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Breakdown in Clem 7


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#1 sexual_sushi

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 11:05 AM

So I broke down in the clem 7 this morning :(

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Was driving fine, hit the slight incline and I was overtaking some people and then lost power and came to a stop. Car would wind over but wouldn't start, tried it again after waiting for about 20 minutes and still nothing.

Got a tow to work and had the car off the truck and kicked it over and it started fine.

I'm assuming fuel but I'm pretty sure there is at least half a tank of fuel and filter looks fairly clean (I will replace though), anything else I can look at? Just don't want to break down in peak hour again if it is an intermittent problem.

#2 George

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 11:10 AM

Ouch, looks like a terrible place to break down. Did they send out someone to check on you or did you have to call a towie? I have always wondered if they keep an eye on the cameras and send a vehicle out if someone breaks down in a tunnel.

#3 sexual_sushi

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 11:28 AM

Yeah worst spot, only 400 metres from my exit too! A few people came up behind me at speed which was a bit hairy but then I noticed the closed lane sign change after about 30-60 seconds and speed was slowed to 40 around me. A guy came out with a hazard truck after maybe 10 minutes but the tunnels own tow truck was out of action so they called a tow company to come and get me. Ended up taking about 30 mins to get the tow truck there (he said they didn't tell him exactly where I was and told him wrong information so he was looking in the wrong spot).

But anyway just took it for a drive and it ran fine, filled it up and it took 24 litres so still had about half a tank. It's a l26 (in a 240z), with round top su carbs and the 280zx electric dizzy. I hate not being able to drive it with confidence  :-\

#4 dat2kman

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 11:29 AM

Shaun, were they raindrops on windscreen?
Have a look inside dizzy cap for any moisture, or around coil end.
With the rain yesterday, after our dry spell, a bit of condensation could have gotten in, and carbon tracking resulted.

Fuel pick up in tank is still stock? A clear $2 plastic filter at tank, and a torch to see if its full, when it happens again!
After 30+ years a bit of rust flake from condensation rusting on tank roof, is all it takes to block flow.

#5 Roberto

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 11:31 AM

Could it be a failing ignition module? 

#6 d3c0y

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 12:16 PM

^^ This was my first thought too.

#7 sexual_sushi

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 12:16 PM

Thanks guys.

Jason, that was just dust spots from when it was out in the rain for a few minutes a couple of weeks back. It was undercover under the house where it had been since last weekend. I'll have a look at the dizzy and give it a clean out. I also have a new dizzy cap at home so I might chuck that on too. Yeah I think fuel pick up is stock. I'll check that out tonight :)

Roberto, I was wondering that too. I do have a spare 2nd hand unit at home so I might swap that in and keep the current one in the glovebox just incase. I assume you can't buy the modules new? What do you do to replace, go after market ignition module? I guess there is no way to test it if it is currently working fine?

#8 44014

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 12:21 PM

^^ This was my first thought too.

DITTO!
Ignition module gets hot stops making spark.
cools down and works again.

#9 sexual_sushi

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 12:26 PM

Would it be a sign of it "wearing out", ie would it be more susceptible to heat as they wear out? I had only been driving for about 10 minutes with a 5 minute warm up. So it would have been at temperature, but not for long and I was doing 80k at the time so would have had a little bit of air flow through the engine bay.

I tired it again after it had been sitting for about 20 minutes and no good, but by the time I got it to work (maybe 30-40 minutes after breakdown) it started.

#10 44014

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 12:31 PM

Would it be a sign of it wearing out, ie would it be more susceptible to heat as they wear out? I had only been driving for about 10 minutes with a 5 minute warm up. So it would have been at temperature, but not for long and I was doing 80k at the time so would have had a little bit of air flow through the engine bay.

I tired it again after it had been sitting for about 20 minutes and no good, but by the time I got it to work (maybe 30-40 minutes after breakdown) it started.

Yep, that's what ignition modules do.
get hot resistance increases they short out and don't produce any more spark.
the 280zx ones are very pricey so probably a good time to upgrade to a petronix or something similar.
if it was fuel it would not be so instant you would of noticed a bit of spluttering or lack of power as the bowls drained.

#11 dat2kman

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 01:05 PM

The white pastey goop behind that module is needed for the conduct of heat out of it into the metal base plate it is mounted on.
Available from electronics parts suppliers like Jaycar.

#12 44014

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 01:13 PM

The white pastey goop behind that module is needed for the conduct of heat out of it into the metal base plate it is mounted on.
Available from electronics parts suppliers like Jaycar.

thermal paste.
Also used on processors in computers.
but you cant repair the module there a throw away item.

#13 sexual_sushi

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 02:34 PM

Thanks for the info guys, very helpful.

I was just at repco and they can get aftermarket replacement modules for $116 just FYI if anyone is looking. I have 2 spare Nissan ones at home so might try them first.


#14 Roberto

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 02:45 PM

You can use Chevy HEI modules as they are much cheaper and work just as well.

http://www.zhome.com...tech/gmhei.html

I did this many years ago and it worked fine.

#15 gav240z

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 02:53 PM

I agree I had a similar problem with my 280zx E12-80 distributor module a few years ago. It just died in the arse, then after towing it home and leaving it a day or so it fired up no problems. Drove to my mates place and as I turn into his street about 15 mins from home it died again.

Show us a photo of the aftermarket module if you get 1? Sounds like a decent price

#16 Retro Z

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 03:29 PM

I'm using a tridon TIM036 (j121 generic)
Used on old hyundais and mitsubishis.

Costs $10-$30 for brand new modules so its cheap enough to have a few spares in the glovebox.

http://www.aliexpres.../852207423.html

And make sure you make a heatsink or use the paste as suggested.

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#17 sexual_sushi

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 04:20 PM

Do these modules have different characteristics, ie might need to be tuned differently?

#18 sexual_sushi

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 04:25 PM

Gav, I saw a stock photo of one on the computer screen at repco, looks the same as the stock one (shape and everything) but of course that is just a representation and may look different in person. I was surprised that they could get it in within a day too! I will post a photo if I get it but I reckon I'll try my ones at home first.

If only the Z had hazard lights I would feel a little better driving around ;)

#19 peter t

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 04:35 PM

Gav, I saw a stock photo of one on the computer screen at repco, looks the same as the stock one (shape and everything) but of course that is just a representation and may look different in person. I was surprised that they could get it in within a day too! I will post a photo if I get it but I reckon I'll try my ones at home first.

If only the Z had hazard lights I would feel a little better driving around ;)

That's scary man. I have about three Hazard switches but none fit the loom. I think a visit to a car sparkie is on the cards. I have the Crow ing system and find it OK.  8)

#20 sexual_sushi

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 05:53 PM

Thoughts on this? Judging by the heat in the ignition module, I would have thought that would have been more conducted from the engine rather than from the functioning of the unit?

note, some recommend using a heat sink compound between the body and ignition module to transfer heat from the transistors as heat is what kills them.
Wayne and I feel that the compound may couple engine heat into the ignition module and also decrease conductivity of the the modules ground through the two points.
A neat solution would be to mount a heat sink on the ignition module and mount it remotely then run a separate ground to the car's body.


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