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Proud new owner :) Imported 1976 Fairlady


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#41 Zedman240®

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Posted 07 July 2014 - 08:46 PM

RE the distributor on that Fairlady, last of them I saw the ignitor module was mounted on the passenger side kick panel. It was a largeish black box with another Mitsubishi symbol on it. A lot of bizarre electrical items on that zed!

#42 gav240z

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 04:33 PM

Regarding your distributor here is a thread I started a while ago on this type.
http://www.viczcar.c...php?topic=935.0

It looks the same as the 1 I have.

It can develop a mis if there is slack/play in the distributor shaft, but only way to test is remove it and give it a wiggle like you would a turbo for excessive play.

In the second photo I posted you can see the 'base plate' and the shaft has a wheel with teeth on it (like cogs). If those touch it will arch and cause a misfire. So the shaft should not have enough play in it to touch that base plate at any point in it's rotation.

Do you hear a slight miss at idle? Like every so often it sputters? Does it still misfire at higher rpm or misfire in a way that is noticeable?

#43 Yo-Yo

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 08:23 PM

Ever since I replaced the air filter the car has been running smooth as, no misfire or anything.
I won't know for sure until I take it out on the open road again when I take it back to the engineer.

It only came up driving back from the engineer last weekend, it would misfire at about 2,000-3,000 rpm at accel & decel but it was intermittent.

I noticed too my idle revs drop by about 500rpm when I am pressing on the brakes for eg. stopped at a red light, so I might need to check the grounding as I'm losing power when the brake lights are on

#44 d3c0y

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:30 PM

They only idle at 800rpm so if it's 500rpm it would pretty much stop it.


The idle will drop when you stand on the brakes as it pulls vacuum out of the engine.

#45 Yo-Yo

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Posted 08 July 2014 - 10:43 PM

mine idles at around 900-1krpm, drops to around 600 rpm when applying the brakes. I noticed when driving back from the engineer that it would drop to around 500rpm & the engine would shake like it was on the edge of stalling. It's only gotten that like once so far & that was on the road.
I've been idling it in the driveway to test it every night after work & it seems fine for now

#46 Yo-Yo

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Posted 12 July 2014 - 06:45 PM

Got the engineer certificate after having the seatbelts changed to ADR complied belts.

Took it to the blueslip inspection & had to get new tyres put on.
I also need to get the brake booster fixed, but I'm buying a 280zx brake booster & 15/16 master cylinder from a member on here.
I've done some googling & apparently it should be a direct fit as long as the booster is mounted upside down but I could only find a few posts, nothing concrete.
My car is basically the same as an Aus delivered '76 260z. Can anyone confirm this or provide a link to someone who has had this done?

I bought the bigger master cylinder as I am planning on getting 4 piston fronts & convert to rear discs so I may as well replace the current one with that rather than get it fixed

I've attached photos of my brake booster
Posted Image
Posted Image

Once the booster issue is fixed she'll be all road legal :)

#47 grimlynsan

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Posted 13 July 2014 - 04:35 PM

Got the engineer certificate after having the seatbelts changed to ADR complied belts.

Took it to the blueslip inspection & had to get new tyres put on.
I also need to get the brake booster fixed, but I'm buying a 280zx brake booster & 15/16 master cylinder from a member on here.
I've done some googling & apparently it should be a direct fit as long as the booster is mounted upside down but I could only find a few posts, nothing concrete.
My car is basically the same as an Aus delivered '76 260z. Can anyone confirm this or provide a link to someone who has had this done?

I bought the bigger master cylinder as I am planning on getting 4 piston fronts & convert to rear discs so I may as well replace the current one with that rather than get it fixed

I've attached photos of my brake booster
Posted Image
Posted Image

Once the booster issue is fixed she'll be all road legal :)


I have a 77 with a 15/16 master and booster from 280zx fitted upside down. You just have to bend the hard lines slightly (with your hands) for it to fit. I believe both S1 and S2 280z parts will fit, one upside down, one not. I also have the hilux front and r31 rear and it works a treat.

#48 Yo-Yo

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Posted 13 July 2014 - 07:05 PM

thanks mate, good to know.  :)
Lots of info out there but not as easy to filter what would be relevent in my situation. Co-incidentally I found out the dodgy booster might also be the reason for my rough idle when applying the brakes so hopefully it fixes two issues at once haha.

How hard is it to remove the booster? Do I just undo the bolts on the master cylinder & the bolts on the brake pedal brackets? Any other steps or is there a how to posted online?

Thanks again everyone  ;D

#49 Linton

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 08:56 AM

it's not that hard just a bit awkward inside , probably easier to take m/cyl off, but if you don't want mess leave the pipes connected and move m/cyl forward off booster. then jump inside remove the pin that connects the rod to the pedal, there are four nuts holding the booster to the firewall after you get them all off, back out to the front and remove the booster

#50 Yo-Yo

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Posted 14 July 2014 - 08:14 PM

cheers mate, thought as much. I might just replace the booster myself for now as it seems pretty straight forward.
I won't know for sure until I get the other booster in the mail but from the pics they actually look identical. Will be interesting once it arrives so I can compare..

#51 Yo-Yo

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Posted 15 July 2014 - 10:25 PM

I took out the booster, "a little bit awkward" is a bit of an understatement lol  :P
felt like a contortionist cramming myself into the footwell, naturally of course the most awkward bolt to get to was also rounded  >:(
by some stroke of luck I was able to loosen it & take it off but not without swearing like a drunken sailor in the process hahaha

Should get the new booster in the mail so fingers crossed no issues with that.

#52 PeterAllen

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 05:36 AM

Just curious, but can anyone suggest why this apparent JDM car has English written labels on the booster?


#53 Yo-Yo

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 06:28 AM

It's nothing out of the ordinary, even for today. The part maker for the booster is bendix so nissan/datsun would have a had a supply contract with them at the time, probably a lot more cost effective than producing in house etc.

I've owned imports since I was a teenager & the Japanese always mix English in their cars eg. the dials & buttons for aircon & radio have always been in English. More modern cars like my V36 with factory touchscreen display was mixed with English & Japanese.

As for the reason why... I have no idea  :P

#54 gav240z

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 10:19 AM

My Japanese Market FD RX-7 has English labels/stickers etc.. in many places. Some of them are in Japanese though. So like said above - bit of a mixed bag.

#55 HS30-H

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 04:28 PM

The part maker for the booster is bendix so nissan/datsun would have a had a supply contract with them at the time, probably a lot more cost effective than producing in house etc.


Everything relevant is on the red label.

The booster was actually manufactured in Japan by Jidosha Kiki (they made several parts for these cars) but the design was licensed from Bendix (USA) who held the patent. It's quite a common arrangement, and you'll see a lot more of it on an S30-series Z if you look into it closely enough.

There were some special labels and stickers for the Japanese maarket models, but for everyday items that were shared across several market variants (and also several other models other than the S30...) labels, stickers, logos and other data were written in English. 



#56 d3c0y

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 06:23 PM

I know what Jidosha means but is Kiki someone's name or does it have a translation?

#57 HS30-H

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 06:37 PM

'Kiki' just means pump. It's pronounced like "kick-ee" rather than "kee-kee".

Take a peep at the history of the Bosch Group in Japan for an inkling of just how complicated the founding/merging/takeover/renaming side of things can get in Japanese industry:  http://www.bosch.co....ory/chronology/

Jidosha Kiki's history is interwoven with that of the Bosch Group in Japan, and that of its sister company Diesel Kiki ( now ZEXEL ).

#58 Yo-Yo

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 09:46 PM

Awesome info mate. Cheers!  :)

#59 d3c0y

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Posted 16 July 2014 - 10:06 PM

Haha they are called car pump and diesel pump, i guess that's kind of apt really isn't it?

#60 Yo-Yo

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Posted 17 July 2014 - 08:56 PM

Got the replacement booster, definitely a difference but luckily it all cleared in the engine bay & it mounted right-side up :)
Posted Image
Probably the hardest bit was putting back the bolts on the firewall, very awkward but all in all only took half an hour at most.

The brakes are good now & no more rough Idle which is awesome. The booster is a bit too powerful for the stock brakes as they come on very strong at the end of the pedal travel, hopefully it's not an issue for the blue-slip inspection. At least the booster is working & it will pass the brake test no problem

That's the last thing needed to be addressed, hopefully it'll be rego'd by this saturday :)
If so I'm Cruising all weekend hahaha




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