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further brake development


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#21 d3c0y

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 01:19 PM

Don't worry about slotting and dimples and all that crap, you don't need it with modern pads.


Talk to Brakes Direct about getting QFM pads and some top notch fluid. A lot of fade is from boiling the fluid.

#22 luvemfast

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 02:12 PM

Ive been using DBA T2 slotted rotors for a while now and im a fan. What rotors did you use as a base?

Currently have DBA's....... or was it RDA's ???
Can't quite remember really.
These have come recommended from a friend who's used them at the track. With same pads that I'll be using too.

Simon, I wouldn't worry about the booster. A 1" master cylinder isn't that heavy without one and you get much better pedal feel without it.

Also if you are going down the pads for track and pads for road path, look at a set of track and road rotors as well. That way you won't bugger the pads with contamination from the other set if you don't clean the rotors with a sand between swapping the pads, and then you have to bed the pads to the rotors again to get the best performance.

For your car I would look at getting something like Hawk HPS or Blues, that will work on the track, but are still good enough for the road if you are aware that they need a little heat to work well, but cold take a little longer and will be noisier than a road pad. Other brand pads, I would look at something about the equivalent of those compounds that will do both track and road, track optimum, road compromised.

All good points. I think the pads will be similar to Project Mu, by reports.
Would you use them on the road Gareth?

Don't worry about slotting and dimples and all that crap, you don't need it with modern pads.
Talk to Brakes Direct about getting QFM pads and some top notch fluid. A lot of fade is from boiling the fluid.

Apparently there's been a bit of R&D put into these rotors. So will be the guinee pig for Z's I guess.
I'll be flushing out the brake fluid me thinks and putting some Castrol race fluid I've had laying around.

#23 luvemfast

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 02:13 PM

ps-
It's good to be out in the garage again, working on cars and hitting the track.
oh.... And being a bit more involved back here!

8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

#24 PZG302

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 07:15 PM

Unless it is still in a bottle with an unbroken seal, don't be using brake fluid that has been lying around the shed.

If you have to buy new fluid, the Penrite race fluid, was called sin, not sure what it's called now, will do what you want to do.

#25 44014

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 08:16 PM

After talking to Greg at brakes direct I wouldn't even think about running castrol brake fluid on the track, the guy sells the stuff and calls it rubbish.
You want proper race fluid.
And really if your serious just buy t3 rotors and yeah as Jake said QFM race pads.
It costs more for a reason.

Cheers Doug

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#26 dat2kman

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 08:38 PM

Plus 1 for Penrite SIN brake fluid.
Disagree on the QFM pads, get them hot, they turn to apple crumble chunks.
Have sets here just like that.
Matty sggested the Hawks.
Have a look to see if Lcas TRW supply a pad, they can take a beating.

Once you select a pad stick with it, dont change them, as the compound will embed into rotor, if changing pads give rotors an onboard disc skim, to get fresh steel.

#27 benny

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 08:43 PM

Currently have DBA's....... or was it RDA's ???
Can't quite remember really.
These have come recommended from a friend who's used them at the track. With same pads that I'll be using too. All good points. I think the pads will be similar to Project Mu, by reports.
Would you use them on the road Gareth?
Apparently there's been a bit of R&D put into these rotors. So will be the guinee pig for Z's I guess.
I'll be flushing out the brake fluid me thinks and putting some Castrol race fluid I've had laying around.



They look like RDA's. The T2 and T3 DBA rotors give good bang for buck.

#28 Gareth. J.

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 08:53 PM

I use the nulon Xtreme brake fluid, but the penrite race fluid looks to have the highest boiling temp. Nulon is 290degree and penrite 312degree.

I have to agree with Jason, the QFM pads in the front of my car cooked and had big brake fade. The pad material had cracks through it everywhere. They seem ok in the rear but they are very dusty even with light road use. I'd like something else once this set wears out.

The Project Mu pads are fine for road use.

#29 luvemfast

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Posted 24 February 2015 - 09:20 PM

The castrol fluid I have, is sealed.
I've been using Penrite Sin for years now.
And Lucas TRW pads.

Sooooo......... It seems that I've been doing what people are suggesting.


#30 d3c0y

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 10:02 AM

I guess if you have the basic recipe then that points to a problem in the braking system, ie water in the brake fluid or previously boiled fluid, insufficient cooling etc.

#31 dat2kman

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 11:57 AM

Baaaccckkk,, to the original post,,,,
Its a possible imbalance issue,
Due to either pedal falling off, due to problem with front rotors,
Or fluid is old and lost its full properties...

Note comment about "as day went on, rear got loose going into corners"
That sounds like rear brakes are working harder than fronts, and on verge of locking up, but not quite, and the tail of car gets "loose" or squirmy.
The fronts have lost some ability.

Complete fluid change required, and fresh set of same pads, front and back.
Go and test/track it again..
Has issue gone/changed/still present?

Thinking I need to up my braking power.
Years ago the brake master cyl was rebuilt and re sleeved larger bore diameter. But I've never really been happy with the pedal. Also when you press the brake pedal, there has always been turbulence in the front reservoir, which is for the rear brakes.
Last trip to Sandown, the pedal felt worse as the day progressed and eventually the steering would vibrate under braking. I suspect the front rotors are warped.
The rear of the car feels loose coming into corners too.
I think the rear brakes aren't working sufficiently, increasing demand to fronts. Upsetting balance of car, due to nose diving.

I have aluminium 4 spot calipers up front with Ø296mm x 30mm ventilated, slotted rotors up front.
Standard series 2 280ZX slotted rotors and calipers on the rear.
S/S braided lines all round.
TRW pads.
http://www.viczcar.c...tach=5360;image
http://www.viczcar.c...tach=5362;image


Would an R32 skyline brake booster and master cyl be a viable option?

After recommendations for a good all rounder brake pad too.



#32 d3c0y

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Posted 25 February 2015 - 06:52 PM

I agree  8)




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