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Double Checking The Timing On My L24 Rebuild


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#21 PB260Z

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Posted 05 April 2017 - 09:27 PM

Check..... direction of rotation is correct (anti-clockwise). Firing order 153624.

Great advice - very easy mistake to make

#22 Enzo

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Posted 05 April 2017 - 09:48 PM

Ok, The picture of the underside of the rotor button shows only a piece of metal on one side. The rotors usually have a metal section that presses into the button with a piece coming up on both sides and this locks the button in place. Does yours fit on facing either direction. The side with the missing piece should line up with the flat on the shaft. If it goes on both ways it should be replaced. I will post a picture shortly.

Attached Thumbnails

  • Rotor Button.JPG

Edited by Enzo, 05 April 2017 - 10:16 PM.


#23 Cozza

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:27 AM

Haven't pulled a dizzy apart for a couple years but is it possible to assemble the inner and outer shaft (mechanical advance area) of the dizzy 180' out??

#24 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:28 AM

same design - and the same brand as on my photos

1. the shaft has a bevel on it - so it looks like the letter "D" from the top

2. the metal spring in the photo simply keeps the rotor against the shaft. the flat protrusion then slides into the bevelled section of the shaft. only goes on one way.

i went to burson and the bosch replacement has a different design, but also goes one way . the same way

can anyone identify the distributor ? the only difference between stock 240 and my one seems to be that the condenser is on the inside, not outside

the only remaining questions is - what side of the shaft is the bottom slot cut? there are only 2 options as you look at the bottom of the shaft

a. the small halfmoon is on the SAME side as the bevel eg the flat side of the "D"

b. it is on the OPPOSITE side



#25 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:29 AM

i don;t think so - see comments above. the shaft is one piece with the slots and bevels cut it into it. or at least that's what i remember



#26 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:31 AM

http://www.jrdemers....butor/shaft.gif

 note 280, not 240



#27 Roady

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 09:09 AM

Not something simple like the rotor button installed backwards?

Disregard - just read you can only install one way

Edited by Roady, 06 April 2017 - 09:14 AM.


#28 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 01:16 PM

this is the closest description to my one

unfortuntely the guys does not describe how he fixes it

 

http://www.classiczc...oil-pump-shaft/



#29 RLY240

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 05:49 PM

The distributor shaft isn't one solid piece all the way through it's actually two pieces to allow the mechanical advance to work.  It's quite possible that someone has dissasembled it and rotated the top section (part 9 below) 180 degrees on assembly.  If this is the case you can either pull it apart and make it right or just move the leads on the cap and pretend it didn't happen, this won't affect the engine at all.

Roger

 

distributor%2079-81zx.gif


Edited by RLY240, 06 April 2017 - 05:50 PM.

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#30 Enzo

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 07:07 PM

I think Roger has sorted it out. It looks nice and clean inside the Distributor and when enlarged it looks like the screws on the sides have been removed. You said it came off an engine that didn't work. I would say someone disassembled the distributor and just reassembled it with the Rotor shaft assembly facing the wrong way. Either pull it apart to reassemble correctly or change the leads to suit if you want it running quickly.

Good call Roger.



#31 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 07:07 PM

this could be the genius answer i'm looking for

http://atlanticz.ca/...uild/index.html



#32 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 07:08 PM

going to the garage now, pics to follow



#33 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:25 PM

taken it apart and yes, that's the answer . the shaft is split in the middle just like the picture.

however, with this car, one link leads to another

looks like the springs are different, so someone has replaced one or the other. i'm sure there's precise science involved here, but no one seems to sells the precise items

unless someone has a better idea, off to bunings tomorrow to have a look at something that looks similar

https://www.bunnings...tension-springs



#34 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:28 PM

yes great call roger



#35 RLY240

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:43 PM

The total mechanical advance is set by the weights (they should be stamped with the number) and the springs set the rate at which they advance or where they start advancing in the rev range, soft springs come on earlier. If you replace the springs with something too stiff then the mechanical advance will never kick in.
Roger

#36 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:47 PM

unless you know where to get set of brand spanking new springs, this is the only plan i have. no point getting used ones as they're likely to be buggered on a 45 year old car ( as one of these is). there are a couple of photos on the net, so i'll have just have to apporximate the thickness of the wire and the length



#37 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 08:52 PM

check this out! are they meant to be different?

that doesn' t make any sense, but it came from a reliable site

http://www.datsunpar...ectrical-firing

http://www.datsunpar...ets2/2730.1.jpg

see the long hook? the weight just slides until it its the spring and its very stiff compared to the other side !



#38 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 09:10 PM

and more

http://www.classiczc...-fsm-conundrum/

HOWEVER i dont have the circular hook - they're the same on both side, but some has defintely has messed with this becuase the tangs have been slightly bent. from what this article, it seems to behave correctly eg one hold the weight tight, and the other lets it flop out

some sort of a bloody analogue computer ?



#39 RLY240

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 09:11 PM

I'm no expert and I've only seen roughly matched springs. Having a weak and a strong spring of different lengths such as your photo would give a graph that ramped up quickly to a mid point and then take a lot more revs to get up to full advance.
To get it right you first need to know what advance graph you want and then choose the right springs to get there (and have a dizzy dyno to measure the result).
Or you could do what most of us do and chuck in whatever you have but I think you can still buy the stock springs from Nissan.
Roge

#40 aircobra

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Posted 06 April 2017 - 09:18 PM

Nissan Part No.: 22110E4602

SPRING-GOVERNOR

show up NLAs






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