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Radiator shop recommendation Brisbane


theremm

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Look up google for any f the "Adrad" authourised shops, still a few around, tell them older copper type radiator, you want top and bottom tanks sweated off, tubes rodded out and cleaned, tanks sweated on, and pressure tested, any leaks, solder up,,, please!

 

Report back here who, where, and how much!

 

Ok, whats a decent ( not chinese thinwalled rubbish) alloy one cost?

Got a price for a Desert Cooler, or a PWR ally one ????

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$160 to your door... have not heard of any of them failing, even with track use.

thats a PWR price, or a Desert Cooler price???

 

On cutting up some of the chinglong import jbbies, and check with PWR on that, they found quite often the alloy welding process and dags of weld, had blcked, r partially blcked some tubing,,,,,

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I'll call around tomorrow then.

 

I was under the impression I would be looking around $100-150 for flushing/refreshing the radiator.

 

No cracks or leaks (as far as I can see), just a blockage I would assume... Unless overheating is a common problem with stock radiator? My temperature gauge always sits right on 250deg F or very close when I push the car hard!! :/

 

If possible I would prefer to retain the original radiator. I don't use the car for track, just an enthusiastic drive around Mt. Nebo from time to time..

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thats a PWR price, or a Desert Cooler price???

 

On cutting up some of the chinglong import jbbies, and check with PWR on that, they found quite often the alloy welding process and dags of weld, had blcked, r partially blcked some tubing,,,,,

 

Have not had any experience with desert cooler, but have personally dealt with 3 failed pwr radiators from 2 different cars.

One arriving out of the box with a leak in weld.

Have used 4 of the eBay radiators now and not a single problem.

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Put a cheap E bay alloy one. that was what I did and nos probs. Then you can sell your original to cover the cost. Had my original fixed but the old ones just don't last. Car runs heaps cooler now and no fan. Check my build thread. 8) 8) 8) 8)

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Will honestly be the same price to buy a ebay alum radiator as it would cost you to get someone to flush your radiator.

 

Ahh yeah, but alloy ones stick out like dogs bollocks in your engine bay if you're wanting to stay 'original' looking. Anyway to improve the originals / reco / increase core size whilst maintaining the original look?

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The alloy one you need to watch out for the fins per inch to make sure they are comparable to what you have now.

 

When I had asked this question for my 2000 Sports I was recommended to try this mob who used to take the top and bottom off and clean the cores thoroughly.

 

I am going to drop mine off there this week to see if they still will do it this way.

 

Airrad Cooling Services Pty Ltd

94 Annerley Rd, Woolloongabba QLD 4102

 

Will report back once finished and test run in a few weeks.

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Ahh yeah, but alloy ones stick out like dogs bollocks in your engine bay if you're wanting to stay 'original' looking. Anyway to improve the originals / reco / increase core size whilst maintaining the original look?

 

I think we all know by now how much I care about keeping my cars factory Gav.. :P

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Ahh yeah, but alloy ones stick out like dogs bollocks in your engine bay if you're wanting to stay 'original' looking. Anyway to improve the originals / reco / increase core size whilst maintaining the original look?

 

Plenty can be done to improve efficiency whilst maintaining the original appearance, you just need an old school radiator shop. The guy I use has been doing it for near on 50years

 

Whilst not a Z, I have been battling a cooling issue in the old 1940 Chev.

My local radiator guy is building a somewhat custom radiator for it, it will retain the original dome headed top tank and mounting frames. To that we will fit a 3 core redback CT Dimple tube core, replacing the old 2 core. And finish it off with a 60mm bottom tank in place of the standard 37mm one, all of this will result in an increase in capacity of around 80%

 

The final result will be that whilst the core will like slightly different to the original the top tank and mounts will all be original.

 

Gav if you want his details or want to see the finished product just let me know

 

Cheers

 

PB

 

 

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Good to know Peter and when the time comes I'll be doing something like that with mine.

 

The thing to bear in mind is that technology has advanced noticeably in the last 40 years, so you need a new technology radiator in an old shape.

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Airrad Cooling Services Pty Ltd

94 Annerley Rd, Woolloongabba QLD 4102

 

I might try these guys too and look into what PB260Z suggested. Evidently I am quite keen to retain the original look in the engine bay!

 

Another question... After just converting from auto to manual, should I source a manual radiator or just block off the outlets where the auto transmission fluid goes into at the bottom of the radiator?

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Flush the auto trans lines out with bit water, dont worry about blcking off.

Most old style new rads have them anyway.

The pipe that runs inside the bottom tank, is thicker walls than the tubes up the fins, which will go porous first, before the auto cooling tube!

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Airrad Cooling Services Pty Ltd

94 Annerley Rd, Woolloongabba QLD 4102

 

Will report back once finished and test run in a few weeks.

 

Dropped it off last week (2000 Sports radiator) and needed a new triple core as mine was too far gone to clean. Not that I have a firm price yet but looking at $600-$700. A bit more than I thought. Will see how it goes.....

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Dropped it off last week (2000 Sports radiator) and needed a new triple core as mine was too far gone to clean. Not that I have a firm price yet but looking at $600-$700. A bit more than I thought. Will see how it goes.....

 

I just had one done the other week from a mob in Coopers plains for about that kind of money.

 

No one has asked theremm if it is a standard or worked engine.  More horsepower, more heat, simple physics. More heat you will require a bigger radiator I.e upgrade from a two row core to a three row core if you want to stay with the stock look. They can even squeeze a four row core between top and bottom tanks.

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I have just the stock L24. Hopefully the 2 core should be just fine then once it is all flushed out. He said the core seemed in good condition despite the blockages. I didn't get exact prices but when enquiring about upgrading the 2 core to a 3 core I was told $450 upwards. Not sure exactly what that included as I wasn't considering that option at this point in time.

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Dropped it off last week (2000 Sports radiator) and needed a new triple core as mine was too far gone to clean. Not that I have a firm price yet but looking at $600-$700. A bit more than I thought. Will see how it goes.....

Did this shop tell you that the new core will be exactly the same as the original core?

Ie same no of tubes, and same no of fins per inch?

If so then it may be that we have finally found a source for the cores the Datsun Sports originall had.

 

This original core was very efficient!

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I just had one done the other week from a mob in Coopers plains for about that kind of money.

 

No one has asked theremm if it is a standard or worked engine.  More horsepower, more heat, simple physics. More heat you will require a bigger radiator I.e upgrade from a two row core to a three row core if you want to stay with the stock look. They can even squeeze a four row core between top and bottom tanks.

 

Did they run through the Adrad book and offer you the Holden HJ-HZ V8 unit, as a stock new replacement, rather than a new core to your existing? Stock new are a fair bit less in cost due to lower labour cost, but only if you can get them.

40 year old cars can be a touch difficult getting bit for,,,,

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Did this shop tell you that the new core will be exactly the same as the original core?

Ie same no of tubes, and same no of fins per inch?

If so then it may be that we have finally found a source for the cores the Datsun Sports originall had.

 

This original core was very efficient!

 

Original was 13FPI and I think he said 112 tubes, replacement 13FPI and 108 tubes and will be drop back in place on same mounting holes.

 

That at $630 and a week to do is pretty good I believe.

 

The old one was full of rubbish so I have great expectations for the re-core....  ;)

 

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