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Proud new owner :) Imported 1976 Fairlady


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#21 Linton

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 07:35 PM

did you use a test light on both sides of the fusible links??

#22 Yo-Yo

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 08:46 PM

I don't have a test light unfortunately. I only checked under the steering column so far. I'll get to the fusible links next. If still giving me grief I'll buy a multimeter for more troubleshooting.

just popped out to the garage to take a photo of my fusible links next to the strut tower
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are these the ones I should be testing?

#23 Linton

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Posted 29 June 2014 - 09:53 PM

yep should see power on both sides on the terminal post might need ign on they can look alright but no good inside one of them is the headlights


#24 andyk_79

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 08:28 AM

I am glad you raised your issues Yo-Yo.  My headlights and park lights aren't working either (but the dash does light up when you turn the switch on) so this thread has actually been technically helpful as well as enjoyable reading about your acquisition.

Enjoy what looks to be a great purchase.

#25 d3c0y

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 09:37 AM

FWIW, dash lights are on the same circuit as the tail lights; not the headlights.

#26 Yo-Yo

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 07:12 PM

Andy, sorry to hear you have been having electrical issues, but It gives me consolation I'm not the only one going through it at the moment hehehe
I had a bit of a play around with the fusible links after work... took a better visual photo
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Black cable: okay being black cable I'm assuming it's just the earth/negative? When I pulled out the connector all the electrics turned off. I can still start the car but I'm assuming that's because there is still a bit of juice in the alternator?

Brown cable next to the Black cable: If i yank this connector I lose the radio, the antenna no longer goes up or down & I can't crank the engine

Brown cable next to the Green cable: I don't seem to lose anything when I pull the connector, could this be the headlights?

Green cable: The engine cranks but won't start, the handbrake light goes off

I tried swapping the connectors between the links, all the cables are working fine so I don't think it's the cables themselves.
I found a pretty detailed wiring diagram in a 260z fsm but it's spread over 6 pages & really difficult to follow.
So I'm still stuck at square one I have no idea if it's the fusible links, the switch or the headlight plugs (ruling the last one out as both side hi & low beam don't work).

I'll invest in a multimeter next but I might have to get an auto sparky involved as I'm well & truly stumped :(

photo evidence that the headlights were working when I first got the car hahah
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I was hoping to get this baby rego'd by the weekend but looks like it will need to be delayed a bit, I work monday to friday... really should chuck a sickie from work to get this sorted :P

#27 Zedman240®

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 08:05 PM

When I had my 260, the healights would cut out intermittently, found out the fusible links were fine, just the spade terminals had corroded. Squeeze them flat a bit with a pair of pliers and then re connect. To check, switch your headlights on, then play with the links. If still no go, check for faulty fuses as some look okay, but are broken behind the metal end caps. It's always easier to check the easy to get parts before you have to remove steering wheel covers etc.
Headlight switches are pretty comon so that can be the last check.

#28 Yo-Yo

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Posted 30 June 2014 - 08:27 PM

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found a much more simple diagram in another part of the fsm.

so far I replaced all the fuses with new ones. Still no joy
as per my previous post I played around with the fusible links, interchanged the cables to see if it was a dud cable but they all worked when swapping them in, all electrics are fine except the hi & low beams won't come on at all. I'll try cleaning up the spade terminals.

My next step is to get myself a multimeter to check if voltage is getting to where it needs to go. Do I test for resistance with the DMM or is there a particular setting I need to have it on?

Anything else I should try & troubleshoot before calling in an expert?

Cheers for all the feedback & help so far, it's much appreciated!

#29 Yo-Yo

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 08:54 PM

Guess who's got their headlights back  ;D
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It's the damndest thing... I was sitting in the car scratching my head about what to check next, just out of sheer co-incidence I played around with the indicator stalk. I bumped it backwards & the headlights came back on, when I pull it back towards me the lights cut out so something is still wrong but I'm just glad I have my headlights back!

Fingers crossed no issues come up with blueslip but I'm confident it should be ok. Hopefully I will have it rego'd this weekend or next weekend at the latest!

#30 gav240z

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 09:02 PM

Probably some dodgy connection in the stalk itself, perhaps pull it apart and apply contact cleaner.

#31 chris240

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 09:17 PM

Hit it with a hammer. If it doesnt work, get a bigger hammer.

#32 phillay

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Posted 01 July 2014 - 09:44 PM

get some deoxit contact cleaner from jaycar and clean all the contacts and stuff in the switch.

#33 d3c0y

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 08:16 AM

Check for dry or cracked solder joints. I had the same problem with my indicators.

#34 Yo-Yo

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Posted 02 July 2014 - 08:52 PM

Cheers guys will do.  :)
Might have to dig out my old soldering iron, I know it's somewhere in the mess that is my shed ;)

#35 d3c0y

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Posted 03 July 2014 - 08:10 AM

Bunnings do a cracking dual wattage one for like $30, red with a switch on the side highly recommend it.

#36 Yo-Yo

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:27 PM

Bit of an update:
Took the car to the engineer today for certification to state that the car meets the ADR's of 1976. As the car is imported from overseas this is required before I can go for a blueslip inspection which will allow me to rego the car in NSW.

There are emissions requirement for 1976 period but as my car has factory efi running gear for emissions & basically bone stock the engineer wasn't concerned. If the car was modified then it might have made the inspection more complicated.
All the car needs now for certification is ADR compliant seatbelts & a tyre placard in English.

Driving it back home the engine was mis-firing periodically in the lower rev range & the idle was a bit rough but it seemed to go away as I got closer to home. I'll double check the gaps on the spark plugs I put in, for a stock L series motor should the gaps be 0.8? I bought NGK BP6ES.
I might give the distributor cap a clean up. Anything else I should check?

Also the window washer hose was hard as rock & the plastic t-piece was broken so I popped down to bunnings for new 5mm hosing. Had to find a new t-piece at Repco as bunnings didn't have anything suitable.
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If all goes to plan she should be road registered by next weekend :)

#37 gav240z

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:32 PM

Do you know if your car had electronic ignition? Take a photo of the distributor if you can with cap removed.

If they develop slack in the shaft they arc out causing a slight miss.

#38 Yo-Yo

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Posted 05 July 2014 - 11:56 PM

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Just popped out to the garage to take some pics, I'll have a better look tomorrow during the day when it's not freezing hehe

all the leads are fine, nothing fouled or broken at the connection

#39 gav240z

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 12:17 PM

Interesting that has the Mitsubishi stamp on it. I've got 1 of those distributors also but they are different to the common E12 module found on 280zx's etc..

And to be honest I've not seen those style very often at all. So parts for it might be harder to find.

The only real way to know if the distributor is wonky is to pull it off and see if there is play, but you'll want a spare gasket before you do that.

I can try dig mine out of the garage and shoot a short video of it to compare?

But are you sure it is an electrical misfire? Could it be injectors or air flow meter?

FWIW I don't think that distrubtor is driven by a crank angle sensor but I don't know the JDM models like yours that well to be 100% certain?

#40 Yo-Yo

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Posted 06 July 2014 - 05:36 PM

I had a bit of a play with it but didn't want to go too far as I imagine trying to source a replacement is a pita.
I was surprised to see a mitsubishi logo inside too, although I used to own a 2007 V36 skyline & that had airflow meters stamped nissan-Renault hahah.

I'll open up the air flow meter next as it might need a clean, going by the air filter that came with the car there might be a bit of crap hiding in there.

Speaking of the air filter bought a K&N filter to replace the filthy stock paper filter. It wasn't a direct fit in the airbox, I had to trim one of the rubber edges to get it to fit but it still makes a complete seal inside the airbox.
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All I can say is wow, what a difference a clean & high flowing filter makes to these old engines, the engine automatically felt stronger & much better throttle response. I put K&N filters in my old cars & it made a little bit of difference to throttle response but this is night & day.

Had a closer look at my indicator switch, one of the wires is exposed. I could splice in a replacement wire but I might just get a whole new indicator assembly for better insurance down the track. I still technically have hi-beam functionality via the 'pass' button so hopefully it won't be an issue for my blueslip inspection.
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