Jump to content

Watanabe 16x8 +0 AS NEW with tyres Melbourne


Recommended Posts

Brand: RS-WATANABE

Model: TYPE R

Tyres: 225/45/16 Kumho KU31 traveled only 1000km

Pair / Set: Set of 4

PCD: 4x114.3

Diameter / Width / Offset: 16x8 +0

Location: Blackburn South, Melbourne, VIC

Willing to Ship: Yes

Price: $2550

Willing to Swap: No

 

Wheels and tyres are as new condition...

 

$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG

$_20.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Sold pending payment ...

 

Gav, sold my Z. :(

 

Sad times... I was surprised but obviously you have your reasons.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • Administrators

Deposit placed until collection!!! They're mine....mooohahahaha (evil laugh)

Thanks, that's put temptation out of reach. Besides I really want 15" over 16" anyway. Love these wheels though.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I was ummmming and ahhhhing for almost two months over these bad boys. The rotas currently on the z while looking good to the untrained eye, lose a lot of credibility with those on the know. Buying a set was always in the pipeline, I thought stuff it and do it now compared to sourcing new ones + tyres in the future. That's how I've justified it to myself anyway. Prob save close to 2 grand from new too.

 

I prefer the 15" stance, but need at least a 16" to clear the willwoods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah I was ummmming and ahhhhing for almost two months over these bad boys. The rotas currently on the z while looking good to the untrained eye, lose a lot of credibility with those on the know. Buying a set was always in the pipeline, I thought stuff it and do it now compared to sourcing new ones + tyres in the future. That's how I've justified it to myself anyway. Prob save close to 2 grand from new too.

 

I prefer the 15" stance, but need at least a 16" to clear the willwoods.

You wouldn't happen to be selling those credibility loosing rims would you? I am in need of something with tread hahaha

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah mate, actually am putting them up for sale. I should elaborate re: credibility. They're a cool, good looking rim for sure, but I guess the icing on the cake for me and my car was a set of wats. At the time I couldn't justify the $3500 + just for rims/shipping then add tyres so I went the next best approach.

 

What's your mobile mate and I can get some pics etc across. The rotas are in perfect condition with near new tires also

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I prefer the 15" stance, but need at least a 16" to clear the willwoods.

 

I dont think you need 16's to clear Willwoods with Watts.. I run them front and rear with 15's. Its 0.5mm off, but they clear without any issues.

Edited by 240Z_au
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Man, I just fitted my new wats I bought here and they are just touching on the willwood caliper:(( barely but there's s slight rubbing...literally less than 5mm

Any suggestions??? I love them but f%#@ this is annoying.

Edited by dat240z
Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll also get some flex in the stub axles upon firm cornering.

There should be a bit f keat on the Willwood casting, to be able to put t in a mill, and take a bit, r bits f skim ff.

Hit it with flat black heat paint.

 

Just had same ssue with one f the Qld members Simmns 16" rims, he ended up trial fitting a number f other nce styled rims, and went for a 16" Rota.

We threw a 15" Performance S/Light onto t, t was a bees dick f clearance, t would have needed about 2mm ff top outside edge of the Willwood, to ensure clearance.

The 16" Simmons were totally hopeless, due to their inside spike shaping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There will be a bit more "meat" in the caliper, than thckness on the sde rim face!

Willwood have technical drawings f their range, that shows, to some extent, where you could posiibly machine it, bearing in mind the caliper halves securing bolts, and where it fouls.

In our case here, t was just up from the bleed nipples top and bottom.

When you look at where the piston bores are, where the bleed outer threaded tube screws in,, and depending on the caliper mdel, you MAY be able to take some off, but only do the immediate area.

 

Ther option, f ypu have flares, is longer studs, and use a slip on type spacer, that s then mechancally fastened to either the hub, or backface of rim. Countersunk machine screw into a tapped M5 hole, s sufficient.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If they are attached, and part f an assembly, ie a hub, r a wheel rim, are they still a spacer?

That is just like having a new hub machined up, or a rim with dfferent ffset.

 

I like attaching the ally spacer to,,,,,, an ally rim. You remve rim, lay it down, and no-one bothers to look at the insde rim, but at your nce shiny brakes instead.

 

The NICE 75mm long studs are easily lathed back to your required length, f their slightly lnger than stock studs dont cut t.

38mm vs 45mm?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...