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How Easily Repaired Is This Rust?


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#21 Dionysus

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:26 PM

Main concern is the front of the car, and what it will take to repair it cost wise. I always planned on spending some cash on it but don't want to spend a huge amount in 1 area.


I'm going back to see it again in the morning.

#22 gav240z

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:35 PM

What is the asking price of the car? Is it a 260z 2 seater or 2+2? It looks like it was originally green and not metallic red the current colour. So anything can be hiding under previous paint work (not to say it's bad, just that you don't know what prep work went into the current paint).

 

Radiator support looks like it will be worse than anticipated, lower radiator support may be rotten inside judging by radiator photos and can be expensive to repair. Getting hard to find a good replacement for a 260z (240z and 260z radiator supports are different and can vary even by year!).

 

Lower sill rust bubble could mean more trouble in lower dog legs and sills. The rubber bung above it is not standard so could be there due to previous rust preventative coatings being applied and squirted into the area?

 

Photos of floors are hard to judge, usually a thick hardened sound deadener is lying on top of the floors and only when you lift it up do you find the true extent of the damage. The debris and crap in 1 of the floor photos suggests possible problems with rust holes in the floor, not sure if you got a look underneath? Depends on how bad it is as to weather or not you'll need to replace them entirely or be able to get away with patching only?

 

Surface rust near tail lights isn't too bad but could be indicative of problems under the rear beaver panel. Although mostly looks like surface rust from the photo. 

 

You really need to remove battery from tray to see under it, feel under it in the wheel arch area and knock it with your hand to see if it's solid. You can't tell from the photo supplied...

 

Quarter window rust isn't an issue, cheap to replace...But often when removing them you find rust in that area in the body itself...

 

How was the rear slam panel in the hatch area? The tail gate did it have rust in the bottom of it? Look underneath? Doors? Dog legs are almost always gone...



#23 gav240z

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:43 PM

Main concern is the front of the car, and what it will take to repair it cost wise. I always planned on spending some cash on it but don't want to spend a huge amount in 1 area.


I'm going back to see it again in the morning.

 

Honestly your expectations and reality of what you'll likely find on a car like this if you tear it down for a full repaint seem to be quite far apart. I don't know what a "huge amount" is to you but you could easily spend $10-$20k on the body work of an S30z restoration alone. Depending on who does the work and how much you do yourself + how extensive the rust is.

 

If I had known what I was up against when buying my S30z's in the beginning I may never have bought them, so I hesitate to be fully honest with what may lie ahead of you, sometimes ignorance is bliss.

 

If you expect to find a lot more rust, you'll be pleased if you find less when you do go to make her immaculate but if you expect to find only rust in the areas you know about then you're going to be heart broken when you discover botched repairs here and there from previous owners.

 

Current prices of 260z's lag behind 240z's and make them less viable for dumping large amounts of coin into restorations. You would do it for the love of the car, not return on capital outlay.

 

It all comes down to what you pay for it, what you want to spend on it and if you want to spend the time and effort getting it right, vs buying an already restored example. Which is getting harder to find at prices below $30k these days.



#24 Dionysus

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:45 PM

Asking price is 15k
They all technically had 4 seats? Or only the 2+2?

The rails underneath the car seemed ok. Nothing dented and I couldn't seem anything bad.

Slam panel had a tiny bit of rust only.
Tail gate good.

How do I check the dogleg? You can't get in there.

#25 Dionysus

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:48 PM

From a financial point of view Is buying a 260z for 15k and spending 10k on it a waste or is 25k or 30k a wise investment?

Personal view I'm after really.

#26 Dionysus

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:49 PM

Also owner seems to think it was always red like the engine bay

#27 gav240z

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:51 PM

Only the 2+2 had 4 seats hence the math equation :).

 

The dog leg might be tricky to check because if it's bogged up it will look ok on the outside but once you strip it back you may find bog instead of welded in metal repairs. You can look at it from inside the rear wheel and look at the lower area there to see how solid it is, push it with your finger down around that area and see if it's solid or if it crumbles with rust.

 

Also check underneath the car and feel behind it, give it a squeeze, the trained eye can usually tell if paint looks odd in certain areas but failing that a fridge magnet on the area that doesn't stick may indicate no metal behind the paint. Car detailers have paint depth gauges that can also reveal potential bog.

 

Take as many photos as you can and come back to Sydney on your return flight and have a think about the car when your not over there and excited about it. I think at this stage you still don't know enough about the cars to make a really informed decision on the purchase but.. I realise I sound like a Debbie Downer also.

 

$15k is quite a bit for a 2+2 that needs rust repair work. Possibly extensive...



#28 gav240z

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Posted 12 January 2016 - 11:55 PM

Also owner seems to think it was always red like the engine bay

 

That may be true, the seat rail supports looked green in your photos but that may be normal (I'm not always 100% on the finer details of later S30z's, especially 2+2s). The rear tail light area was a burgundy red like colour and that was a factory 260z colour.

 

 

From a financial point of view Is buying a 260z for 15k and spending 10k on it a waste or is 25k or 30k a wise investment?

Personal view I'm after really.

 

If I was your financial planner I'd say you're nuts, as an S30z enthusiast it depends how you view that investment. As an investment in fun the S30z is possibly 1 of the best classic cars out there for the price. I'm biased of course. Restored 2+2s tend to struggle at higher prices to sell. However they are too becoming more and more rare and if you own the car for say 5-10 years it may not be a bad investment from a "get your money back perspective".

 

However 25-30K will buy you an excellent restored car (2+2) and could be worth waiting out for.

 

The majority of people though prefer the 2 seaters over the 2+2s which has always kept 2+2 values somewhat muted...



#29 Dionysus

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 12:05 AM

Forgot to mention the doors seem ok but again have been painted so can't be 100%.

If I was to spend another 10k restoring I wouldn't be too upset.

I would try get it cheaper if I could.

What would be an ok price you think?

I'll upload a picture of the outside of the car.

#30 Dionysus

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 12:08 AM

Uploaded 3 external shots, 1 one the spray in process. Might be in the recent page

Edited by Dionysus, 13 January 2016 - 12:10 AM.


#31 Dionysus

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 09:35 AM

Ended up taking your advice to head home and think about it.

I plan to make a list of repair and head to me local repair shop to get their opinion on cost and difficulties.

From there we'll see how we go.

In the mean time I'll keep searching

#32 gav240z

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 10:35 AM

The external shots looked ok, car looked clean. However it looks like the area where the rust bubble on the passenger side door (lower sill) was painted not that long ago. The fact it's bubbling again indicates that perhaps there is rust in the area that wasn't fully dealt with.

 

As a car you can hop in and enjoy and slowly improve for $15k it might not be a bad car, but you could be dealing with covered over rust also.

 

I think heading home to think about it and write up a list and get some repair opinions and rough quotes is a good idea. It can be easy to get caught up in the excitement of a new car and see through the flaws that may bite you later.

 

It can't hurt to look at other cars also to get a feel for the condition / value of each.



#33 PB260Z

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 08:17 PM

It can't hurt to look at other cars also to get a feel for the condition / value of each.

Hi

I agree, do your research (which you are) then apply that knowledge to looking at a few cars before you buy one.
Very rarely is the first car you see the best one.

Good cars do come along, you just need to be patient.



Cheers

PB

Edited by PB260Z, 13 January 2016 - 08:21 PM.


#34 PB260Z

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 08:21 PM

Hi

One more thing

Think about how the $15K car you just looked compared to this recent sale.
http://www.viczcar.c...5-speed-manual/

Cheers

#35 gav240z

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 08:37 PM

Sadly Lynton's car is the exception not rule when it comes to 2+2's on the market. But if you're patient enough you can find a car like it.



#36 Dionysus

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 08:53 PM

That looks like a fantastic car,especially for the money. There's a red one in Sydney for 25k that looks completed.

Might contact the seller and see if I can see what a 260 at the other end of the market looks like.

Appreciate all the help.

#37 Dionysus

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 08:55 PM

Fun part is hunting one down I suppose.

#38 PB260Z

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 09:00 PM

That looks like a fantastic car,especially for the money. There's a red one in Sydney for 25k that looks completed.
Might contact the seller and see if I can see what a 260 at the other end of the market looks like.
Appreciate all the help.

Cars where someone else has done all the work, usually present better value than one you do.
Just make sure that there is documented photogrphic evidence if buying a car someone else did.

Good luck, enjoy the hunt.

Edited by PB260Z, 13 January 2016 - 09:00 PM.


#39 AK

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 10:06 PM

It does have some great curb appeal I will give it that, no doubt it will need to stripped completely back to bare metal every where - that will be 1-2k exercise alone without fixing anything - it has enough rust coming through to say the respray was just a patch up over the old paint job and no real rust eradication was done. Hey if it drove well with no bad noises it probably worth 10k - 12 at most. It all really up to you - just my 10cents without seeing it in the flesh.

Cheers AK



#40 CroS13

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Posted 13 January 2016 - 10:16 PM

No one who has done a PROPER restoration on a 2+2 would be crazy enough to let it go for 15k. because it would cost at least double that to do a legit restoration.

That car looks pretty, but that paint job, its a 1-2k bog and flog deal. You would need to strip it back to metal to see how bad it really is.

And 10k wont get you far in regards to restoring it. You might be up for more than that in rust repairs alone and then paint and body.

 

Personally i wouldn't pay any more than 7k for that car,  but id rather save another 10-15k, then spend 25-30k for a good one when it comes up.

Rudi.

 


 






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