Andrew_L26 Posted September 5, 2016 Author Share Posted September 5, 2016 Once again, decided to pull out some bog while I had a spare few mins. Over what I would consider to be a really really good repair (however unfinished) stacks of bog. Just needs some hammer and dolly work + welds ground and led filled. The main issue here is that when the car was de-badged they've warped the hell out of the panel. Would anyone know what size the holes are supposed to be for the badges so I can re-drill them? Why not just bog over the badge holes (considering there is all this bog there anyway) It is really looking like the girl's father did a pretty decent job and wasn't lying when he said that all the rust was cut out and new steel was welded in (except for the rear hatch) I'm starting to dream my old girl may not be as much work as I had thought... (I hope anyway) Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blu260z Posted September 5, 2016 Share Posted September 5, 2016 (edited) Andrew look into getting a "strip it disc" for a 4" or 5" grinder. They are a little expensive at around $25 but that will do aprox 1/3 of a car. They are perfect for paint and bog and saves the damage a heatgun can cause and will take half the time. ☺ Edited September 5, 2016 by blu260z Andrew_L26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted September 7, 2016 Author Share Posted September 7, 2016 Andrew look into getting a "strip it disc" for a 4" or 5" grinder. They are a little expensive at around $25 but that will do aprox 1/3 of a car. They are perfect for paint and bog and saves the damage a heatgun can cause and will take half the time. ☺ Cheers, Looks like I'm off to bunnings! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted October 3, 2016 Author Share Posted October 3, 2016 Finished off grinding and beating my LHS fender, Just needs another weld here and there where I'm not happy with the strength of the current ones and some led filler and it will be ready to be fully stripped back and painted! As with everything else I've found it just needed to be finished off. CBR Jeff 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HomeBuiltByJeff Posted October 3, 2016 Share Posted October 3, 2016 Coming together nicely. Andrew_L26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted November 6, 2016 Author Share Posted November 6, 2016 Finally finished exams so now I can dedicate my time to the old girl. Started today by removing the windshield and the rest of the inner scuttle panel The rust I'm going to be attacking Does anyone know why there is this extra bit of metal spot welded in this area, I thought it was just somebody's quick fix for the hole but it seems to be factory, my guess is that it adds strength to the pedal box mounts? Cutting holes Pedal Box is out Dash is out, I'm pretty sure it's too far gone for a good repair but I'm giving Gav's expanding foam a go, here it is with all the cracks cut out... Looking forward to getting some gas for my welder tomorrow and beginning to patch up the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted November 13, 2016 Author Share Posted November 13, 2016 Ripping out bog and sorting out the area under the windshield. Also repairing the dash cracks using expanding foam and bog, I'm going to finish it off with bed liner. We will see how it works out... Can't wait to get more done tomorrow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBR Jeff Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 The care free days of a student. No money but lots of time. Enjoy them Andrew, it will all change to soon. Great work. Jeff. George, gav240z and HomeBuiltByJeff 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HomeBuiltByJeff Posted November 13, 2016 Share Posted November 13, 2016 The care free days of a student. No money but lots of time. Enjoy them Andrew, it will all change to soon. Great work. Jeff. ...unless you become a Firefighter gav240z, Andrew_L26 and CBR Jeff 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PB260Z Posted November 16, 2016 Moderators Share Posted November 16, 2016 ...unless you become a Firefighter Yeah, that seems to be true.My neighbour is a firey and also pretty much a full time chippy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 Plenty of work has been done, mostly under the windshield area but also I tried lead wiping for the first time with pretty good results. I ended up using some bog to fill in some small low spots and chips but there is no problem with that! I'll let the pictures do the talking! Finished my dash finally! It's not perfect but it's pretty good and far better then what it was before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted December 2, 2016 Administrators Share Posted December 2, 2016 Dashboard is looking really good! Andrew_L26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted December 2, 2016 Author Share Posted December 2, 2016 Dashboard is looking really good! Yeah, came out great. How has yours lasted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted December 3, 2016 Administrators Share Posted December 3, 2016 Yeah, came out great. How has yours lasted? I haven't used the DIY method on mine. Actually it's in Melbourne now I'm going to get it re-skinned professionally and ship it to California for a Fairlady Z owner. Finding a RHD dashboard is pretty hard over there and re-skinning is ultra expensive. So I'm helping him out, he's my source of hard to find early S30Z parts. So it's only fair. Andrew_L26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted December 15, 2016 Author Share Posted December 15, 2016 Who remembers that woeful frame rail repair that I did last year? I do! Time to do this properly, with a gassed welder, far more welding experience and a part that has been made to fit much much better! Also pulled the motor to allow far better access! gav240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 All welded in! Just gotta tack it onto the radiator support Drivers side next! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blu260z Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Andrew In a situation where you are welding a structural point, I personally wouldnt grind the welds flush. Flushing a weld takes all its strength away and generally if its put under strain it will crack right next to the weld in the heat affected zone. Chris Andrew_L26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Andrew In a situation where you are welding a structural point, I personally wouldnt grind the welds flush. Flushing a weld takes all its strength away and generally if its put under strain it will crack right next to the weld in the heat affected zone. Chris That's a good point, I'm probably going to lay another bead down on top. I'm not too worried about the strength of the weld on top as I have a piece of angle iron going about 10cm back inside the original frame rail and then into the new section. I've used a joggle style joint with welds on both sides. I can't imagine that this section will fail given the angle iron going well back into the frame rail. I also did a little strength test today and it would appear that jacking the car up at the end of the frame rail repair and me, my dad and a neighbour bouncing on the car has done nothing to the welds or the actual frame rail. I'll lay a deep low weld on top to keep the strength in the weld. Cheers, Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blu260z Posted December 16, 2016 Share Posted December 16, 2016 Best not to go back over it now Andrew. It wont really achieve anything except for putting extra heat in. The angle will stiffen it up quite a bit ☺ Andrew_L26 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted December 16, 2016 Author Share Posted December 16, 2016 Best not to go back over it now Andrew. It wont really achieve anything except for putting extra heat in. The angle will stiffen it up quite a bit ☺ Good point Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Got the RH frame rail done, the RH side of the engine bay has also been stripped and primed. The LH frame rail has been Lead wiped to neaten things up. A piece of 6mm 50X50 angle iron goes well back into the original frame rail with another section of angle iron to keep things square. The radiator had a temp sensor installed for the thermofans. Wiring was also neatened up. All of the wiring harness has been sleeved. Battery tray area was rusty so I've cut it out and repaired the firewall. This section will be finished soon! I'll let the photos do the rest of the talking Ponyo240z and CBR Jeff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeff43 Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 The frame rail It is looking much better now. Keep at it practise makes perfect. You have come a long way from where you began and I can tell you are building in confidence all the time. Nothing ventured nothing gained is how I look at it. Cheers Jeff Andrew_L26 and mspecr 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted January 15, 2017 Share Posted January 15, 2017 Since you've come this far Andrew, I suggest you strip it to a bare shell, mount it on a rotisserie & have it media blasted.That way you'll find EVERYTHING that needs repairing. Andrew_L26 and mspecr 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew_L26 Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 Since you've come this far Andrew, I suggest you strip it to a bare shell, mount it on a rotisserie & have it media blasted. That way you'll find EVERYTHING that needs repairing. Yeah I'm thinking I'm going to go that direction. I've decided to strip all the paint off one way or another and repair everything properly, rattle can primer it, get her on the road, enjoy and save for a good paint job. What sort of costs are associated with media blasting. I assume it's somewhere around 2k? Cheers, Andrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted January 16, 2017 Share Posted January 16, 2017 Media blasting should cost between $1500 to $2000 (incl. panels). Get it primed in PPG Epoxy Urethane - regular primer isn't durable long term especially if you intend to drive it. http://platinumpaints.com.au/car-paint/paints/2k-system/ppg-blue-black-d-g-3-5lt-detail casho and scott 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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