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Watanabe 16x8 +0 AS NEW with tyres Melbourne


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#21 dat2kman

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 10:21 PM

You'll also get some flex in the stub axles upon firm cornering.
There should be a bit f keat on the Willwood casting, to be able to put t in a mill, and take a bit, r bits f skim ff.
Hit it with flat black heat paint.

Just had same ssue with one f the Qld members Simmns 16" rims, he ended up trial fitting a number f other nce styled rims, and went for a 16" Rota.
We threw a 15" Performance S/Light onto t, t was a bees dick f clearance, t would have needed about 2mm ff top outside edge of the Willwood, to ensure clearance.
The 16" Simmons were totally hopeless, due to their inside spike shaping.

#22 dat240z

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 10:49 PM

Sorry dat2kman, you're suggesting to slightly grind down the caliper a few mm??

#23 dat2kman

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 11:25 PM

There will be a bit more "meat" in the caliper, than thckness on the sde rim face!
Willwood have technical drawings f their range, that shows, to some extent, where you could posiibly machine it, bearing in mind the caliper halves securing bolts, and where it fouls.
In our case here, t was just up from the bleed nipples top and bottom.
When you look at where the piston bores are, where the bleed outer threaded tube screws in,, and depending on the caliper mdel, you MAY be able to take some off, but only do the immediate area.

Ther option, f ypu have flares, is longer studs, and use a slip on type spacer, that s then mechancally fastened to either the hub, or backface of rim. Countersunk machine screw into a tapped M5 hole, s sufficient.

#24 dat240z

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Posted 26 October 2015 - 11:34 PM

I'm with you. Arent spacers illegal though??

#25 dat2kman

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Posted 27 October 2015 - 09:57 AM

If they are attached, and part f an assembly, ie a hub, r a wheel rim, are they still a spacer?
That is just like having a new hub machined up, or a rim with dfferent ffset.

I like attaching the ally spacer to,,,,,, an ally rim. You remve rim, lay it down, and no-one bothers to look at the insde rim, but at your nce shiny brakes instead.

The NICE 75mm long studs are easily lathed back to your required length, f their slightly lnger than stock studs dont cut t.
38mm vs 45mm?

#26 jock

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 08:31 AM

Man, I just fitted my new wats I bought here and they are just touching on the willwood caliper:(( barely but there's s slight rubbing...literally less than 5mm
Any suggestions??? I love them but f%#@ this is annoying.

Make sure it is not a stick on wheel weight rubbing, get under there and look while you spin the wheel. 



#27 reverendzed

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 09:46 AM

Man, I just fitted my new wats I bought here and they are just touching on the willwood caliper:(( barely but there's s slight rubbing...literally less than 5mm
Any suggestions??? I love them but f%#@ this is annoying.

Can you run a very slim spacer?  Or is there enough meat on the Caliper to be able to lightly shave?  Just a thought.



#28 dat240z

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Posted 28 October 2015 - 01:54 PM

Can you run a very slim spacer?  Or is there enough meat on the Caliper to be able to lightly shave?  Just a thought.


Yeah pretty much my exact line of thought at the moment. Am hoping to go 3 mm or 5 mm spacer for now, then see if shaving a tad off the willwoods would suffice... The spacer should be OK as it's very minimal and can still use the current studs.. Bloody cars. One step forwards, two steps backwards!!!

#29 Grandad

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Posted 30 October 2015 - 01:01 AM

One step forwards, two steps backwards!!!  I know the feeling so well but fortunately I can fix it for you just pm your bank details I'll do a transfer arrange transport to collect the wheels and your problem will be solved. :)

 

In the unlikely event that happens I still may be able to help, while I'm not familliar with Willwoods I had a similar issue when I upgraded front brakes, I found the outer edge of the calipers (where fortunately there was plenty of metal) fouling wheels when fitted with new pads so I ground off 3-5mm from the extreme edges to allow clearence (stick on wheel weight placement is critical here) as the pads wear so the clearence increases.

 

In the absence of pics I don't know where your clearence issue is but if it's at either end of the calliper you may be able to remove some metal to allow fitment of wheels (as I did) but if it's all the way across the top I would be a bit more concerned and would seek professional advice but you might be able to take a bit from the calliper and machine a bit off the inside of the wheel but this is where you may need to take advice from the wheel manufacturer because the last thing you need is for front wheels to fail.

 

When I bought the Zed it came with after market wheels and 5mm spacers on the front to allow caliper clearence but with stock studs there was barely two threads of cover which was really inviting trouble and quickly remidied, if your seriously considering using spacers don't lose sight of the fact that for very 1mm of clearance you create on the inside there is 1mm less clearence on the outside and from experience in running 16x8 wheels on a Zed I know guard clearence is critical.


Edited by TT Aero, 30 October 2015 - 01:06 AM.


#30 dat240z

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Posted 30 October 2015 - 10:13 AM

One step forwards, two steps backwards!!! I know the feeling so well but fortunately I can fix it for you just pm your bank details I'll do a transfer arrange transport to collect the wheels and your problem will be solved. :)
 
In the unlikely event that happens I still may be able to help, while I'm not familliar with Willwoods I had a similar issue when I upgraded front brakes, I found the outer edge of the calipers (where fortunately there was plenty of metal) fouling wheels when fitted with new pads so I ground off 3-5mm from the extreme edges to allow clearence (stick on wheel weight placement is critical here) as the pads wear so the clearence increases.
 
In the absence of pics I don't know where your clearence issue is but if it's at either end of the calliper you may be able to remove some metal to allow fitment of wheels (as I did) but if it's all the way across the top I would be a bit more concerned and would seek professional advice but you might be able to take a bit from the calliper and machine a bit off the inside of the wheel but this is where you may need to take advice from the wheel manufacturer because the last thing you need is for front wheels to fail.
 
When I bought the Zed it came with after market wheels and 5mm spacers on the front to allow caliper clearence but with stock studs there was barely two threads of cover which was really inviting trouble and quickly remidied, if your seriously considering using spacers don't lose sight of the fact that for very 1mm of clearance you create on the inside there is 1mm less clearence on the outside and from experience in running 16x8 wheels on a Zed I know guard clearence is critical.

 
Ha, youll be the first in line if I do decide to re-list them due to clearance. From my calculations I have almost 10mm inside the guards currently, so am aiming for 3 or 5 mm spacers until I do machine the calipers to clear. So your z using 5mm spacers greatly reduced your stud length huh? Id hoped I wouldnt need to get longer ones, but I agree you dont want limited thread and a wheel come flying off!!


Edited by gav240z, 02 December 2015 - 01:12 PM.


#31 Grandad

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Posted 30 October 2015 - 11:48 AM

Ha, youll be the first in line if I do decide to re-list them due to clearance. From my calculations I have almost 10mm inside the guards currently, so am aiming for 3 or 5 mm spacers until I do machine the calipers to clear. So your z using 5mm spacers greatly reduced your stud length huh? Id hoped I wouldnt need to get longer ones, but I agree you dont want limited thread and a wheel come flying off!!


First in line sounds good.
The stud issue I had was caused by a combination of non standard rotors and the spacer.  I bought long studs from Repco but they are available in eBay as are spacers, I had them cut down to the length required for my situation. 
If you can change a wheel then you can change studs, they are a splined press fit and can be removed and replaced easily with a hammer and large centre punch.

#32 dat240z

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Posted 02 December 2015 - 01:08 PM

So quick solution for the time being.... Bought a set of 4mm spacers to clear the brakes until my mechanic can look at milling the caliper hats 2-3mm. My next question is does anyone know the correct centre cap size for the 240z or does it depend on the rims your running. I know the simple solution would be grab a tape measure, but im currently overseas and have found some Wat caps for $100 but unsure of the size I should aim for??



#33 PB260Z

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Posted 04 December 2015 - 10:38 AM

So quick solution for the time being.... Bought a set of 4mm spacers to clear the brakes until my mechanic can look at milling the caliper hats 2-3mm. My next question is does anyone know the correct centre cap size for the 240z or does it depend on the rims your running.

Hi

 

Definitely depends on the rims, but usually around 50mm.

Or are you refering to the Hub Centre Bore size ? - that is 73mm on an S30

 

Cheers

 

PB






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