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HELP: ignition wont stop..!


theremm

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Experiencing some strange things after just converting auto to manual. This is my first attempt now at starting the car since it has been changed.

 

1. Is this ignition sequence normal (see video link)? Normally with an automatic, you have to turn the key a fraction more than what I am doing in the video and physically hold the key in said position for ignition to commence; once you take your hand off the key (in an automatic) the key falls back a position and the ignition stops. Now that my car is a manual I don't have to turn the key that extra fraction to engage the ignition, and once it is engaged it will continue to attempt to start the car even when I have removed my hand from the key.

 

2. After finally getting the car running, a weird sound persists, I assume related to the above point. It sounds as though the ignition is still trying to start the car, even after it has already started? This second video shows the first time I got the car started. Note that I have since purchased a stud to block the hole in the intake manifold and this has helped slightly (though I don't believe is related to the problem), however that eery sound is still persisting.

 

My best guess is that for some reason the ignition/starter motor keeps trying to turn over/start the car, even once it is already running (due to position of key?).

Notice in this last video that I do not need to 'hold' the key in order to turn on the car

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What happens if you turn the key back one position after it starts

 

The car will turn off. The position the key is in when the car starts in the videos is the same position as where it used to be with the auto when it was running, however I had to turn and hold the key one position forward in order to get the car to turn over; after this it would then spring back to position in the videos. Now it just wont stop turning over where it is.

 

Is your key making it to the start position or is it to the point where it normally sits when the ignition is on?

 

It doesn't currently need to go to the usual start position, it just sits where it normally is when the ignition is on. If I turn forward to the usual start position, it won't start the car (or turns the car off if it is already running).

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Does your car have the bypass circuit in the engine bay, a push button switch that bypass the circuit for the starter motor?

 

I'm not sure what that looks like sorry..I'll see if I can google an image and look.

 

I should also mention that I have connected the 4 wires with one another which prevent the car from being started in anything but park in an auto. I have tried every possible configuration, as well as only 2 connected etc instead of 4.

 

The starter worked fine (and was relatively new) as well as ignition prior to swap.

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Start the car and try pulling off the wire that goes to the starter solenoid (the small one that comes from your ignition) and see if it stops trying to start. If it does then it's your ignition system if not then you could have a stuck starter solenoid.

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Hi

 

You need to wire up the inhibitor switch that came off the automatic

 

Black/White and Black/Yellow wires are for the Park/Neutral start, these wires are part of the starter motor circuit (can be used for a kill switch?) and need to be connected to each other.

Blue/Red and Red/Black are for the reverse lights and these need to be hooked up the reverse switch on the manual gearbox

 

Try this first before chasing other issues

 

That is what I had to do for my conversion

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What mick74 said. There should only be 2 wires bridged together. The other 2 wires connect to the reverse switch on the gearbox.

I had the same problem on my car.

If that still does not work it means you have a shorting circuit somewhere, find that or re-pin the wires on the back of the ignition switch.

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Ok solutions solutions..

 

Thanks all for your input and mick74 for pointing out the obvious. Silly me, I had connected the black/yellow wires with the red/black wires, as each type of coloured wire had 1 male and 1 female connector. As per Mick's comment, the black/yellow wires go together, so I will need to put a male connector on one of these wires (they both were female) - however temporarily joining these two solved the problem. The red/black wires then go to the reverse switch (which I need to solder wires onto still!!)

 

One final question then. I have 2 loose black wires which currently hang down on the left hand side of the gearbox, which previously connected to 2 x black wires on the auto gearbox, also left hand side. Does anyone know what these are for/what that thing does on the auto gearbox? I assume these wires are now no longer required.

 

Thanks again everyone :)

 

For future reference to this topic, this conversion was on a '73 240z, using a 71b gearbox.

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Connecting the 4 wires together is a clue. If these 4 wires were at the stater inhibit relay located on the fire wall then you definitely have an ignition source paying the starter. Though I believe there it's also a ground in there so that should create other issues. Also it seems that not every automatic S30 has this relay. If the wires you connected together are directly off the transmission then that is exactly what had been mentioned above the reverse light circuit is actually powering the starter. You'll likely also find that your reverse lights are on with these 4 wires tied together.

 

I have to ask what ever would make you think that those 4 wires should be tied together?

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The 2 black wires hanging in the trans tunnel is for the autos 'kickdown' switch.

 

Thanks :)

 

I have to ask what ever would make you think that those 4 wires should be tied together?

 

I thought that these 4 wires all formed part of the inhibitor switch... and that the 2 black wires (which I have now learnt are for the auto kickdown switch) were the reverse switch.

 

Silly me  :-[

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