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Andrew_L26

Definitely Purple 260z

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Media blasting should cost between $1500 to $2000 (incl. panels).

 

Get it primed in PPG Epoxy Urethane - regular primer isn't durable long term especially if you intend to drive it.

http://platinumpaints.com.au/car-paint/paints/2k-system/ppg-blue-black-d-g-3-5lt-detail

I've decided against going for a media blasting due to the cost, being a student I can't justify the cost!

 

I've got these poly strip discs from ebay, they were about 25$ for 5 and they work a treat. I would advise to use extra ppe when using them as I don't know how much I'd trust these ebay specials spinning at that sort of speed (Haven't had any issues yet but you never know)

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-Pcs-100x16mm-Poly-Strip-Disc-Wheel-Paint-Rust-Removal-Clean-Grinder-Purple-/371802705138?hash=item56912b0cf2:g:Kh8AAOSw44BYc24z

 

ALDI had a tap and die set for 29$ thought i'd give it a go given the great value of their other tools (my 60$ ALDI socket set is still perfect) used it a few times to cut new threads as well as clean rusty ones, works a treat!

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Anyway, dropped the front crossmember, stripped the other wheel well, got the wiring done for my thermofans (turns on with temp switch I got from ebay as well as when the A/C is switched on) and my headlight relays. Also tided up my frame rails.

 

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I also redid one of my first repairs, I remember coming home from the 2015 AusZ meet all too ready with my Supercheap auto gasless mig and made a bit of a mess of it. Cut it all out and did it properly.

 

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Ran out of primer!

 

Also made myself a welding/tool cart. Not having a garage to work in makes carting everything around a pain, having a gravel driveway causes for something relatively heavy duty. Just a simple garden cart with a few modifications.

 

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Front suspension has been rebuilt with new SuperPro bushings as well as new Roadsafe ball joints and KYB shocks

The old ball joints have so much play it isn't even funny...

Also tidied up the motor and both my carbie N47 intake and my new P77 L20ET intake (Which I port matched and did an EGR delete on. Also shaved it down and neatened up the 65mm throttle body (Unknown what it's from)

Yes I'm aware that I painted my brake rotors, the pads I have on now are going to be replaced anyway so I'm just going to use them to remove the excess high temp paint before swapping them out.

Lots of turbo stuff too! Waiting for my 720cc Denso injectors to arrive (Overkill I know but running E85 I wanted at least 550cc and I got the Denso injectors for a good price.

Plenty of KBS rust seal everywhere, I decided to do the front of the radiator support in KYB as it will be susceptible to stone chips etc. 

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Pretty well all the rust has been removed in the engine bay so it's almost ready to paint. Just have to get a new inner scuttle panel and weld it in!

I just have to swap the oil pick up over on the motor as well as make a custom fuel rail and the motor will be done!

Edited by Andrew_L26

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Lots of work, lots of photos and lots of black there Andrew.

Good update.

 

Jeff.

Yep certainly is, Black and chrome is going to be the colour scheme in the engine bay, plus blue of the body colour. But that is yet to be revieled.

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It's been a little while since my last update but things are moving forward!

Engine bay is finally getting there with seamsealer and primer, inner cowl panel has been replaced, L/H rear 1/4 work is getting done (including dogleg and sill area)  in which a few mediocore repairs were discovered.

Fuel tank has been taken out, cleaned and stripped. I have been experimenting with the modification of strut mounts to lower the car (old racing trick so I've heard) I'll even it all out when I glue it all together with stikaflex.

 

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Think the dogleg area looks somewhat ok? Well I thought "I'm not spending 4k to have someone spray over a possibly bodged repair! so I investigated and found out it wasn't as bad as I thought!  However , this z did not escape the obligatory dogleg/sill rust!

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Had an interesting idea of having a polished/unpainted (clearcoated) chassis number with a clean oval around it. I will have to talk to my painter about clearcoating over polished metal. 

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I've modified my Kaizen Garage wiring loom so that the ECU will be able to read the oil temp, oil pressure and a signal from a knock sensor as well as extending/ trimming wires to allow the wiring to be tucked and routed neatly. The ECU I am using is the Adaptronic e420d

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I made a start on my custom copper fuel rail for my 720cc Denso injectors Part No: 195500-0830

As I'm going to be running straight E85 (and switching to flex fuel when I get the chance) I chose copper as it is unaffected by ethanol. The Lead based solder will react with the ethanol but on a very small scale and this does not concern me. I've chosen a ProFlow 300lph fuel pump, it is a Bosch 044 based design with some modifications to support E85 properly as well as pump a little more fuel. Also got a 100 Micron pre-filter and a 30 micron post filter, I plan to have a 10 micron filter just before the injectors (or is this overkill?) All of the supporting modifications to the car should support up to 350kw on E85 (other than the stock FPR which I will change in the future) despite me only aiming for 230-250kw to begin with.

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The intercooler piping shown on the motor is only temporary to keep the dust, dirt and water out of the motor/turbo.

 

Also received my intercooler which is sized as following:

550x300x76MM CORE

740 x300x76MM OVERALL LENGTH

2.5" inlet/outlet

This is the absolute perfect size for the s30 as it allows matches the stock A/C condenser very closely preventing turbulence between the intercooler/ac condenser/radiator hurting the performance of all systems. The inlet/outlet can be easily directed through the two fresh air holes by using two 2.5" silicone 90 degree couplers, The side going into the intercooler needs to be trimmed so they will fit. I found it a little challenging to find an intercooler that would match the radiator/condenser as well as allow the inlet/outlets to pass through the fresh air ducts without any modifications to the radiator support or the car/ac condenser/radiator in any way! As this is important for an engineering certificate. The only modification I had to make to the car was to bend the supporting tab for the a/c condenser pipe about 45 degrees to prevent it from rubbing on the intercooler end tanks. Custom brackets were made out of aluminum U stock however I will probably CNC billet mounts at uni as I have found myself in the Formula SAE team (allowing me to learn stacks about the engineering involved in suspension, composites etc.) but also allowing me to have access to equipment that is worth more than anything I will ever be able to afford on which I will hopefully be able to use for a few personal things (as long as I provide materials etc.) I'm really looking forward to learning about suspension design (and probably why cutting up suspension mounts is a terrible way to get the #hellafush look haha)

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My main concern now is my transmission, the current 280zx 5 speed I have is in need of a rebuild however even if it is rebuilt I'm pretty sure it will nuke it's self at 230kw. I'm tossing up between a VL gearbox (71C) and the far more expensive but stronger Z32 gearbox option. 

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I've decided what I'm doing with this build (until I change my mind anyway) and that is to make a high powered zed with all the nice things such as A/C and a good sound-system, yes this won't be as fast, or handle as well as a lightweight build but it should be a beautiful car to not only look at but also drive!

 

Managed to get noticed by Cigweld and they sent out some merch!

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Going to get the engine back in and sort out intercooler piping, get the wiring routed correctly and any other things before the car is painted as I'd rather scratch primer than the actual paint!

 

 

Special thanks to Scoota for providing me with some affordable rust repair sections and misc parts, Gareth for the rear sump pickup, sump and various intake parts, Simestime for the oil pickup, Cigweld/ESAB for the awesome merch, Proflow for helping me select the correct fuel system parts and of course Stephen (SGR65) for being an absolute legend after there were a few issues with the turbo kit!

 

Moving forward!!

 

Andrew

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Hooly dolly Andrew. That is a post and a half.

Might not read any of my book tonight!!!

 

Jeff.

Certainly took me awhile haha

Hope you enjoy!

 

Andrew

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C'mon man, how about some pics eh lol.  Just be careful when cutting down the strut mounts that sufficient flex is still available for the struts, they need to be able to pivot a little bit without much resistance.

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C'mon man, how about some pics eh lol.  Just be careful when cutting down the strut mounts that sufficient flex is still available for the struts, they need to be able to pivot a little bit without much resistance.

Haha yeah, I take photos of nearly everything I do!!. I have cut the maximum suggested which ended up being around 20mm. Once I mould it all back together with stikaflex as well as the leftover rubber it should hopefully still have a fair bit of flex available!

 

Andrew

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It's been awhile since I have updated this post but here is the latest!

 

 

 

I have continued work on the passenger dogleg rust repairs, really happy with how it's turned out so far! I'm going to leave it unfinished for a while so I will be able to do some rust prevention once I finally get the supplies. 

 

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Also got stuck into the rear hatch slam area and tail light surrounds. The slam area was a pretty easy repair but the only thing left to complete is the upper panel. I should be able to repair the one that I removed as it is not too badly damaged.

 

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Managed to source some good condition cuts from another 2+2 so I decided it would be best to cut the mess out around the tail light area. After being "repaired" quite a few times in the past I don't think it was feasible to do anything else.

 

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The fuel filler area was a funny one. Given the quality of repairs in other sections of the car and the view from behind I made the choice to make up a replacement section before even removing the filler. This would have worked great however I have sourced a cut from Scoota which will make this repair a breeze once it arrives! The amount of body filler was once again incredible!

 

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Got my copper fuel rail/wiring sleeve finished and mounted. I might end up replacing this with a palnet fuel rail in the future but I will see how this one goes first!

 

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Found some rust underneath the lead filler in the top of the passenger 1/4, wasn't expecting this so it was a bit of a pain but I will patch it up!

 

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Got my L28ET running which was a real motivator to hear the turbo spool!

 

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Began work on my 71C gearbox conversion

 

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Finished off the bodywork in the engine bay and finally got it primed in a quality 2 Pac Primer! 

 

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Got my front crossmember in as well as the rest of the front end.

 

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Motor is mounted!

 

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Using a modified Subaru GC8 Impreza fuse block for all the relays and fuses related to the turbo kit as well as the upgraded headlight relays.

 

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Intercooler piping coming along

 

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Got the engine running in the car with all the wiring functioning

 

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Started work on the 3" exhaust

 

3" offset Magnaflow muffler and a 200cpi magnaflow catalytic converter (save the planet!)

Custom twin stacked ANSA styled tips with duel 2" outlets as the last thing I want on my z is a huge fart cannon style outlet!

 

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Full stainless 3" exhaust

 

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Also managed to score a genuine working 260z radio!

 

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I've just picked up Liam's 1979 280zx hard top which I will also be working on. The link to that build thread is: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/11913-280zx-project-bringing-a-beast-back-from-the-dead/?hl=beast
 
If anyone wants to get updates as I work on the car I post all of my builds (Including a KE30 Corolla) they can follow my Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/andrew_langford88/
 
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Cheers guys!
Andrew
Edited by Andrew_L26

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