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Setting up a 12V test bench for checking wiring etc..?


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#1 gav240z

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 08:56 PM

Hi Guys,
Does anyone have recommendations on setting up a 12v DC test bench? Any recommended power supplies? At this stage I basically just want to test my Rally Clock and Oscillator box but at some point would like to test other issues etc..

I found this DIY kit.
https://www.sparkfun.../products/12867
and this
http://www.google.co...730391405?hl=en
and JayCar has some kits i think...
http://search.jaycar...power&view=list

But I'm not sure if it has everything I need or there is a simpler / cheaper device I could use for just doing a simple test? Just wondering what others use / have used?



#2 Lightmaster240z

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Posted 15 February 2015 - 10:40 PM

Gav if you are after somthing from Jaycar call me before you buy it  8)

#3 George

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 08:10 AM

http://www.jaycar.co...w.asp?ID=SB2486

or

http://www.jaycar.co...w.asp?ID=MB3522

Will do for simple stuff like the radio/clock/lights etc

I've got both and it's what I used to test the radio I restored and the clocks. I've left the clock running on the battery for several days to fine tune the movement. Works fine.


#4 Cozza

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 12:15 PM

For a cheap option, you could use a transformer from a common house downlight .
The voltage would probably not be exactly 12v but nor is a cars system.

I got one you can have Gav. Drop me a PM if you're interested

Mick


#5 rb240

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 01:06 PM

A computer power supply is a cheap option, with a lot of current available at +12V.  You could use the sparkfun kit to convert to banana sockets, or just add your own connectors.

#6 Lightmaster240z

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 02:02 PM

Jaycar option about $49.00 down light tranny $10.00  :)

#7 rb240

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 02:44 PM

Downlight transformers usually output 12VAC, don't they?

#8 Lightmaster240z

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 03:35 PM

Yes they do but you now have 12v LED driver on the market and 24 Volt driver as well with different amp out put. :) 

#9 PB260Z

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Posted 16 February 2015 - 07:45 PM

Hi Gav

I just use my jumper pack and a set multimeter leads, not the most elegant solution but meant I didn't need to buy anything. If you want to borrow it for a short term send me a PM.

Cheers

PB

#10 Six_Shooter

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Posted 17 February 2015 - 04:58 AM

I meant to reply to this before now, but anyway...

If this is just for this one time, I wouldn't invest anything into new equipment, and just use a battery from the car, if you needed to actually power something on the bench. I would simply connect a couple jumpers to the battery terminals (fuse protected of course), and power the devices that you are testing. If need be you can connect a battery charger to help maintain voltage, but realize that most battery chargers are noisy and can cause issues with some of the more sensitive electronics out there, luckily almost nothing in an S30 is something I would consider "sensitive".

Also like PB260Z, I have and on occasion do use a jumper pack, when I'm not at my bench to test devices. They are pretty good because they have good current capabilities, and many times have a power socket on the that can be used for a small power plug with alligator type clips along with fuse protection in the tip of the power plug.

Most of the time, especially when testing harnesses, a power supply is not even needed, but a multi-meter with a continuity and resistance measurements is all that is needed.

If you plan to use this more often than just for this one project, then by all means get something that has more options. Adjustable voltage output can help to determine if a low voltage issue occurs with a device, although there are other ways to create an adjustable voltage output without a proper adjustable power supply if need be. Current limiting is also something that is handy to have, if you suspect that a device has failed in such a way that it is drawing more current than it should be, current limiting will allow you to set up a limit that should be just beyond what that device should draw and if it goes over, the output gets shut off and protects you and your power supply.

I have a number of power supplies that I use on my bench, 2 are fixed voltage at 13.8V rated with a 3A peak output, and one that I built that has adjustable voltage output and current limit of 500mA. Surprisingly I use the adjustable power supply way more than the other 2 for what I do, some of which is car related. I also have a 75A 12V power supply that I don't have hooked up currently, but plan to in the future. The 75A supply is WAY overkill for most things and only have it because I kept it after closing a car audio shop that I owned.

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#11 gav240z

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 11:50 AM

Thanks for all the replies and feedback guys, if it's 1 thing I'm not confident with it's electrical stuff on cars. I do recall some of the fundamental stuff I learnt in my Computer Science degree but it's always been my weakest skill. Programming I can do bit and pieces, mechanical work I'll figure it out and it's usually just using the right tools, body work I'm learning and getting better at, but electrical stuff apart from wiring up a car stereo I'm always a bit anxious about it all...

Anyway in the end I went to JayCar (local electronics shop) and spoke to a guy there who suggested the AA battery set up as an easy way to go. I assume AA batteries are about 1.5V each x 8 = 12V. I wired in a basic glass fuse which was about 1/2 an amp (as recommended by Ron).

Details and video of clocks to be found here.
http://www.viczcar.c....html#msg165767



#12 PB260Z

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Posted 08 March 2015 - 06:14 PM

electrical stuff apart from wiring up a car stereo I'm always a bit anxious about it all...


If you need a hand just sing out, always happy to help.

Cheers

PB

#13 PB260Z

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Posted 27 March 2016 - 08:52 AM

Hi

Old thread revival.
Spotted these in Jaycar yesterday - not exactly cheap, but regulated and 12A (160w) will run most things.

http://www.jaycar.co...Supply/p/MP3079

Cheers

PB




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