Administrators gav240z Posted May 31, 2015 Administrators Share Posted May 31, 2015 So Lurch told me off for lack of progress on Safari Gold project and I thought I've been thinking of trying to restore these for ages, but like many things it won't restore itself. So I decided to give it a go today, having a spare set is helpful because I was less worried about ruining a good unit. I did a search for a couple of threads on here and found these. 1. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=5144.0 - doesn't cover 'restoration' just clean up. 2. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=10249.0 - removing scratches from perspex. 3. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9411.msg98506.html#msg98506 and 3a. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9411.msg104996.html#msg104996 Best information on here so far, also Special 3 recommends a place in Sydney for chrome vacuum plating. http://www.bronzingstudio.com.au/ http://www.chrometech.com.au/ They are in Castle Hill Sydney - I'll be sending my chrome trims to them for restoration. 4. Skyline's Australia Forum C110 project. Refer to post #4 http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405899-75-c110-gtr-build/ http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/405899-75-c110-gtr-build/?p=6467401 OEM early S30z tail lights (non North American style) with the amber turn signal now sell for around $2000 AU in NOS shape. So if you can restore what you have you'll save quite a bit of cash. This is what I'm starting with, the gunk on the lens is from gaffer tape, the previous owner put that on to stop the tail light lens falling off during transit from S.A to N.S.W It was a prick to remove! It had baked itself on good. I used a combination of a scrubbing pad (kitchen), metho / spirits, hot water and finally a razor blade - which left minor scratches in the lens. Right side. I didn't work on this yet. But it was in 'reasonable shape' to start with, it has a hairline crack in it though which won't polish out. After removing the gunk from the left side. You can see the lens is very dull. Housing before. Not sure if the blue is over-spray or factory mark? Either way it got removed. The housing after scrubbing in hot water with a scouring pad and 800 grit sandpaper (with soapy water). I was careful near the koito logo I also went lighter around the factory stamping. Chrome Trim - retaining clips. Removing these was a pain, I got 1 off without issue the other snapped off... Not sure how I'll repair these just yet. I used my welding pliers to pull them off. You can see 1 of the pins is shorter (where it snapped due to fatigue). To restore the lens sheen I started with 600 grit paper. You can see after going over it (with soapy water, wet sanding) it now has a dull finish. This is normal. Use a zig zag / cross-hatch pattern when sanding. Go left to right, then top to bottom with each level of sandpaper grit. I had various grits from 600, 800, 1200, 1500, 2000 and finally 2500 - I went over the lens with each grit. You'll see it start to become more and more clear (the lens). In particular the reverse (white) part will go from a foggy cloudy look to a see through clear. After wet sanding 2000 grit. After 2500 grit. It's improved but still not got that gloss to it. You can see how the reverse part and amber part at the bottom if now completely clear or transparent. It wasn't like this to begin with. Having read that others used metal polish with good results I cracked out a metal polishing kit I bought a while ago. It has different 'rouges' and mops. I don't have a bench grinder so I used the drill. As you can see the bar of soap looking thing 'rouge' is what you use the mop with. The kit had 3 different levels of aggressiveness for the mops, I started with the second mop as the harsh 1 would have been more harsh than the sandpaper I used previous. After using the polishing kit (medium and fine) each mop has a different rouge you use. I then got the plastic X from Meguirs (seen in earlier photos) and rubbed that on. Using a rag I removed all the excess compound from the lens. Here is how it looks now. Right side hasn't been restored yet, but was in better shape than the left side. It's hard to tell in this photo, but look at the reverse section in particular. Here is a close up of the right hand side which shows it's not as good. Transparency! Chrome trims sitting on... Next steps. 1. Re-chrome the trims and paint black in between. 2. See if I can improve the front of the housing - it's gone a bit yellow-ish (like old plastic) which might I might be able to fix with something like Retr0Bright. http://www.retr0bright.com/ 3. Sikaflex the housing and find some foam for the lower drain holes. 4. Figure out what to do with the broken retaining clips etc.. 5. Experiment with clear coating to tail lights and polishing the clear coat for max shine! Warning: 1 downside of this was that I noticed after my lens (amber part in particular) has lost some of the stamping from the plastic moulding due to the sanding of the lens. With the others that I restore I may try and go lighter around those areas to prevent rubbing these out. Only a fanatic like me would notice but if it's important to retain these markings you'll want to be careful. Feedback and other techniques are welcome as I'll be doing the others shortly. 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PeterH Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Hi Gav......do you have somewhere in mind to get the centre strips re chromed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 1, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 1, 2015 Yep from the link above http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,9411.msg104996.html#msg104996, and as recommended by member 'specialp3' link to user: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=1682 See his photo gallery here: http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=lastupby&cat=0&uid=1682&page=1 http://www.bronzingstudio.com.au/ http://www.chrometech.com.au/ They are in Castle Hill Sydney - I'll be sending my chrome trims to them for restoration. Sent an email enquiry to see if it's cheaper to do multiple items at once or same price to do them individually as I go. I have use a business called The Bronzing Studio in Castle Hill to re-chrome many plastic parts. You have gone to a lot effort to restore you lights and for the extra $160.00 it makes a big difference. Once re-chromed, tape up what you do want to paint and spray with Holts plastic primer (2 coats is enough) from Repco. I have found Tamiya flat black model paint in the small spray can works really well to give the the original finish. I have also found CT18 cleans the housing very well, prepsol can also be used afterwards to remove any left over marks. My housings were fairly ordinary to start with and came up like the images attached. NOTE: Prepsol will remove the original stamped markings on the housing, try to avoid this area if originality is wanted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 1, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 1, 2015 I also forgot to mention the technique for removing or separating the housing and lens may vary, for me 1 of the lens had already separated - hence the duct/gaffer tape used to hold it on. However if your rear lights haven't been tampered with before you'll probably want to soak your lens unit in hot (as in really warm) soapy water or use a heat gun (carefully - keep moving don't focus on 1 spot and don't go too close) to soften up the adhesive holding the lens to the housing. There is also a retaining ring used on the chrome trim that holds the lens and housing together, you need to remove this also. Chances are it will break when you attempt to do so. There is a product called Q-BOND I'll try to use and repair the stalks on the chrome trim piece. I am also considering ordering from here. http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/33-1169 Good reference on what the push nuts look like and removing them and replacement etc.. http://woodworkerb.com/home/datsun-240z-rebuild/refurbish-tail-light-assembly/ Those retaining nuts are called 'push nuts' apparently. http://cliphouse.com/PushNuts.aspx I really need to find a good fastener place in inner west Sydney, everyhing is about 30-45 mins away (when you take into account Sydney traffic) from me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 1, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 1, 2015 Another option for tail light trims. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/50787-better-than-new-240z-taillight-trim/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Interesting reading your last post......I looked at vacuum metalising .....the compnay said that it was not very suitable for outside the vehicle suggesting a coat of two pack clear over the surface to protect. When I told him about the MSA ones he felt price wise they were good value so I bought them...... fortunately when our dollar was a bit more favourable... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 1, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 1, 2015 I may still buy the MSA ones, seems to be reasonable value to me. Did you find the MSA ones just as good as OEM in terms of quality? They are quite 'thick' heavy pieces. Were the replacements the same? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 This is a photo of the inside of the MSA ones....no marking for left and right ( just came two bags marked l & r) and no retaining clips...Randellas might be a better option. gav240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterH Posted June 1, 2015 Share Posted June 1, 2015 Well!!!!!! I didn't even think of the mass / size of them......the originals are 6 gms and the MSA ones are 3.5 gms....on the kitchen scales...the bathroom scales Tell lies.... the only difference dimensionally looks like the two grooves...deeper and wider...so to answer your question yes they are thinner. for the race track maybe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 1, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 1, 2015 So worked on the other side tonight. On this side the housing has overspray from some time in it's history someone painted their car a horrid shade of green. The chrome trim and housing detract from the lens. You can just make out the tooling / stamping marks on this 1. I was more delicate when sanding around the stampings on the lens. But as a result you can still see some pitting around these so I'll need to go over these areas again. I wasn't actually aggressive enough around it. The stamping in the reflector area is easier to preserve simply because it's hard to get to with sandpaper. I'm hoping prepsol or paint thinners will help me remove the old paint off the housing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 2, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 2, 2015 So minor update, using Acetone I managed to get rid of most of the green overspray on the housing using an old toothbrush to get into the crevices and the scour pad to get the tougher baked on paint. Acetone was also really good at removing the remaining gunk left by the adhesive / glue used to bind the housing and lens together. Rear looks great! But here is the hard part... the brown part looks baked on. I'm going to try and mix up some Retr0Bright because I believe this could be discolouration of the plastic due age / UV exposure. Since it's along the top edge (not so much bottom) and on the front of the housing not rear (facing into the boot). It is annoying because when the rear garnish is fitted to the car you can just see through the gap and see the housing. If the retr0bright technique works it should restore the plastic to it's original state. I'll be sure to document how it turns out.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 16, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 16, 2015 Thought I'd share photos of the parker light restoration I'm doing. The non-restored 1 is at the bottom of the photo for comparison. It's actually quite hard to photograph these. Bottom 1 isn't polished. I managed to get most of the overspray off the housing. But some wasn't coming off. This photo better highlights the difference in clarity between before and after. Front and rear Bit of flash I didn't go nuts on restoring these because they have rusted screws stuck in them which I am thinking of using a dremel to cut the plastic around it and remove them. Then use a hot glue gun to re-fill the screw holes and using a drill re-tap the hole and then thread a screw in which should re-tap the thread on it. That's the plan anyhow. Also 1 of these is a 260z type lens with the divider barely visible in the middle of the lens and has a small crack in the corner. So these are really just a make do set until I eventually pony up for some replacements. Just need to find a good driver side housing now.. But hopefully this could be useful to get someone out of trouble when going for a RWC or similar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brabham Posted June 16, 2015 Share Posted June 16, 2015 Hi Gav, rather than cutting the plastic around the rusted screw you could try a small diamond burr on a dremel to grind it out? I was going to try this method. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat240z Posted June 17, 2015 Share Posted June 17, 2015 Gee they came out pretty good though Gav. You probably just doubled their value Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 17, 2015 Author Administrators Share Posted June 17, 2015 Gee they came out pretty good though Gav. You probably just doubled their value Thanks, but I probably also just doubled the value of every second hand tail light and parker light on eBay now. haha. My 72 240z in Melbourne has 1 new lens on 1 side and 1 older lens on the other side. At the time I thought I should have bought 2 because 1 looks a bit dull and the other side is brand new. Now at least I can polish up the older 1 and make it look nearly as new. Now every time I see S30z's for sale I'm going to be critiquing their lens dullness haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted January 28, 2016 Author Administrators Share Posted January 28, 2016 Update, I received the tail light trims. Which are great, but the center post is still shorter than the originals. Even though I tried hard to find reproductions that were as original. Seems maybe they are all like this? Foreground is the original trim, background is the new trim. Perspective of photo also makes it hard to compare easily. Another perspective. I'm not sure what kind of adhesive was glued onto the original, but I might try and figure out what it is to make the new ones a bit longer on the center post. Anyway, don't bore us get to the chorus... For comparison an original trim (although admittedly this photo makes the originals look half decent). They were not the best chrome trims but also not the worst I've seen. I still haven't finished with the housings, I plan to use grey paint to remove the brownish stains on 1 of the housings. I also plan to hit the lens with some clear coat to make it really glossy and pop! But otherwise they look great in my opinion. Impatient1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted June 25, 2016 Author Administrators Share Posted June 25, 2016 So not quite satisfied with the brownish tinge left on the housings from age. I decided to get some vinyl paint in gray to restore the original housing look. The paint was probably a bit too dark gray for my liking but it does look a whole lot better now. Before: Masking + paint After photos. Left side. Right side. The pair. With the new chrome trims on there they look the business. Now truth be told this pair was actually not quite as good as another set I've got, so having learnt quite a bit about how to restore these now I might give restoration of the other set a go. Another thing I'd also like to try on the lens is to spray them with some clear coat and buff them using my dual action polisher. I reckon the gloss level would go to level 11. zeds4ever 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted August 12, 2016 Author Administrators Share Posted August 12, 2016 After seeing this tutorial I'm definitely going to clear coat my lenses. 2K clear coat may be hard to find in an aerosol can. I've actually been polishing another set (which came off HS30 00150) and were in better shape to start with than the other pair which I bought as spares years ago, but were really quite rough. They already look so much nicer than the last pair and with the clear coat should really shine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CBR Jeff Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 (edited) Gav You can get 2k clear coat in a can from ppcco for $55.00 per can. You could drive up to Warriewood and pick a can up!! http://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood39b.html Jeff Edited August 12, 2016 by CBR Jeff gav240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted August 12, 2016 Author Administrators Share Posted August 12, 2016 Gav You can get 2k clear coat in a can from ppcco for $55.00 per can. You could drive up to Warriewood and pick a can up!! http://www.ppcco.com.au/eastwood39b.html Jeff Thanks, drive? Pfft. That's what home delivery is for. I find that the amount of time spent in traffic (esp. Sydney) + fuel etc.. Delivery works out better all around. I was going to try this. https://www.bunnings.com.au/dulux-duramax-125g-2-pack-gloss-clear-coat-spray-paint_p1400741 and SuperCreep have adhesion promoters here. http://www.supercheapauto.com.au/Product/Septone-Plastic-Adhesion-Primer-400g/105783 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cozza Posted August 12, 2016 Share Posted August 12, 2016 Thanks, drive? Pfft. That's what home delivery is for. I find that the amount of time spent in traffic (esp. Sydney) + fuel etc.. Delivery works out better all around. Haha, it's not so bad if you have a running Z Gav. gav240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted March 29, 2019 Author Administrators Share Posted March 29, 2019 Bit of an update, I bought some more second hand 240z lens a year or 2 ago on eBay. They had already been messed about with by someone else sadly.. The housings in particular were a bit butchered (replaced fasteners etc..)... But I managed to get them looking pretty good. Forget what I said earlier about 600 grit sandpaper, that's too aggressive. You can get away with a light 1200 grit wet sand, then use plastic polish with a soft mop on a drill to buff them up to a nice smooth finish. I did use a dremel for the intricate areas in the inner reflector area (but the cheap piece I was using worn down and the plastic under it started to scratch up the lens a bit). So I had to sand it again and polish again (so be careful with cheap dremel fittings). So here is how I would do them, when approaching another set. Remove the lens from housing. Clean thoroughly removing the old adhesive. (hardest part). I used acetone and a cotton bud and basically a plastic scraper (and my finger nails). Takes forever... hate this part. Wet sand with 1000 or 1200 grit sandpaper being careful near the koito stampings and standards markings etc.. Macguires plastic polish with a delicate polishing mop (only need a tiny amount) and go over the same area a few times to get that nice smooth looking lens. It should look really good at this point. For intricate areas use a cotton tip dremmel piece to get into the square reflective areas, but be careful with cheap ones that may break off and expose the plastic mounting hardware under it and scratch the lens. Once you're happy with the look of the lens, the next step is optional but gives extra bang for buck. Clear coat is optional but it adds another pop or wow factor that makes them look "almost" new. I say almost because whilst it helps hide minor imperfections and gives the lens a glass like new look and feel. It won't mask all the issues, especially deeper below the surface stress/heat cracks built up over 40+ years. When applying clearcoat there is 2 things to remember 1.) Get a high quality clear coat I took a photo of mine it was by U-Pol and it was like $20/$30 a can). 2.) Applying clear coat is different to other paint, you lay this stuff on thick and wet, you don't want to layer it on gradually (dust it on) otherwise it will have an "orange" peel look. Instead you want to lay enough to give it a glossy wet look, but not too much so it starts to run. Paint in daylight, because I did a couple at night and couldn't easily see how much to apply. I got runs from putting too much on. The ones I did in daylight were much better. Also you only need 1 heavy thick coat, not multiple thinner coats (or you'll get the orange peel effect). It should dry quickly. I haven't tried light sanding out tiny dimples/imperfects and polishing up against with a DA polisher. I may try that on the lens with the crack in it I repaired. See if you can spot the 1 in the photos. This won't get them as good as OEM/NOS, but it will give new life to old lens for those who don't want to spend $500+ on reproductions (although well worth it) and wish to retain the original koito stampings and are happy with the "survivor" look over restored/perfect look. The 1 thing you'll need to spend on though is the chrome plastic bar and adhesive to fix it back into the housings. To be totally frank the amount of work cleaning up an old set is (especially removing all that crap old adhesive), in some ways I'd rather invest my time in buying a reproduction set. cracker and OdinZ 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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