad.






th_20160916_172954_zpscsvnshbw.jpg check the range, 10.5 to 93 ohms, seams to work great. 





#77 mspecr


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Posted 14 October 2016 - 08:52 PM

Got around to assembling all four hubs, parts where taking up to space so had to start making room. All new bearings, seals, brake cylinders / pistons. Didn't have a tap for the m10x1.25 so just fine blade through a spare bolt hanging around to help remove excess powder coat. Struts assembled with Stagg shocks, shock boots, and wrapped in king spring - std height.


Front Caliper Pistons : Protex #: DB2014

Rear Cylinders : Dorman #: W96878 + W96879


th_20160921_125951_zpsxisstlcd.jpg th_20160921_125816_zpso215fmhh.jpg th_20160921_131211_zpsvchllyzm.jpg


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th_20160922_132101_zpspizfmzzo.jpg th_20160922_132309_zpsw2dl3kjh.jpg th_20160922_132545_zpsvprosuq4.jpg


th_20160922_132719_zpsm2gjl1pd.jpg th_20160922_133231_zpspc6sokaq.jpg th_20160922_133318_zpsqruec7uy.jpg


th_20160922_133344_zps2nsylxh6.jpg th_20160922_134030_zpsoeg2ofpe.jpg th_20160922_143145_zpsxhfqplyh.jpg


th_20160922_144149_zpsgxby0lsc.jpg th_20160922_143502_zpsxvig0b0v.jpg th_20160922_143415_zpsokmackyk.jpg


th_20160922_143409_zpsgwsg6tjv.jpg th_20160922_145623_zpsrt9bvxa8.jpg th_20160822_132403_zps5yt9rguw.jpg


th_20160822_132455_zpsgbm7thxl.jpg th_20160822_131145_zps3r0yabtv.jpg old badly pitted pistons. 



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#78 mspecr


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Posted 24 October 2016 - 09:50 AM

Fuel tank update. 

Its been roughly 3 weeks since I filled the tanked with a water + marine clean mix and the results turned out great. 

The 1st load which pretty much broke down a good majority of it to my surprise, a second batch is now in to soak for a another 2-3 weeks. I was contemplating running a small pump to help circulate the mixture around, but this seams to work just fine giving the long time frame the mixture has to work with.


th_20161010_161116_zps3udkqeeg.jpg th_20161015_104442_zpsltjqd8hu.jpg


Door Hinges,

New pins and bushes, these are pretty straight forward just make note of there orientation, smack the old ones out, clean up the surfaces until your a human pin cushion, install the new pin and bushes, repeat times x4.


th_20161020_112805_zpspwk7hsme.jpg th_20161020_112157_zpsdcysm8mh.jpg th_20161020_145301_zpswdinrc95.jpg


th_20161020_115117_zps1bc6cecq.jpg th_20161020_140857_zpsrffulisk.jpg th_20161020_145315_zpswhx0cj4i.jpg





#79 mspecr


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Posted 27 October 2016 - 06:08 PM

Vintage Air,

As A/C was priority for this build I settled with a vintage air Compac Gen II unit., PeterAllen was kind enough to take the time out and give me a good guide and explain his experiences with his install.

For the moment its only the fabrication of mounting points, reason being when the shell gets blasted and primed it should be a bolt in affair, this also helps in determining what to seal up / penetrations I require for the firewall.


There was a fair few versions of how this was mounted, I ended up with a 90' bracket that is welded under where the wiper motor would of be and simple straight alu bar for the hangers. Here it cleared the steel frame of the dash, the glove box and gained access to the original defogger vents.

It's worth while mentioning most installs I found on line the blower fan is on the right hand side, - mainly US builds, - In my opinion this unit will fit more easily as you got direct access to the top vents ,I simply didn't like the idea of the fan near my feet.. a noisy fan can be a passenger side issue..... 


The area behind the unit is more then enough to hide the water valve, hoses, wiring ect. Tight... but doable, the original vent that enters the cowl area was also chopped out and sealed. 


There is still the center vents to connect up, which was used the original air box, so some sort of manifold will have to be done there, the side vents can be either directly connected to the vintage unit or again some common manifold like the original setup uses.





th_20161021_125102_zpscaphoepz.jpg th_20161021_125110_zpslcrqbcm8.jpg th_20161021_125118_zpslid1uyyg.jpg


th_20161027_140336_zpspemqtfaj.jpg th_20161027_142133_zps1fndueke.jpg th_20161027_103744_zpsxjtt4j7b.jpg


th_20161027_103301_zpsmr8kzme9.jpg th_20161026_112120_zpsfvqqqrlm.jpg th_20161026_155557_zpsy8boosgw.jpg


th_20161026_155702_zpsss6ec8lo.jpg th_20161026_155547_zpsigasltfl.jpg th_20161027_102313_zpsqwrmzxin.jpg


th_20161026_154636_zpsfau63s0i.jpg th_20161026_161630_zpspbhbvdxc.jpg th_20161026_155831_zpskxwjq4vh.jpg


AC bulkhead fittings should be fine as there is ample room for them to poke through, only thing I need is to find a RB z to see where the firewall to block / head clearance is for the heater connections. 

Edited by mspecr, 27 October 2016 - 06:10 PM.

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#80 mspecr


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Posted 29 November 2016 - 08:10 PM

Got in touch with another member on here which i cant thank enough for taking the time out and handling the barrage of question I dished out. I originally went to gain info on engine placement and find clear areas in the firewall, this is for the engine loom heater and A/C lines, however after seeing it I ended up leaving with more questions then answers....  now I have things to add such as power steering, roll cages, Porsche brakes ,,, thou this will be for stage II of the build.


Definitely helps in seeing what your trying to build that's in front of you.


th_20161030_130534_zpsaibtnah4.jpg th_20161030_130529_zpsrl6oji6x.jpg th_20161030_130541_zpsbp4bhsnb.jpg


th_20161030_130537_zpsirlzqwbn.jpg th_20161030_130545_zpsesop8b3l.jpg th_20161030_130616_zpsms27rk4v.jpg



Back onto the firewall I managed to get a R33 gts-t Booster + master installed, inc the r33 clutch master.

Now I could of left the original 260z clutch one in place, this would of saved me the hassle of modding the pedal box to include a extra backing plate for the clutch, however i must of misread this post as I had somehow obtained the idea that there was a clearance issue with the Clutch M hitting the booster..... and that's why I went with he r33 version. I even offset the booster away of the clutch master 2 - 3 mm...  


Note : 260z C/M has a vertical mount, the R33 is 45' off set.. and a patrol gu is 90' horizontal. 


Overall this wasn't required at the end clutch M/C mods wasn't really required, but its done now.

I used this http://www.viczcar.c...aster-cylinder/


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Got around to pulling the last batch of items on the car apart, which either will be sent away for powder coating or getting zinc dipped, things like the window regs, window wiper links, door locking mechs, handbrake assembly, pedals and pedal box, the dash metal frame ect.

One thing that surprised the me was the state of the wiper motor.. after all these years hiding in that black bag it came out flawless, not sure if it works thou.. 


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  • ryanmac likes this

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