Jump to content


Photo

Rear Slam Panel Rust Repair.


  • Please log in to reply
42 replies to this topic

#21 CBR Jeff

CBR Jeff

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 971 posts
  • Location:Canberra most of the time
  • Tagline:Often lost

Posted 31 August 2015 - 01:22 PM

I use the same ones Dave. They are the best option in my opinion. You just need to use a good quality cutting fluid while using it, take it easy and this type will last quite a while. Remember heat is your enemy. 

 

Jeff



#22 CBR Jeff

CBR Jeff

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 971 posts
  • Location:Canberra most of the time
  • Tagline:Often lost

Posted 31 August 2015 - 01:55 PM

Some of this

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_0297-1.JPG

  • gav240z likes this

#23 aircobra

aircobra

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 691 posts
  • Location:Melbourne
  • Tagline:New Member

Posted 31 August 2015 - 03:13 PM

the bunings fluid one works good

i use the holesaw ones  ($8 for 3 on ebay), but also have the drill type for the tricky jobs . one crown lasts for about 40 welds

the best drill one i found is the "titanium coated" type, but they can't be sharpened



#24 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 01 September 2015 - 03:36 PM

I'm working on unpicking the rear beaver panel on my S30z.

 

Just wondering if you guys think these are factory welds?

 

IMG_20150831_203000.jpg

IMG_20150831_203008.jpg

 

They certainly don't look like regular spot welds, so it got me wondering if they were original or not? I imagine they will be a little more difficult to unpick. They also looked a bit messy for 'factory' but I guess anything is possible? Certainly doesn't look like the rear beaver panel has ever been unpicked before so I assume they are?



#25 Lurch ™

Lurch ™

    Curator of the 'Gavin Collection'

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,658 posts
  • Location:Victoria
  • Tagline:In my Den of Rust & Sin

Posted 01 September 2015 - 07:29 PM

Factory.


  • gav240z likes this

#26 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 16 March 2016 - 12:48 PM

Minor updates here.

 

So fabricating the rear slam panel upper area (under the spot welded panel) is a bit hard without the right tools. Using a folder here and preferably a guillotine to cut to the right size is very helpful.

 

I had tried to use a paper template of the whole thing but it came out badly due to all the obstacles in the way and the paper I was using was very thin and would rip on the sharp edges of the metal.

 

So instead I measured with a rule to get dimensions of certain sections. Here you can see 2 sections I made, the first was a mess as I tried to trim the lip for the rubber seal with tin snips and on such a long piece it's very hard to cut with tin snips close to a fold.

 

So on the right side you see the second attempt using a folder to get the nice lip and then folding again for the 30 degree bend upward.

 

IMG_20160308_204401.jpg

 

Since the car was not at Tafe as a reference a lot of this was guess work or best guess based on my measurements and observations etc..

 

IMG_20160308_204356.jpg

 

I used paper templates from the car the night before but focused on the missing sections on each side, then measured the different between those sections with a ruler to scribe them onto the panel. Since I made this piece a little longer to give me some room for error.

 

IMG_20160315_193110.jpg

 

Sorry left side is blurry.

Right side is better.

IMG_20160315_193113.jpg

 

The original upper edge of the beaver section has a beveled edge as opposed to completely square so I tried to replicate that as much as possible.

 

IMG_20160315_220238.jpg

 

I've left some excess metal to allow adjustments as I go. I also need to cut out the center section of the original piece as it's pretty knackered before I can put it in place completely.

 

Shows bevel area better.

IMG_20160315_220233.jpg

 

How it looks so far.

IMG_20160315_220225.jpg

 

Reminder of how it looks underneath it all.

IMG_20160315_220251.jpg

 

and attached is a photo of how it's supposed to look...(another photo borrowed from the Lithuania car)

10986916_938328129573180_7341851964881763689_n.jpg

 

This is still an experiment for me, but so far it's looking good. There is a few more fiddly bits though below this area that need to be fixed also. But I want to get this section correct before picking the whole rear panel and replacing the bottom half of the beaver panel.

 

Side note: You can also see another members repair work on the same area in this thread.



#27 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 29 March 2016 - 10:03 PM

Small update.

 

Did a bit more re-shaping and trimming tonight. At some point I think I just need to commit to cutting the underlying piece and weld the 2 pieces together. However before I do that I'm going to remove the carpet, fuel tank and anything else that might catch on fire...

 

IMG_20160329_220040.jpg



#28 Groundhog

Groundhog

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 210 posts
  • Location:Brisbane

Posted 08 April 2016 - 07:19 PM

FYI

After buying a slam panel for a 260Z I've found out that it doesn't fit my 260Z 2+2.

The slam panel on the 2+2 bus is wider and has extended corners on the end.

It could be modified with alterations to the width and ends,but you may as well fix the one you take off as modify a rust repair panel.



#29 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 08 April 2016 - 09:07 PM

FYI

After buying a slam panel for a 260Z I've found out that it doesn't fit my 260Z 2+2.

The slam panel on the 2+2 bus is wider and has extended corners on the end.

It could be modified with alterations to the width and ends,but you may as well fix the one you take off as modify a rust repair panel.

 

Yep, 2+2's are pretty much different in every way from the windscreen pillars back.



#30 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 15 May 2016 - 12:27 PM

Just putting this here for my own reference.
http://www.zparts.co...remove_faq.html

#31 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 17 April 2017 - 07:28 PM

Just adding some photos I found of a repair done here by another workshop.

https://www.facebook...903245716405015



#32 drifta1600

drifta1600

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 176 posts
  • Location:traralgon vic au
  • Tagline:Nissan For life!!

Posted 21 April 2017 - 07:42 AM

Heres my repair job. Panel from rare spares. Was surprising easy job compaired to most other rust repairs..

Attached Thumbnails

  • Screenshot_20170421-073949.png

  • gav240z likes this

#33 Cozza

Cozza

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 965 posts
  • Location:Sydney
  • Tagline:Datsun obsessed

Posted 21 April 2017 - 08:39 AM

Nice repair.
Is that a hammer and tongs you're drinking?

#34 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 20 May 2017 - 09:20 PM

So it's been a while between posts, but whilst I am working on the bonnet I've got to a stage where I really need guidance on the finishing bits and whilst the teacher is busy with other students I don't have much to do.

I decided I should probably tackle the rear slam panel while the teacher is busy and start making progress on that. Since I don't think it's going to be too difficult (famous last words of course).

Removing it was an utter paint in the arse, but given the rust damage and the fact the car had a light nudge in the rear many years ago it really was the only way to do it.

What I found odd was the factory sealant behind the panel in the box section.
IMG_20170520_202227.jpg

It sort of just sat here. I'm guessing a light impact in the rear disturbs the sealant around the panel, water ingress comes in and then she rusts out from the inside.
IMG_20170520_202233.jpg
IMG_20170520_202242.jpg
Rear valance / beaver removed.
IMG_20170520_202312.jpg

The panel itself isn't actually too bad considering, but it is quite dented and the rusted areas would have been a pain in the butt to repair using mig.
IMG_20170520_202355.jpg

For those playing at home, here are most of the spot welds. I certainly found a few hidden ones which made the whole process very frustrating I must say..
IMG_20170520_202443.jpg
IMG_20170520_202447.jpg
IMG_20170520_202508.jpg
IMG_20170520_202557.jpg

Now compare the profile with the replacement spare I got from Canada.
IMG_20170520_202600.jpg
IMG_20170520_202600.jpg

How it looks without the panel at the rear.
IMG_20170520_205645.jpg

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20170520_202608.jpg


#35 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 22 May 2017 - 10:52 PM

I may try and source a better rear valance section, but in the interim I'll have a go at repairing it. On the left hand corner below the tail lamp it had rusted out.
IMG_20170522_182906.jpg

I beat the panel into shape (just so I know what i'm working to).
IMG_20170522_182858.jpg

Rust repair corner.
IMG_20170522_210355.jpg

I had to remove the rear tail lamp garnish clips (which I didn't want to do because I'm worried they'll go missing).

Started to curve the replacement panel using a shrinker. I use the shrinker on the top edge as that in turns curves the panel in.
IMG_20170522_210400.jpg

Not much more progress ;(

#36 onree

onree

    Newbie

  • Members
  • Pip
  • 6 posts
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Newbie

Posted 01 June 2017 - 01:40 PM

This is really great stuff Gav, learning a lot from you!


  • gav240z likes this

#37 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 01 June 2017 - 01:46 PM

This is really great stuff Gav, learning a lot from you!

 

Hopefully also learning how not to do things :). I have made a lot of mistakes along the way which next time (and I'm sure there will be a next time) I hopefully won't make. But as my first Tafe teacher said to me, "a man who never made a mistake, never made anything."



#38 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 04 June 2017 - 11:18 PM

So trying to figure out how to repair this section has probably taken more thought on my behalf than really needed. I've been umming and arhhing over how to best do it and I finally decided to just give it a go and see what happens. I've spent enough time over thinking it.

 

Since this area has a lot of folds and angles, it's hard to make a replacement piece (that is 1 piece).

 

Also I should probably have attempted this while it was still attached to the car (rear valance area) and that was the plan originally but I got carried away thinking I'd tackle the lower half first.

 

I've just tack welded these pieces into place for now. They are joined with an overlap for now, but I'll cut the excess and probably oxy weld them together. I'll use oxy because I can still reshape with a hammer and dolly after welding where as a mig weld is hard and not as pliable after welding.

 

Since I'll probably need to make some minor adjustments as I go, and I might try and re-shape some areas with a hammer and dolly etc..

 

Thing is you won't see the area anyway once it's covered with the slam panel, and the rear tail lamp interior plastic cover panel. But I don't want it to be messy at the same time. I was hoping I'd only have to do 1 weld line, but I think I'll have to patch a few smaller spots etc.. but with a bit of filing down and grinding hopefully it will be hard to detect once done.

 

Worst case scenario I may be able to import a slightly weathered NOS panel, but working on this just in case that doesn't materialise.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20170604_204217.jpg
  • IMG_20170604_204220.jpg
  • IMG_20170604_204242.jpg
  • IMG_20170604_204246.jpg


#39 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 07 November 2017 - 12:56 PM

So I think the bonnet on this car was in pretty average shape, but actually the worst part of the car would have to be this rear beaver/valance panel and slam panel section.

As you know a while ago I imported the lower half section from a Z supplier in Canada, this piece however was made of really thick gauge steel and with the help of my tafe teacher we tried to re-shape it.

Part of the problem was the stamping in the middle, it's quite deep and this means that when we try and curve the piece it's actually being held in place by this stamping. I think the photos will best illustrate the problem.

We tried to beat it into shape and then used an English wheel to smooth it out, but we can't get the English wheel into the top section.

Notice the bow?

So after all that messing about, I said, do you think we could just repair the existing piece? It's going to be a bit of a patch work quilt, but the advantage is that it'a a thinner gauge of steel and more flexible. I've already panel beaten it into shape again (will need more work here) but we know importantly this piece fits perfectly.

1 problem with repairing the existing panel is that I cut a bajillion holes in it removing the spot welds. The zip cutter creates large holes that need to be patched up again. If you're going to remove spot welds find the smallest spot weld cutter possible and use that. I didn't think I'd be using this panel again, but it looks like we will.

You can see rather than patch these holes I'm creating a new edge (on each side).

If there is 1 thing for certain I'll be learning a lot of welding skills fixing this thing. I'm using Oxy welding here as it will allow me to free form the panel as I go, Mig welds are too hard and brittle and would not allow for much adjustment later.

Attached Thumbnails

  • IMG_20171030_192838.jpg
  • IMG_20171030_193451.jpg
  • IMG_20171030_193455.jpg
  • IMG_20171030_195711.jpg
  • IMG_20171030_195715.jpg
  • IMG_20171030_195720.jpg
  • IMG_20171106_204834.jpg


#40 gav240z

gav240z

    Administrator

  • Administrators
  • 12,623 posts
  • Website:http://www.viczcar.com
  • Location:Sydney NSW
  • Tagline:Jack of all trades, master of none.

Posted 21 November 2017 - 03:54 PM

So last night at Tafe for the year 2017, only got 2 small patches done.

So on the right hand side here I added the new piece, but left a bit of wiggle room (excess metal) in case I need to make adjustments later.
IMG_20171120_185118.jpg
IMG_20171120_185126.jpg
Rather than make a new section in the middle where it was severely pitted, I used a 260z donor panel, problem was it had a load of bog on it, not even sure why it was required the panel didn't look badly dented..?
IMG_20171120_192130.jpg
The following photos show the sort of process of lining it up to cut out the old section and weld in the new piece.
IMG_20171120_193449.jpg
IMG_20171120_193850.jpg
IMG_20171120_194027.jpg
IMG_20171120_212043.jpg
As you can see I'm going to end up with a patch work quilt by the time this is done and likely (or hopefully) I'll find a better valance section, but figure if anything it's a good learning experience and practice.
IMG_20171120_212049.jpg
IMG_20171120_185122.jpg




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users