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Hellfire's assorted mistakes


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#1 HELLFIRE!

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 10:47 PM

I have 3 Zs, am currently restoring the one in my ava. Shes a 1975 260Z (2 seater) that needs a bit of loving. I intend to keep her fairly original with exhaust and carbies being the only mods.

The 2nd Z is my daily driver, shes a 1976 260Z (2+2) and only realy needs some panel work and a freshen up paint job. This will happen when I finish the first one. No I'm serious stop laughing, I mean it!

The 3rd Z is laying down her life so that the other two may live, she is a selfless sweetheart that is going beyond the call of duty.

I have entitled this thread Hellfire's assorted mistakes because I'm no mechanic and will more than likely share more mistakes than triumphs.

Todays effort I believe to be a triumph but I suspect that you lot will share with me why it's not, and I am grateful for all knowledge that is offered in a helpful manner.

Today I decided that I would have a go at restoring one of my factory alloys. I have 14 to choose from so if I made a mess of it I wouldn't be devastated.

So this is what my starting point is...

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As you can see the wheel hasn't been polished in a while but it is not beyond redemption. The recessed areas have been colour coded to match the Z it came from. So after about 20mins of swearing and sweating The wheel looks like this...

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As you can see it came up all right but could be better. So next comes the repaint, I was originally going to mask of the wheel and pressure pack spray the recessed parts. After messing about with the masking tape for 10 mins and getting no where fast I decided to turn to plan B, hand painting with a fine brush. It was tedious but I think it's OK for a first coat.

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When I have repainted the hub haps and installed the wheel, I think the black will contrast the shine of the alloy to highlight it's brilliance. When this is done I will post another pic.





#2 Toecutter

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Posted 21 January 2008 - 11:24 PM

Much better with the black centers. I remember using a $20 alloy buffing bit from Bunnings some years ago on my rocker cover. I was quite impressed witht he results. Might be worth looking at if you want a really shiny finish. From emeory also remember talk of using some sort of clear coat to retain the shine on the alloy.

Sulio

#3 HELLFIRE!

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 12:09 AM

Will definitely check out that buffing bit. A friend of mine used to always say, "Work smarter, not harder"

Thanks for the compliment. :)

#4 Zeddophile

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 05:35 PM

Out of curiousity, what were you using to polish them up?  My simmons on my alfa are pretty good, but have a few spots of corrosion type stuff on them, and it looks like you got rid of all that...

#5 sco_aus

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 10:51 PM

I was just thinking the same thing, I had a go at my simmons today and found a little bit of oxidisation on the polished outer lip.  I am using the fabric stuff that has the damp stuff in it from the yellow tin (Technical stuff here :P).  Works really well, but not well enough for that sort of thing.

#6 Toecutter

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 11:19 PM

Would steelo scratch the surface? I'm pretty sure I've used it on my bars years ago for surface rust.

Sulio

#7 HELLFIRE!

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Posted 22 January 2008 - 11:36 PM

The product I used was "Autosol Metal Polish"

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It's a paste that you rub with a soft cloth. You then wipe off the excess with a different, clean cloth. Apparently it also works on fiberglass.

Since it is suggested that a Soft cloth be used, I would think twice about using steel wool.

Took Toecutter's advise and mechanized the operation. I tried to find a polishing bit but my local hardware store didn't have one. I ended up settling on a 5 inch diameter buffing pad which just fits between the outer rim and the central hub.

#8 620Z

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Posted 23 January 2008 - 08:03 AM

I struggled away for years polishing my mags with that fabric polishing stuff in a yellow tin. Takes ages. Anyway one day I asked my brother how he kept his mags looking like new. He bought from bunnings a polishing kit for about $10-$15.00. This included a couple of fabric connectors that go on a drill bit and some chalk all in one pack. Fantastic. I now use this. 10minutes on each corner and then I still finish off with my old fabric wool type stuff. Now my mags are kept pretty good all the time.

#9 sco_aus

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Posted 23 January 2008 - 12:45 PM

hmm, will give this a shot  me thinks.

#10 620Z

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Posted 23 January 2008 - 03:05 PM

Yeah works awesome. My mags look like new. Bunnings has a 1.5-2" polishing bit so it fits into the tight corners. I put some race tape around any metal bits on the drill in case it ran off and scratched the alloy. Unfortunately after a few years the odd stone chips or scuff marks didn't come out after polishing with a rag for hours. Plus my bloody fingers went into spasims. Ha. Anyway this did the trick for me.

#11 Toecutter

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Posted 23 January 2008 - 04:06 PM

The Bunnings kit is what I used only hard part was polishing the parts in between the letters on the rocker cover. I suppose wheels are much easier as they generally have much less hard spots to get in to.

#12 Lightmaster240z

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Posted 23 January 2008 - 04:14 PM

THANK YOU YOU JUST STOP ME FROM PAINT MY RIM BLUE
SADLY I HAVE ALSO STARTED THE ENDLESS CLEANING TASK WITH AUTOSOL IT GOOD BUT USE IT SPARINGLY
REGARDS
BRUCE 

#13 Zeddophile

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Posted 23 January 2008 - 05:02 PM

Since it is suggested that a Soft cloth be used, I would think twice about using steel wool.


Steel wool will definitely leave scratches everywhere on your average alloy wheel, especially any kind of polished finish.

#14 HELLFIRE!

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Posted 24 January 2008 - 02:32 AM

Todays fun and games involved Kick panels.

step 1 remove panels
step 2 paint panels
step 3 re install panels........Simple aint it?,.......Not when I'm involved!

Removal:

Passenger side came out easily as there were no rubber lugs on this side!

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Drivers side started off well, fuse box unscewed and moved to one side, bonnet release bolts came out without any fuss, and then there was that electrical stuff above it. The first scew closest to the door was simple but the one on the fire wall side was impossible (for me) to get to. This calls for my trusty/bodgy friend "Plan B". So I masked the area up redy to spray it in place. See pic

Paint Panels

Fairly straight forward. I used a pressure pack of Black enamel satin finish paint. Passenger side was done outside of car. Crawling upside down underneath the steering wheel is beginning to become second nature. Bugger pilates work on your Z!

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Re Installation

Still need to source some lugs for the passenger side.

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After 10 years of drought the dust builds up, well at least thats my excuse!

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:-[



#15 tattoo_ink

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Posted 24 January 2008 - 03:02 AM

re: alloy wheel polishing - try hitting them with paint stripper (to get rid of any clearcoat) if there is any. give them a water blast then and get hold of some 800,1200,2000 grit wet and dry spend an hour or so on each wheel , then do the polishing like toecutter and zzz8 said and youl fall over backwards  ;D!





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