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The 4 year build 260z LS1


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#41 red76z

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 05:50 PM

Thanks dat240z
The luvered inspection lids get rid of the engine bay heat really well.  I have only had the car on stands to test them with a pedestal fan feeding the radiator and the amount of heat that comes out of these vents is about 90deg. And it keeps the hood temp down quite a bit. Plus they look cool to.

#42 red76z

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Posted 16 June 2015 - 07:14 PM

Unwrapped the car today after the paint job. It turned out perfect. Now let the paint harden up for a week then bolt it back together then a bit more sanding, priming then paint.
The trim should be ready this week. Went from brown to black.

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#43 red76z

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 12:02 AM

I got to spend a few more hours in the shed today fitting all of the guts back into the two door shell's.
When I pulled them apart about 2 years ago I took a large number of photos to be my memory when re fitting was to be done, but they were not required and the whole process went quite smooth. If any one is to pull the door apart the sequence is as follows.
260z 2+2 guide
240z should be the same except for the removal of the upperdoor handle. as is does not exist.
1. Remove the window steel frame work be careful as the bolts at the front of the frame work will more than likely brake off due to rust.
2. Undo the 4 screws holding the glass to the winder mechanism.  Wind the window up and down to gain access to these.
3. Pull glass out.
4. Remove the glass guide rails front and rear, 3 x 17mm nuts each side. DO NOT adjust the height adaptors as this will slow down reassembly.
5. Remove the four screws holding the winder mechanism and the 2 screws that stop it from swivelling located on the inner door skin then remove complete unit.
6. Unclip the plastic clip from the rod that connects on to the door lock. Then remove the latch assembly 3 small philips head screws on the outer skin this will allow it to fall into the door frame. Undo the upper and lower door handles screws and disconect the lower handle from the long rod that runs up to the door latch, then undo the 2 pivot point bolts for this rod and the upper handle rod.
All of these components Will come out the large hole at the bottom of the door, except the glass.
Assembly is the reverse of this sequence
I hope this will help save you some time on your builds.

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#44 Gordo

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Posted 29 June 2015 - 06:42 AM

Very nice Scott. I bet you can't wait to get it on the road.

#45 Howdy

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 11:31 AM

Man this things gunna fly. Nice work, love the paintwork and your on the home stretch. Hey Scott, when you did your engine mounts, did you take them off the rails or from the xmember? - from the photos it looks like they come off the xmember. Also, I really hate to bring this up at this point but those outer unis won't last, I know this from experience, breaking several with only a turbo 2.8, near standard height, easy clutch and never any burnouts etc. They will take some torque but eventually you will run over a small bump while accelerating and they'll go bang and bash around under the floor doing damage to the floor and suspension.

#46 YosemiteZed

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 05:17 PM

Well Scott I have to say that this is an impressive build
all the attention to to the smallest detail from the suspension / brakes and through to the panels and paint.

I have enjoyed your posts and thanks for taking the time to share it with us

I noticed that all the nuts and bolts and window/door  mechanisms appear to be all nice and "SHINY" did you have them electroplated or did you do some other magic

Cheers
Phil


#47 red76z

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 10:34 PM

Thanks Phill
My magic trick with all of the old rusty bolts is to replace them with new ones.
One of the perks owing a automotive tool shop. As I have heaps of oem bolts in stock.
It is all the small things that make the most impact on the build.
I will post a few more progress pics in the next couple of days to keep you up to date.

#48 red76z

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Posted 04 July 2015 - 11:06 PM

Thanks Howdy.
The engine mounts just bolt on to the origional tower mounst of the zed.  They are from a croud in Texas called John's Cars.
http://www.brokenkit...m/zcar/zcar.htm
They do a full mount to suit the Z cars.
In regards to the outer uni joints only time will tell. Mick24Oau has been running the same thing in his LS1 400hp 240Z with out any problems yet. The hub spline should be the weak point in theory.

#49 Howdy

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 10:21 AM

Thanks Scott, that's awesome, no need to weld mounting points to the rails. I hate doing anything that can't be reversed back to original. Good luck with the unis, I found original unis seemed stronger than aftermarket replacements.

#50 Gordo

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 11:24 AM

Great thread Scott. Looking forward to the next post.

#51 red76z

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 08:07 PM

Got to spend some time on the re assembly part of the build today. Drivers door and both front guards and headlight buckets all bolted back on.
It is amazing just how long it takes to get the alignment of all panels just perfect again. Still a small amount of tweaking left.
Then touch up a few small low points, and spray the whole thing again with primer and sand with some 800grit wet n dry paper then colour.
I picked up the interior the other day and it looks awesome. All of the ugly brown is gone and replaced with black.
Door trim, rear seat, head lining, gear stick boot and hand brake boot and other parts all a really neet black vinyl. Then all the existing carpet a new car style black. I will put some pics up soon when installed.

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#52 Gordo

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Posted 05 July 2015 - 08:44 PM

Awsome Scott, once the painting is finished , it will all come together nicely. Lots of shed time coming up.  lol.

#53 Scando

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Posted 07 July 2015 - 06:22 AM

In regards to the outer uni joints only time will tell. Mick24Oau has been running the same thing in his LS1 400hp 240Z with out any problems yet. The hub spline should be the weak point in theory.


What uni joints are you running?  The previous owner of my car had busted two standard ones with about 300hp before I bought it.  We put in the heavy duty Hardie Spicer ones and I've never busted one with 450hp......touch wood.

#54 red76z

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Posted 07 July 2015 - 08:28 PM

Still running the standard 260z outer uni joints with the commodore inner cv grafted on.
It held up to years of punishment with the previous 4.5l V8.
If it blows up Then it will be upgraded.
Thanks for the suggestions guys.

#55 red76z

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Posted 30 July 2015 - 11:23 PM

I have finally finished sanding the car in preparation to paint.
This would have to be one of the most repetitive jobs I have had to do on this build and I am glad it is over for now. The colour will be sprayed on Monday.  Years of prep will now be    rewarded with a shiny new paint job, I can not wait.
Pics will be poste on that day.
The poor shed looks like a bomb has gone off leaving white dust every where .
Speek soon.

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#56 red76z

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Posted 11 August 2015 - 11:55 PM

Finally the day has come and the Z is painted.
19 coats
Base, metallic, candy then clear.
It took about 16 hours to complete this job.
I am going to let it sit for a week and then it is final assembly time. The fun is about to start.

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#57 gav240z

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Posted 11 August 2015 - 11:58 PM

Absolutely stunning, can't wait to see it assembled. Good work.

#58 600Z

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 12:05 AM

That looks fantastic

#59 dat240z

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Posted 12 August 2015 - 09:38 AM

Mate, you should be extremely proud of your efforts and the pending outcome. This thing will be stunning. It's definitely a great moment of progress when the colour is shot

#60 red76z

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Posted 13 August 2015 - 07:52 PM

Thanks guys for the comments. I am taking next week off work to put the z back together.
A bit of quality shed time. Looking forward to it.




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