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Jester roll cage?


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#1 zzzzed

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 12:36 PM

Has any one delt with this company and would this cage be able to be cams approved?
Details are below.
I only plan to do sprints and hill climbs.
Can have it landed for under $1000 and then fit it myself.

http://www.jegs.com/...0&storeId=10001


4 and 8 point roll bars manufactured from 1-3/4'' x .134-wall mild steel tubing
10 and 12 point roll cages manufactured from 1-5/8'' x .134-wall mild steel tubing
Includes 6'' x 6'' x 1/8'' mounting plates
Some tube ends in some kits are notched while most tube ends are not notched for a better custom fit in your particular set-up. This ''extra material'' provides you some leeway for a great fit and easier installation.
8, 10, and 12 point cages exceed NHRA and IHRA standards
Complete, easy-to-follow installation instructions included
Welding required

#2 PZG302

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 12:56 PM

Check Schedule J of the CAMS manual, it will specify the material and wall thickness as well as the design of the cage to comply. I doubt very much that JEGS will supply you with the papaerwork for CAMS compliance, let alone even know what a CAMS is.....

At the $1000 mark you could easily get a local company like Brown Davies or Bonds or AGI to do one.

Even hit up Lurch if he has time to do a fully complied and signed off cage.

Going local will be a lot less of a headache than ordering through the states. Also on a lot of their "car" shows unless its a full on NASCAR or SCCA type cage they can be very hit and miss in what they do.

Also the US standards mean diddly squat out here if they are not certified as FIA with the correct paper work.

#3 zzzzed

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 01:10 PM

Another option would be that I buy a decent pipe bender and knock one upy self.

#4 zzzzed

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 01:17 PM

Bond so a weld in kit for $1500

#5 RLY240

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 02:38 PM

CAMS manual says 1.75x0.095 for the main and lateral roll bars and 1.5x0.095 for other components.
CDS or CDW in 350N/mmsq tensile strength.
Looks like the Jester complies by size but you would need to clarify the tensile strength rating of their mild steel.

You can build your own cage as long as you follow the diagrams in the CAMS manual and use the right material.  Then you sign the paperwork. Simple.
Can you buy a suitable bender and mandrels for that kind of money?

There's no reason why you can't do this yourself either with a pre fab kit or bending it all yourself if you have the time.
Roger

Schedule J  http://docs.cams.com...le-J-2014-1.pdf


#6 Mooa42

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 03:53 PM

I'd think long and hard before doing your own, the difference between a good cage and a bad cage is as much about the fit as it is the design and welding. One wrong bend in the main hoop could loose you any cost savings you were hoping to achieve.  At least if you try it yourself you will appreciate why people charge so much:)

A good cage design and fit will have minimal if no gaps between hoops and body, I've seen a bond cage fitting so well that the front legs could be welded straight to the A pillars, (in a WRX) and I've seen so called professional jobs so badly done that I could fit my wrist between the A pillar and the front legs. You don't have much room in a Z so a good design is paramount, especially around your head/helmet area.

If you want to get really serious you can actually design your own cage outside the parameters of the CAMS manual provided you provide the proper engineering to prove it will still withstand the forces required by the FIA. (As you might guess, this is an expensive process)

There are some good cage builders in SA too so ask around locally.

The last cage I had done came from the UK (not a Z ) and I had it tig welded in here in Vic through Peter at Freak Motorsport Fabrications. I can't recommend his work highly enough.(He's on facebook)

Bond bolt in's are a good thing and I've seen many of these fitted but nothing like a Bond weld in, you get what you pay for.







#7 zzzzed

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 05:51 PM

I am quite confident that I can so a top quality cage my self. I am no stranger fabrication as it is a big part oft every day job. All I need is the correct tools for the job.
My next question is
Has any one seen these benders in action. I have heard they will do the job but am unsure.

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#8 tir33d

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 08:56 PM

Rod Andrews (Andrews Race Cars ) uses a machine similar to the above. His is a J2 or something. Pulls clean bends. Problem is the machine aint to expensive, its the dies. Prob $1600 to set up for one size. $400 for each die after.
to get the main hoop and front legs tight takes experience. Worth buying a kit that has legs and hoop done then just cut and notch the rest.
My last bundle of steel cost about $700 and came with necessary paperwork.


#9 zzzzed

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 09:14 PM

I guess once you factor in the price of the steel on top of the machine, a bond cage is actually cheaper 

#10 EVIL_denver

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 09:33 PM

Have you thought about getting someone to bend the tubing for you?? Then you weld it together yourself?? There is a writeup on hybridZ which also shows the exact dimensions for the main hoop (the hardest thing to fabricate)

#11 Zedman240®

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 09:42 PM

A Brown Davis cage was fitted to my 240 at a cost of around $1400 with extra intrusion bars but this was many years ago (and they kindly dented the roof from the inside out exactly above the main hoop bends). Price may have gone up a tad by now.

#12 zzzzed

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 09:49 PM

Have you thought about getting someone to bend the tubing for you?? Then you weld it together yourself?? There is a writeup on hybridZ which also shows the exact dimensions for the main hoop (the hardest thing to fabricate)



I will more than likely go a bond cage. They do the complete pre bent weld in kits. Now I  thinking they work out
Double the price of the jegs cage, but attest I know what I am getting.

#13 PZG302

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 10:20 PM

Also talk to AGI, they do some very good work with both weld in and bolt in kits at a good price, and Rod Andrews does a good weld in kit as well, and has a good reputation for his work.

Plus check out your local cage builders, they may do something at a great price and being local can tweek to suit.

#14 tir33d

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 10:25 PM

OK  so is the kit all cut to length and notched, I doubt it. If this is the case, call Andrews race cars and see if he has a template, pretty sure he does. His kit will be lengths around 2m long with markings to show what each should be cut up to.
You can get pipe notchers for a bit over $100 then buy a 40mm holesaw and you can get away with mounting notcher in a vice and us a power drill (although a drill press would be better)
Be warned, I don't think the bond kit will be cut and notched. Considering Andrews supplies Bond with a lot of their raw material there is money to be saved. Don't quote me, but I think he will be around $900-$1000. for all the metal necessary.
andrewsracecars.com.au


#15 zzzzed

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Posted 19 August 2014 - 10:31 PM

Thanks. I will look in to it.

#16 zed240au

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 09:02 AM

I contacted Bond about 2 weeks ago and they quoted me $480 for a half cage bent and ready to weld in plus freight
Not sure on your state rules but here in Tasmania a full cage would make a car unregisterable for normal street registration We do have special interest rally rego down here which allows cars with full cages and other race modifications to be registered but very limited usage ( only allowed to be driven to events workshops for repairs and promotion events) Might be worth checking with your transport if u want to still use car on street
As 240z is 2 seater under our rules can fit half cage and still have full registration
I did build my own half cage 20 years ago but having done it id recommend getting someone to do it or buy a pre bent kit lot headaches in building one

Mick

#17 zzzzed

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Posted 20 August 2014 - 12:34 PM

Thanx mate. I don't plan on keeping my 240z on the road. It is already not road worthy with the rb25 and cold not be bothered getting it engineered for the road.




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