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aircobra

Disassembling the rear supsension. dont know what the part is called

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that's because i have no idea how to donate and how the forum works

but yes the support has been great, so i will find out right now

 

There is a link on the Home page.

 

http://www.viczcar.com

 

Or send Gav a PM

 

 

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txfered some cash

looks like i'l have to drill them out.

what size and type should i use?

i don't think bunings special is going to go the distance, maybe i need cobalt or ti coated

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the strut tubes were filled with some foul spelling oil, which i thought was the shocks leaking, but looking at the manual, you need to fill the tubes with "Nisaan shock oil" 290m per strut

I never heard of it? Presumably it's used to transfer heat from the shock to the outer tube?

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the strut tubes were filled with some foul spelling oil, which i thought was the shocks leaking, but looking at the manual, you need to fill the tubes with "Nisaan shock oil" 290m per strut

I never heard of it? Presumably it's used to transfer heat from the shock to the outer tube?

 

Perhaps that is referring to a wet strut? Are they wet OEM or did they have inserts for manufacture?

 

txfered some cash

looks like i'l have to drill them out.

what size and type should i use?

i don't think bunings special is going to go the distance, maybe i need cobalt or ti coated

 

If I recall the spindles are fairly soft so I would use a series of bits to gradually bore it out. You might not want to drill through as you could locate a punch at the bottom of the holes as you get to size and punch the remainder out.

 

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Here's a few pics of the pin puller. The inner rod has threaded holes at each end, they go on to the spindle, the outer tube slides over the top and the nut tightens against it.

 

post-1489-14402378796_thumb.jpg

post-1489-144023788004_thumb.jpg

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The ones we did wouldnt budge until they were completely drilled through and for one we even had to put a hacksaw blade inside it and cut through.

We used Bunnings drill bits and got the press from there too for a pretty good price.

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Iv'e been there basically I soaked them with CRC and then hammered them out with a brass drift. The problem in my case ,and I suspect in other cases, is not rust but the tapered lock pin(cotter pin). When I got the spindle out the flat in the middle has been skwished to one side by the spindle being tightened too much at one end pulling the spindle hard against the lock pin. So when you tighten up the nuts at each end of the spindle do it progressively each end till you get to the final torque settings and do use antiseize. I replaced the spindles with new ones anyway.

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it looks like the root cause is the rubber bushes at the ends hardening, grease drying out  and seeping water into the housing. i'll be putting plenty of fresh grease when i re-install

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