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clutch drag...Cant adjust to stop it


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#1 WogsRus

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Posted 27 June 2015 - 10:42 PM

So with my gearbox issues i tried to adjust my clutch as it is dragging.

I cant make it stop dragging. I believe clutch was replaced over two years ago, is it possible that the clutch is wrong.
Also, what can be the issues if i cant adjust the clutch to stop clutch drag. Fork and bearing etc?

Thanks

#2 Scoota G

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 07:44 AM

I had an issue recently where the pedal itself was bending. Have you adjusted it inside the cab at the pedal box?

#3 KatoKid

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 09:59 AM

Make sure hydraulics are bled properly and giving full travel

#4 WogsRus

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 04:02 PM

tried it all, re-bled the clutch 10 times, readjusted the travel, no good. It looks like the clutch and throw out bearing are a mismatch, which is why its doing it.

Oh well new gearbox time

#5 zzzzed

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 04:51 PM

I doubt it's your gear box mate. Save your self some money and have some one who knows what they are doing look at it first.

#6 pauly_adams

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 06:53 PM

ill be down your way in about a month or so if your willing to wait, I may be able to have a look at it

#7 Lurch ™

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 07:00 PM

T/Out bearing carrier is either the wrong length, or your clutch slave cylinder rod is too long.

But without looking at it in person, it's impossible to tell.

#8 WogsRus

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 07:02 PM

If you saw what came out of the gearbox and the amount of metal shards, you would know why im saying its fcucked. I put the scope up there, not pretty. I do know what im doing its just that this car wast built by me so im constantly trying to figure out what the others have done to it.

The clutch and throw out bearing is a definite mismatch, its 4mm short by the looks of it.

Mr Pauly, the beer is waiting and i have more time so all good, i wont be doing anything any time soon just yet, car is derivable, just crap gear shifts and hates 3rd.

#9 Retro Z

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 09:24 PM

Try putting a washer behind the clutch fork for pivot ball, to get more pivot/travel.

I also went through 3 clutches till i found the correct one. You need 92mm 'overall height' of the pressure plate+collar/bearing. Or mesaure from the flywheel surface to the surface the clutch forks ride on the collar (ears).

Also try using a shorter pushrod for the slave (you can use a bolt to test with)

Also check that your pressure plate is bolted down onto the flywheel properly and not hung up on any flywheel dowels.

Another thing, most aftermarket slave masters have the wrong length pushrods (too short) and wont push the required amount of fluid, something to check aswell, but doubt thats your problem.

We need more details if the problem.
Did you do a conversion? Where did you buy the clutch from?

#10 WogsRus

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 09:38 PM

Cant give you any more details, it was all done before my time before i got the car.

Hence why i am working through all the possibilities etc.

I am unsure why the push rod length (on the slave) would make any difference at all, the system is static, the only thing that can change the rate of travel is the over all size of the piston????

I changes the clutch slave to the one recommended on this forum,  JB4055. Nissan don't have any for the Z specific anymore.

The master is the original Z one which is all new but an original Z one i recoed.

#11 Retro Z

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 10:14 PM


I am unsure why the push rod length (on the slave) would make any difference at all, the system is static, the only thing that can change the rate of travel is the over all size of the piston????


If the pushrod is too long it wont allow the fork to return to rest therefore clutch won't be fully disengaging properly. There has to be some slack and the piston shouldn't be (bottom out) hard up against the fork.
Pull the gearbox and clutch out. 30 min job and measure the total height of the clutch assembly and collar and reassemble.

#12 WogsRus

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Posted 28 June 2015 - 10:40 PM

ahh nope its not that, there appears to be plenty of slack if need be etc. I will take the box out once i get a new one, do it all at once.

I put new oil in yesterday, now the box sounds even worse, sounds like bolts in a tin can, LOL.

#13 zzzzed

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 09:19 AM

Diesel the rattling go away or change? when you put your foot on the clutch?

#14 1600dave

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 09:46 AM

T/Out bearing carrier is either the wrong length, .


I'd put money on this, seen it many times (and done it myself once :-[)



#15 WogsRus

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 10:04 AM

If you depress the clutch and disengage the drive, yes, if you are in neutral and engaged, then it sounds REALLY nasty, its the main bearings are gone by the sounds of it. Sounds like main bearings.

#16 zzzzed

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 10:50 AM

While in neutral, if the sound is louder with the clutch out then it will be your thrust bearing that is knackered. This may contribute to your clutch drag if it is rely bad.

#17 WogsRus

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 11:22 AM

Thanks zzzzzed. The clutch bearing is one noise, this is main shaft bearing. Its quite BAD inside the box not just the thrust, i suspect thats just one of my issues. Thanks




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