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luvemfast

further brake development

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Plus 1 for Penrite SIN brake fluid.

Disagree on the QFM pads, get them hot, they turn to apple crumble chunks.

Have sets here just like that.

Matty sggested the Hawks.

Have a look to see if Lcas TRW supply a pad, they can take a beating.

 

Once you select a pad stick with it, dont change them, as the compound will embed into rotor, if changing pads give rotors an onboard disc skim, to get fresh steel.

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Currently have DBA's....... or was it RDA's ???

Can't quite remember really.

These have come recommended from a friend who's used them at the track. With same pads that I'll be using too. All good points. I think the pads will be similar to Project Mu, by reports.

Would you use them on the road Gareth?

Apparently there's been a bit of R&D put into these rotors. So will be the guinee pig for Z's I guess.

I'll be flushing out the brake fluid me thinks and putting some Castrol race fluid I've had laying around.

 

 

They look like RDA's. The T2 and T3 DBA rotors give good bang for buck.

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I use the nulon Xtreme brake fluid, but the penrite race fluid looks to have the highest boiling temp. Nulon is 290degree and penrite 312degree.

 

I have to agree with Jason, the QFM pads in the front of my car cooked and had big brake fade. The pad material had cracks through it everywhere. They seem ok in the rear but they are very dusty even with light road use. I'd like something else once this set wears out.

 

The Project Mu pads are fine for road use.

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The castrol fluid I have, is sealed.

I've been using Penrite Sin for years now.

And Lucas TRW pads.

 

Sooooo......... It seems that I've been doing what people are suggesting.

 

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I guess if you have the basic recipe then that points to a problem in the braking system, ie water in the brake fluid or previously boiled fluid, insufficient cooling etc.

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Baaaccckkk,, to the original post,,,,

Its a possible imbalance issue,

Due to either pedal falling off, due to problem with front rotors,

Or fluid is old and lost its full properties...

 

Note comment about "as day went on, rear got loose going into corners"

That sounds like rear brakes are working harder than fronts, and on verge of locking up, but not quite, and the tail of car gets "loose" or squirmy.

The fronts have lost some ability.

 

Complete fluid change required, and fresh set of same pads, front and back.

Go and test/track it again..

Has issue gone/changed/still present?

 

Thinking I need to up my braking power.

Years ago the brake master cyl was rebuilt and re sleeved larger bore diameter. But I've never really been happy with the pedal. Also when you press the brake pedal, there has always been turbulence in the front reservoir, which is for the rear brakes.

Last trip to Sandown, the pedal felt worse as the day progressed and eventually the steering would vibrate under braking. I suspect the front rotors are warped.

The rear of the car feels loose coming into corners too.

I think the rear brakes aren't working sufficiently, increasing demand to fronts. Upsetting balance of car, due to nose diving.

 

I have aluminium 4 spot calipers up front with Ø296mm x 30mm ventilated, slotted rotors up front.

Standard series 2 280ZX slotted rotors and calipers on the rear.

S/S braided lines all round.

TRW pads.

index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3326.0;attach=5360;image

index.php?action=dlattach;topic=3326.0;attach=5362;image

 

 

Would an R32 skyline brake booster and master cyl be a viable option?

 

After recommendations for a good all rounder brake pad too.

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