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Disassembling the rear supsension. dont know what the part is called


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#21 Riceburner

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Posted 17 April 2015 - 11:24 PM

I bought a spindle pin puller tool from Hybridz. I broke off one threaded end on the first pin, the puller has two ends and screws onto the threads, I reversed it and used very carefully. Got both pins out using the tool and a 300mm shifter.

I may still have it floating around if anyone wants to try it, or get it copied.



#22 dat2kman

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 09:13 AM

I bought a spindle pin puller tool from Hybridz. I broke off one threaded end on the first pin, the puller has two ends and screws onto the threads, I reversed it and used very carefully. Got both pins out using the tool and a 300mm shifter.

I may still have it floating around if anyone wants to try it, or get it copied.

Could you put some pics up of it?
Ta!

I've done a ghetto one using builders threaded "booker" rod, drilled and tapped at one end, and use a bit of 400 mm long larger tube over it, a washer and nut on Booker rod at other end, but, after ripping out the tapped thread, 3 bloody times, i carefully placed it at the far end of the shed, via airmail,,,,

It probably would be better with a larger diam length of Booker rod, with the internal tapped end heat treated for a bit more strength??

#23 Riceburner

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 10:36 AM

i carefully placed it at the far end of the shed, via airmail,,,,


;D LOL! I've used that same shipping method many a time.

I'll have a look for it and try to put some pics up. It sound similar to the one you used.

#24 PeterAllen

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 11:31 AM

This was made a long time ago with bits of scrap so I'm not sure if the step inside the small sleeve is necessary. You just need to apply grease on the sliding surfaces.

The key to all this is patience - a message I posted before but ignored - soak the spindle in penetrating oil for a week. Half transmission oil and half acetone.

Aircobra. I notice you are seeking a lot of advice but you are NOT a donating member!!!!!

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#25 aircobra

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Posted 18 April 2015 - 07:20 PM

that's because i have no idea how to donate and how the forum works
but yes the support has been great, so i will find out right now

#26 PB260Z

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Posted 19 April 2015 - 01:22 PM

that's because i have no idea how to donate and how the forum works
but yes the support has been great, so i will find out right now


There is a link on the Home page.

http://www.viczcar.com

Or send Gav a PM



#27 aircobra

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Posted 19 April 2015 - 07:39 PM

txfered some cash
looks like i'l have to drill them out.
what size and type should i use?
i don't think bunings special is going to go the distance, maybe i need cobalt or ti coated

#28 aircobra

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Posted 19 April 2015 - 07:49 PM

the strut tubes were filled with some foul spelling oil, which i thought was the shocks leaking, but looking at the manual, you need to fill the tubes with "Nisaan shock oil" 290m per strut
I never heard of it? Presumably it's used to transfer heat from the shock to the outer tube?

#29 PeterAllen

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Posted 19 April 2015 - 07:59 PM

the strut tubes were filled with some foul spelling oil, which i thought was the shocks leaking, but looking at the manual, you need to fill the tubes with "Nisaan shock oil" 290m per strut
I never heard of it? Presumably it's used to transfer heat from the shock to the outer tube?


Perhaps that is referring to a wet strut? Are they wet OEM or did they have inserts for manufacture?

txfered some cash
looks like i'l have to drill them out.
what size and type should i use?
i don't think bunings special is going to go the distance, maybe i need cobalt or ti coated


If I recall the spindles are fairly soft so I would use a series of bits to gradually bore it out. You might not want to drill through as you could locate a punch at the bottom of the holes as you get to size and punch the remainder out.


#30 Riceburner

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Posted 19 April 2015 - 08:52 PM

Here's a few pics of the pin puller. The inner rod has threaded holes at each end, they go on to the spindle, the outer tube slides over the top and the nut tightens against it.

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#31 aircobra

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Posted 19 April 2015 - 09:01 PM

they looked like these
presumably 74 260z still had the short strut towers?

#32 aircobra

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Posted 19 April 2015 - 09:03 PM

forgot the link
http://www.ebay.com....lpid=107&chn=ps
http://www.ebay.com/...4-/360484133456

#33 d3c0y

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Posted 20 April 2015 - 08:27 AM

The ones we did wouldnt budge until they were completely drilled through and for one we even had to put a hacksaw blade inside it and cut through.
We used Bunnings drill bits and got the press from there too for a pretty good price.

#34 fluegel

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:08 AM

Iv'e been there basically I soaked them with CRC and then hammered them out with a brass drift. The problem in my case ,and I suspect in other cases, is not rust but the tapered lock pin(cotter pin). When I got the spindle out the flat in the middle has been skwished to one side by the spindle being tightened too much at one end pulling the spindle hard against the lock pin. So when you tighten up the nuts at each end of the spindle do it progressively each end till you get to the final torque settings and do use antiseize. I replaced the spindles with new ones anyway.

#35 aircobra

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Posted 30 June 2015 - 11:35 AM

it looks like the root cause is the rubber bushes at the ends hardening, grease drying out  and seeping water into the housing. i'll be putting plenty of fresh grease when i re-install




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