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What to have plated?


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#1 PeterAllen

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 02:09 PM

Finally getting on with some assembly. I've looked around and there doesn't appear to be too much which actually need electroplating. I'm only looking at items which were originally cad plated and I'm not running any Datsun engine/drivetrain/brakes.

Any suggestions on what I might be missing to send to the plater?

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#2 d3c0y

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 03:05 PM

A truck load of stuff from the engine bay, Pretty much everything was cad plated in there.

#3 PeterAllen

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 03:15 PM

Apologies, I meant to state no Datsun engine/gearbox either. Post #1 amended.

#4 gav240z

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 03:49 PM

The headlight backing plates?
The bonnet catch plate (are you running the OEM set up?)
The bonnet hinges were cad plated also.
Engine bay inspection light.
Horns
The Master and Clutch Cylinder Caps - better off just buying NOS for that though..
Voltage regulator? Probably not running that.


I can't recall if the dove-tails and rear hatch components were also cad plated.

Likewise I feel like the doors had several cad plated parts like window winders etc.. but you're GTO is using different doors right?

So given your GTO conversion I'm not sure what parts you're still using.

Who are you going to get the plating done through? I was looking at the DIY kits but not sure if it's worth giving them a go?



#5 gilltech

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Posted 30 May 2014 - 08:51 PM

I've done this a couple of times with Mustangs.
I use a 2L ice cream container, fill it with the various little parts, & the electroplating firm will put them into a tumbler for plating. Just make sure you know which part belongs where first, take photos & label same to be sure.
You should be able to choose from a range of finishes. Personally I don't like the original-style yellowy-rainbow colour of Datsun parts, looks thin & cheap to me, I prefer the colour 'blue-zinc'. But I've also had nickel done, looks more silver like chrome. So check out samples of their work first. Depending on the chosen metal & the condition of your parts so the price will vary.
From experience make sure that your parts are pretty darn clean to start with; great gobs of well-stuck underseal & paint & dried grease & somesuch can be quite difficult for the dip process to remove & that will affect the quality & cost of the job.
If your parts are rusty then the process will remove the rust & coat the good metal so don't be disappointed if you end up with pitting where the rust once was. If in doubt then find parts in better condition to start with. The new coating will be just like fresh paint & highlight any flaws unfortunately.

#6 PeterAllen

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Posted 31 May 2014 - 11:39 AM

Thanks Gavin but I don't have any of those items on my car.

Gilltech - Thanks for the tip on preparing the parts, I had assumed (!) the plater would prepare them so I'll now have to clean them up.

I want to keep the 'bling' to a minimum so I've painted most items and I only want to plate these because they are retained by bolt, nut or clip and the paint would be removed when they were fitted.

#7 Scoota G

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Posted 31 May 2014 - 01:44 PM

Even if you have parts that should be plated yet you won't be fitting them to your Zed get them plated anyway. It won't add much to the cost and you can sell them as individual parts.

#8 thriller

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Posted 31 May 2014 - 02:23 PM

Gilltech - Thanks for the tip on preparing the parts, I had assumed (!) the plater would prepare them so I'll now have to clean them up.


I didn't so much as think about cleaning any of the parts I had done & it turned out great. Did a whole cars worth in about two buckets (headlight cones and all)

#9 PeterAllen

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 10:34 AM

Does anyone know if rubber/plastic components can be retained on items while they are plated - Zinc plating with yellow passivating?

I know the striker plates for the door latches have rubber pads riveted to them and I believe the headlight cones also have plastic clips which are apparently fixed to the cone

I'm going to ask the plater but I wondered if anyone had experience with this?


Edit - Oops, I've just discovered that the rubber buffer in the striker plate can be removed.

#10 gilltech

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Posted 02 June 2014 - 10:43 PM

The stripping solution will soften or dissolve non-metal parts. And even if some remnants remain they will shield the metal behind from getting a proper even coating. So no, you have to separate all the components. And the dirtier the parts are initially the longer they will need to be immersed, the more the man's solution gets contaminated, & so the man will want to charge you more. So clean up the parts yourself & inspect them closely for pitting etc, a fresh plating will highlight any defects & not conveniently fill them in.

#11 PeterAllen

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 02:34 PM

Got some of the items back today, including some belonging to George.

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#12 peter t

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 06:15 PM

I didn't worry about doing my bits from under the car. They are only going to get dirty again so painted them. I bought a DIY plating kit but as yet haven't used it. But good to see your build progressing.
Peter. ;)

#13 PB260Z

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Posted 18 June 2014 - 06:19 PM

I bought a DIY plating kit but as yet haven't used it. But good to see your build progressing.
Peter. ;)


I will be interested to see the results from your DIY kit.
Where did you get it from ? Cost ?

#14 gav240z

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 11:42 AM

I bought a DIY plating kit but as yet haven't used it.


Please keep us informed, I have been looking at Yellow Cad Kits also, but wondering if I'll just outsource.

As per discussion here: http://www.viczcar.c....html#msg155310

@Peter - you mentioned the discoloration is more obvious in photos (I totally get that, given my steering wheel and center console resto thread and various other things I've done on the car the flash / photo makes certain things look different).

I'm wondering though did you discuss this with the plater? Is this something that can be adjusted controlled in the process? I'd like to go with a yellow as can be look if that's possible?

#15 PeterAllen

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 03:26 PM

...
I'm wondering though did you discuss this with the plater? No, I wasn't aware it would be an issue
Is this something that can be adjusted controlled in the process? I don't know  ...


Cozza had some done at Alexandria recently so he might like to chime in with his experience.

I only had the plating done because I thought paint would come off a painted surface when they were re-attached to the car. If I did it again I would go for the aluminium/silver passivating rather than the yellow/gold as I'm after function not appearance - unlike yourself and George I'm not doing a restoration.

#16 Cozza

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 08:20 PM

Hey Fellas
Yeah I was after the original look so went with the yellow passivating finish.
I have painted lots of these type of parts in the past but the paint gets damaged once you tighten a bolt or slide a clip onto them.
It does have a bit of the rainbow effect but nothing I'm concerned by.
I blasted all my parts except the fuel rail (wouldn't fit in the cabinet) You can see the pitting as mentioned above.
I had no problem with the plastic and rubber parts, they are as good as before they went in.
Generally I'm happy with the outcome and the service I got from Alexandria Plating.
Got a beer carton full of stuff done plus a ice cream container full of nuts bolts and clips for $80. I don't know about others but I was surprised it was so cheap.

Mick

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#17 gav240z

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 08:47 PM

Sounds and looks good Mick - I like the finish you got.

So is it this place you went to?
http://www.yellowpag...62-listing.html

#18 George

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 08:51 PM


I blasted all my parts except the fuel rail (wouldn't fit in the cabinet) You can see the pitting as mentioned above.


Mick, did you polish any of them or are they all just blasted and then plated? Do the same guys do the blasting?

#19 Cozza

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Posted 23 July 2014 - 10:31 PM

Yeah Gav, that's them.
George, I did the blasting at home in my Supercheap cabinet.
No polishing just straight out of the blaster and off to the plater.

Mick

#20 PB260Z

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Posted 24 July 2014 - 08:15 AM

George, I did the blasting at home in my Supercheap cabinet.


Hi Mick

I have been thinking about geting a media blasting cabinet, have you been happy with yours ?

Cheers

PB




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