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Radiator shop recommendation Brisbane


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#1 theremm

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 01:10 PM

Need to get my radiator flushed (I suspect) as the car runs very hot anytime I really push the thing. Have replaced thermostat.

After recommendations for radiator shops others have used in Brisbane?

#2 44014

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 01:21 PM

Will honestly be the same price to buy a ebay alum radiator as it would cost you to get someone to flush your radiator.

#3 dat2kman

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 04:32 PM

Look up google for any f the "Adrad" authourised shops, still a few around, tell them older copper type radiator, you want top and bottom tanks sweated off, tubes rodded out and cleaned, tanks sweated on, and pressure tested, any leaks, solder up,,, please!

Report back here who, where, and how much!

Ok, whats a decent ( not chinese thinwalled rubbish) alloy one cost?
Got a price for a Desert Cooler, or a PWR ally one ????

#4 44014

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 04:37 PM

$160 to your door... have not heard of any of them failing, even with track use.

#5 dat2kman

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 05:57 PM

$160 to your door... have not heard of any of them failing, even with track use.

thats a PWR price, or a Desert Cooler price???

On cutting up some of the chinglong import jbbies, and check with PWR on that, they found quite often the alloy welding process and dags of weld, had blcked, r partially blcked some tubing,,,,,

#6 theremm

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 06:07 PM

I'll call around tomorrow then.

I was under the impression I would be looking around $100-150 for flushing/refreshing the radiator.

No cracks or leaks (as far as I can see), just a blockage I would assume... Unless overheating is a common problem with stock radiator? My temperature gauge always sits right on 250deg F or very close when I push the car hard!! :/

If possible I would prefer to retain the original radiator. I don't use the car for track, just an enthusiastic drive around Mt. Nebo from time to time..

#7 44014

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 06:32 PM

thats a PWR price, or a Desert Cooler price???

On cutting up some of the chinglong import jbbies, and check with PWR on that, they found quite often the alloy welding process and dags of weld, had blcked, r partially blcked some tubing,,,,,


Have not had any experience with desert cooler, but have personally dealt with 3 failed pwr radiators from 2 different cars.
One arriving out of the box with a leak in weld.
Have used 4 of the eBay radiators now and not a single problem.

#8 peter t

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 06:37 PM

Put a cheap E bay alloy one. that was what I did and nos probs. Then you can sell your original to cover the cost. Had my original fixed but the old ones just don't last. Car runs heaps cooler now and no fan. Check my build thread. 8) 8) 8) 8)

#9 gav240z

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 08:43 PM

Will honestly be the same price to buy a ebay alum radiator as it would cost you to get someone to flush your radiator.


Ahh yeah, but alloy ones stick out like dogs bollocks in your engine bay if you're wanting to stay 'original' looking. Anyway to improve the originals / reco / increase core size whilst maintaining the original look?

#10 oldmates260z

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 09:08 PM

The alloy one you need to watch out for the fins per inch to make sure they are comparable to what you have now.

When I had asked this question for my 2000 Sports I was recommended to try this mob who used to take the top and bottom off and clean the cores thoroughly.

I am going to drop mine off there this week to see if they still will do it this way.

Airrad Cooling Services Pty Ltd
94 Annerley Rd, Woolloongabba QLD 4102

Will report back once finished and test run in a few weeks.

#11 44014

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 09:16 PM

Ahh yeah, but alloy ones stick out like dogs bollocks in your engine bay if you're wanting to stay 'original' looking. Anyway to improve the originals / reco / increase core size whilst maintaining the original look?


I think we all know by now how much I care about keeping my cars factory Gav.. :P

#12 PB260Z

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 09:39 PM

Ahh yeah, but alloy ones stick out like dogs bollocks in your engine bay if you're wanting to stay 'original' looking. Anyway to improve the originals / reco / increase core size whilst maintaining the original look?


Plenty can be done to improve efficiency whilst maintaining the original appearance, you just need an old school radiator shop. The guy I use has been doing it for near on 50years

Whilst not a Z, I have been battling a cooling issue in the old 1940 Chev.
My local radiator guy is building a somewhat custom radiator for it, it will retain the original dome headed top tank and mounting frames. To that we will fit a 3 core redback CT Dimple tube core, replacing the old 2 core. And finish it off with a 60mm bottom tank in place of the standard 37mm one, all of this will result in an increase in capacity of around 80%

The final result will be that whilst the core will like slightly different to the original the top tank and mounts will all be original.

Gav if you want his details or want to see the finished product just let me know

Cheers

PB



#13 gav240z

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 09:42 PM

Good to know Peter and when the time comes I'll be doing something like that with mine.

#14 PB260Z

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 09:44 PM

Good to know Peter and when the time comes I'll be doing something like that with mine.


The thing to bear in mind is that technology has advanced noticeably in the last 40 years, so you need a new technology radiator in an old shape.

#15 dat2kman

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 10:53 PM

Adrad supply new Holden Hx-HZ V8 manual radiators, pretty mch drop straight into a 260Z, not sure about 240Z
Top outlet pipe on the Holden radiator is smaller than the Z outlet
The V8 radhas 10% more water volume.

#16 theremm

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 11:14 PM

Airrad Cooling Services Pty Ltd
94 Annerley Rd, Woolloongabba QLD 4102


I might try these guys too and look into what PB260Z suggested. Evidently I am quite keen to retain the original look in the engine bay!

Another question... After just converting from auto to manual, should I source a manual radiator or just block off the outlets where the auto transmission fluid goes into at the bottom of the radiator?

#17 dat2kman

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 11:24 PM

Flush the auto trans lines out with bit water, dont worry about blcking off.
Most old style new rads have them anyway.
The pipe that runs inside the bottom tank, is thicker walls than the tubes up the fins, which will go porous first, before the auto cooling tube!

#18 theremm

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Posted 21 April 2015 - 02:00 PM

Ok thanks Jason!

Airrad are $90-95 (forgot to ask about GST) to flush and check over the radiator so I am just going to do that. I'm pretty confident that will be all it needs; fingers crossed.

#19 oldmates260z

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Posted 26 April 2015 - 08:53 AM


Airrad Cooling Services Pty Ltd
94 Annerley Rd, Woolloongabba QLD 4102

Will report back once finished and test run in a few weeks.


Dropped it off last week (2000 Sports radiator) and needed a new triple core as mine was too far gone to clean. Not that I have a firm price yet but looking at $600-$700. A bit more than I thought. Will see how it goes.....

#20 Mike260LW

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Posted 26 April 2015 - 09:10 AM

Dropped it off last week (2000 Sports radiator) and needed a new triple core as mine was too far gone to clean. Not that I have a firm price yet but looking at $600-$700. A bit more than I thought. Will see how it goes.....


I just had one done the other week from a mob in Coopers plains for about that kind of money.

No one has asked theremm if it is a standard or worked engine.  More horsepower, more heat, simple physics. More heat you will require a bigger radiator I.e upgrade from a two row core to a three row core if you want to stay with the stock look. They can even squeeze a four row core between top and bottom tanks.




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