grimlynsan Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) Hi all, Apologies for the potentially dumb question. Just want some confirmation before I part with my $$$! I want to buy myself a set of adjustable outer tie rods so that I can correct my bumpsteer issues (lowered car, big wide wheels). I’m going to get the ones from T3 https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/outer-tie-rods-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z but they come in two configurations, one with 1xLH and 1xRH thread, and one with 2xRH thread. It says to order the one that matches your inner tie rods. It also says that they stopped making the LH thread inner tie rods in the 80s, so anyone that has had them replaced since then (no idea – only bought the car in 2003) will most likely have the need for 2x RH configuration. 3 questions: 1. Does anyone know if there is a way that a mechanical novice such as myself, could determine the type I have, just by looking (I have a jack so can get under there easy enough)? 2. Would you recommend just getting the 2x RH so that if I ever need a new inner tie rod end in the future, it will fit my fancy new parts? 3. I have a spare s30 steering rack (complete). At least one of the inner tie rods on this rack MUST be RH thread (by my novice logic). This being the case, can I take the one of that and put it on (should one of the ones on my car be LH thread?)? I believe the spare rack is from a 240z, so I’m essentially asking if it will all bolt up the same (I have a 77 260 2+2), regardless of the origin of the rack and whether I use the LHS or RHS inner tie rod, so long as it is RH thread it will fit right?… Thanks for any guidance as always! Lee Edited September 14, 2015 by grimlynsan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozza Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 You could get under the car and loosen the outer tie rod lock nuts to determine if they are right/right or right/left hand threaded. I like the idea of reducing bump steer but I'm not sure I would go with T3 tie rod option, as they require drilling out the steering knuckle preventing you from going back to original fitments if you change your mind. Also, using a rod end fitting without a dust boot, I imagine they will wear quickly due to road grime getting into the joint. Interested to hear other peoples thoughts. Cheers Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GongZ Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) ...1. Does anyone know if there is a way that a mechanical novice such as myself, could determine the type I have, just by looking (I have a jack so can get under there easy enough)? ... Hello Lee, I see that you are a self-proclaimed "mechanical novice" - so I felt compelled to say - Do not get underneath a car when it is raised on a jack! You are taking a huge risk if you do. You need to buy or borrow some axle stands or car ramps. Other members will hopefully chime in here with advice on where to put the jack and the axle stands (I have found differing opinions on this site). You should also put the car into first gear (manual) or Park (auto), have the handbrake on and chock the rear wheels. A lot of people also highly recommend laying some wheels under the car as a back up - in case it manages to fall off the axle stands or ramps. Cheers Safety Man Edited September 14, 2015 by GongZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimlynsan Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Regarding dust, I was going to buy a rubber rose joint boot. Regarding jacks, yes, I have stands and am not that much of a n00b though appreciate the need to communicate the message just in case. Well done, Safety Man. I'll jack it up, using appropriate precautions, and see which way they go. I'm still leaning towards just ordering the 2xrh and canibilising the spare rack if it fits. Just for future proofing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GongZ Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 (edited) Good to hear! As I always say - "it's better to be Safety Man than Sorry Man". Edited September 14, 2015 by GongZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat2kman Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 The correct terminology for these s "Rack ends" Yes you can take bits from the spare rack, but you must use, f threaded to Right Hand, the correct outer arm. IIRC 280ZX's had both sides as RH threaded, on the ZX's that were fitted with steering racks. An ssue with trying to lft the outer tie rod, relative to the steering arm ( thats attached to the casting at back f wheel hub) s the excess forces that it can be subjected to, as its "force moment" is further away from the arm, and s in "single shear" and can fail, which gives a no steering capabilty ssue! Better to use a bump steer raising blck, r a bump steer rasing blck with shortened integral steering arm. This will give you LCA's in the angled down status, which gets the cars geometry back clse to standard with lowered suspension. The outer tie rod joint s retained and s bolted as per normal like the stock steering arm. It's kind f like easier to show you n person, how it all works,. What is it, that is leading you to thinking you have altering steering due to "bump" md corner, ie "bump steer" ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimlynsan Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Reminds me of that joke. What do you do when you see a disabled space man. Park in it man. If you didn't use jack stands that is! Jason I am having the full T3 setup installed at the same time with adj LCAs and caster rods. I have the RCAs already but I still get the bump steer and it of course changes the roll centre which I'm told is undersirable. Thanks for confirming about using the other rack though. I'll order the double RH thread kit and if I have a LH one on the existing rack I'll steal one from the spare. As for going back to standard in the future, I can't see why I'd do that. Is there something I should know? As always thanks for chiming in guys. Clarky93 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozza Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 You got me thinking about other options to minimise bump steer and to extend steering arms in order to get more camber and came across these threads. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/808-bumpsteer-elimination/?fromsearch=1 http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/5622-custom-tie-rods-that-fit-standard-suspension/?do=findComment&comment=160374 Not sure they are of interest to you but might be worth a read. Good luck which ever way you go. Mick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimlynsan Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 Good links Mick. I've already read these two and in fact the reason I have a spare steering rack is because it is in fact attached to an entire spare x member I purchased with the intention of one day relocating the LCA mounting holes for this very mod! However, from what I've been reading, there is no advantage to moving the points AND getting adj outer tie rod ends and as such, I decided to go the adj tie rod ends instead of the redrilling since it seems easier, less fabrication (which I'd be paying someone to do) and also means I can adjust the positioning and am not 'locked in' to wherever I relocate the hole too. As for the SW Motorsport ones, I just emailed them asking for a price. They are usually pretty pricey but hopefully I am surprised as I'd rather buy in Australia from both a patriotism and speed of delivery perspective. I have made a WTB thread though in case anyone has some sitting on a shelf they want rid of. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mossy Posted September 14, 2015 Share Posted September 14, 2015 I bought the nagisa auto ones from Japan http://www.nagisa-auto.com/products/nissan/gc10_s30_130z.html although I still haven't fitted them to my car yet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimlynsan Posted September 14, 2015 Author Share Posted September 14, 2015 I've seen them as well Mossy, but they are over $523 AUD at today's exchange rate, whereas the T3 ones are only $196 AUD at today's rate. If anyone has a set for around the $200 mark I will buy them cause the car is booked in the shop in 2 weeks, and the T3 ones wont get here in time! I'll be taking it to the shop in 2 weeks anyway to have all the other adjustable bits - just trying to avoid taking it for a second time when I get the adj outer tie rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grimlynsan Posted September 21, 2015 Author Share Posted September 21, 2015 Ordered 2x RH thread from T3. Cannot wait till these bad boys arrive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter t Posted September 22, 2015 Share Posted September 22, 2015 (edited) Go to Whitte's build thread and you will see all as they have already done all you want to do. DADSON RACING. TT AERO Edited September 22, 2015 by peter t Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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