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FuFu'Z 240Z Project! 56K warning... too slow.


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#1 fufu

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 08:10 AM

* Just a note i have edited this journal as the previous version had lots of images that didn't fit.

Got my 240Z delivered on Melbourne Cup Tuesday, poor guy who delivered it was from Sydney and didn't get the day off he just said "You people down here just don't do anything today".

;D

Anyways as soon as it got off the trailer... it wouldn't budge... battery was flat. After an hour of pushing the car into a reasonable position so that another car could jump start it... all i can say is... "IT'S ALIVE" and smells like a lawnmower.

Got it into the garage and start stripping.

Straight off into the hard work.
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A picture of the car in my garage... that's me in the boot working on some interior rear panels.

The overall car isn't in too bad of a shape. Not much rust at all but I've yet to sand it down and see the full extent. But all i can say is there are a few bubbles here and there and that the only severe rust would be the passenger side floor.
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Some rust on both sides of the radiator support bar.
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Look at that nice fender mirror. Doesn't it look sexy. I'm not accepting offers for it, its staying in. Actually Zedevan do you want to trade? i want the chrome, however these need to be repainted though.
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A picture of the cowl zones, not too badly rusted as I've seen with other vehicles.
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A picture of the rear with all the lights out... nice... minimal rust... sweet...
Oh you can't really see it but... the passenger side rear next to the muffler had a bit of an accident and its all dented and also the rear metal bumper is pretty much rusted and has holes everywhere... So I'll be needing a new rear metallic bumper and that small bumper area if anyone has a spare lying around.
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Picture of the interior... both seats have tears in them but the passenger seems to be in better nick... however i'm going to get myself a pair of recaros or them fake recaros.
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A bit of the dash. About 3 cracks and 1 massive chunk gone above the right dial there. Gonna need a dash repair or a new dash depends whats available. Anyone got a spare good condition dash?
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The amount of coins I'm finding in every crack will soon pay for this car... It's quite a bit... even found a 1966 20 cent piece. Twice my age... Damn...

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Look how corroded everything is.
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Ok the previous owner chopped some coolant bypass line and clogged both ends... well it keeps leaking and ultimately empties the radiator the moment i turn the car on... Does anyone know what this hose is called?
Gonna need to replace it.
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Brake booster is corroded, the brake cylinder was empty and what was left in the system is pretty much sludge. The transmission oil is packed to the brim to the point where the lid doesn't even sit on properly.

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Fuel lines leading to the engine are badly corroded, to the point where driving it is scary because it might start squirting fuel into the engine bay and cause a fire. Scary rust.
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Anyways thats it for the First Stripping Stage. Stay tuned for additions.

Whats to come daily brief:
- remove the rest of interior pieces
- remove engine
- remove panels
- start sanding

Tease: New seats, manual conversion, Watanabe's, Flares/Over Fenders, Rear and Front Spoilers.






#2 Charlie Boy

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 09:28 AM

Wow those are some big pictures ;D Are you stripping it back and having it media blasted? Anyway before you get to carried away my advice to you is to label everything and take pictures of how things go together. But looks like you have the pictures sorted so far.

Good luck man!

C

#3 maddos

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 11:42 AM

Was that one on ebay?
Looks like a good project.

#4 fufu

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 11:53 AM

Hi guys,

I'm not planning on media blasting it because the body itself seems to be in too good of a condition, so i plan on skipping the media blasting stage and going straight to a bare metal, full POR-15 x 2 coats then a primer x 2 coats. The work will be done at Kym's panels where Warrenz Z is also being done. Found out Mr. Tan (A.k.a Kym) is an old friend of my dads and owes his skills, that he uses today to fix cars... to my grandpa.

Wow talk about small world.

Yea this is the one that was on eBay. Clearly the eBay page was exaggerated. I've got a bump on the bonnet, bump on the front metal bar. Holes in the rear metal bare, a crash on the rear passenger side which led to that metal bar being warped and rusted. Engines in unuseable condition even though it starts. It's just too dangerous until i get the new fuel lines in and replace that stupid hose that he cut.

But... the shell is a hell of a find in this condition.

I just got the doors and rear quarter windows apart now i'm going to start doing the console and interior.



#5 Charlie Boy

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 01:10 PM

I would recommend Rust Bullet, if you want some Por 15 I've got some at my factory you could have it for a few dollars.

C

#6 chris240

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 03:15 PM

I like your idea of minimal rust !! one heck of a challenge youve got fixing the rust. Hope all goes well, & dont cut corners in preping the body !!
Chris.

#7 maddos

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 03:24 PM

That rust's nothing compared to my 260 2 seater I'm trying to fix.

#8 fufu

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 04:07 PM

OK just finished Day 2 of Stripping and didn't get very far.

I got the metal bumper bars off, and the engineers of those bumper bars should be shot... it took me a good 2 hrs to get it free.

Also managed to get 1 seat free... once again took a good hr to undo it.

mmm still having trouble with the front light cones and the bottom indicator panel and ultimately the side fenders. They were on my to get finished list today but... damn... the bolts are all rusted and they snapped... and now i have to hole punch and drill them and even re-thread them depending on the condition.

God damn these rusted bolts. I so wanted to finish the stripping today.

What I'm currently doing is... whatever panel i pull off, i either refix the screws otherwise i get masking tape and tape all of it together how i pulled it off. This will hopefully help me later in the re-fitting stage.

I'm also taking lots of photos to further give me the knowledge when it comes back to re-fitting.

#9 Charlie Boy

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 05:28 PM

If you want some Rust Bullet I need to order a can and looking at  www.rustbullet.com.au  its the same delivery cost for three cans as it is for one ???

C

#10 fufu

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 06:32 PM

Hey Charlie,

Do you know if you need to rough up the surface for the rust bullet in order to get the etch primer on? like you do with POR-15?

I've read the "applications instructions" but it says if it's within 72 hrs. and after 24 hrs of the last coat it's fine for a etch primer layer?

Just asking as i don't want the bubbles which they constantly keep talking about.



#11 NZeder

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 07:02 PM

Are there any panel beater on the site? Do you recommend POR15?

Reason I ask is by brother is a panel beater and restores cars for a living (hence my car has taken 10 years so far - family wait) he also does media blasting, he has restored Jags, Ferraris, Lambos, MG's, American mussel cars, hot rods, worked on racecars etc anyway he would not and never use POR15 and the panel shop next to his is of the same school would not touch it.

So my question is why and do other panelbeaters recommend not to use it too?

#12 matt drago

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 07:49 PM

Of course a panel beater recommends not to use POR15, putting himself out of work if he recommends it ;) ;)

#13 NZeder

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 08:40 PM

Not the reason - the correct answer is have you every tried to remove it after an accident? It does come off but you are talking massive amounts of labour = write your car off and get another one the labour will kill you to remove the stuff and with older cars like ours try and find new panels = old ones have to be repaired = POR-15 removal = get a new car just walk away and I don't want to do that with either of my zeds.

#14 FuzzyDropbear

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Posted 08 November 2007 - 10:45 PM

Wow, you for real mate?  :o Oh well, if that's the case I won't be using the stuff on my car.

EDIT: Oh, good luck with the project mate. Looks like you have a decent car to start with.

#15 sco_aus

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 01:04 AM

Looks to be a bit of work ahead, goodluck.
Can someone explain to me what the hell media blasting is?  Ive never heard of it.

#16 gav240z

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 02:34 AM

I think it's the same thing as sandblasting.
See here: http://www.lowriderm...ting/index.html


#17 tattoo_ink

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 04:11 AM

yep sandblasting is illegal nowdays due to radiation or some s%$t .....so the go is to use a different media like garnet, illminite, copper slag (the missus recons it sounds like a movie about a dirty police wife!!!!!) etc
                              sorry had to say that !


#18 atticus

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 09:06 AM

As far as I know, sand isn't radioactive.  :P  It can lead to this though:

Silicosis (also known as Grinder's disease and Potter's rot) is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring in forms of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs.

Silicosis (especially the acute form) is characterized by shortness of breath, fever, and cyanosis (bluish skin). It may often be misdiagnosed as pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs), pneumonia, or tuberculosis.

When small silica dust particles are inhaled, they can embed themselves deeply into the tiny alveolar sacs and ducts in the lungs, where oxygen and carbon dioxide gases are exchanged. There, the lungs cannot clear out the dust by mucous or coughing.

Silicosis is an occupational hazard to mining, sandblasting, quarry, ceramics and foundry workers, as well as grinders, stonecutters and those continually exposed to silica dust.

Silicosis is an irreversible condition with no cure.


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Silicosis

#19 Charlie Boy

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 09:28 AM

fufu, before my car was media blasted we removed the dog legs and chassis rails so that the blaster could better reach some of those ares. Any small amount a surface rust that was not removed with the blasting was masked up, then the rest of the car was etched primed. These masked areas were generally the areas the blasting did not fully reach, so inside places like the rocker panels, scuttle and deep in side the chassis rails etc. This is where Rust Bullet comes in to its own as some of these places are extremely difficult to reach and Por15 requires to much surface preparation to be used. We hand painted some areas and sprayed some others,  you can actually use one of those pressurised garden weed killer bottles with the long wands to reach inside some of the hard to reach areas. My car is close to having its final paint so I want to get one can of Rust Bullet and almost pour it into some areas, we will then rotate the car on the rotisserie allowing the Rust Bullet to penetrate the seams around the rear hatch wheels arches etc this way no rust will form from the inside. You can top coat rust bullet like they said but not for 24 hours as the chemical reaction with the rust produces gas. If you top coat it after 72 hours I would scotch brite it first, although etch primer has acid in it and would most likely etch into the rust bullet anyway. Personally I would use regular paint as much as possible so long as its put on clean rust free metal you should have no problems, its also good to use epoxy primer/sealer at some stage or in the case of etch primer something called thermo coat, this will seal the metal from oxygen as etch primer, surface primer, base coat and even top coat are somewhat porous and will allow oxygen to get to the metal all be it very slowly.

I personaly have noting to do with Rust Bullet, just from my experience its the best product for what I want it to do! Others will swear by Por15 and some by Zero Rust its up to the person doing the job at the end of the day.

C

Ps If you top coat Por15 you have to use their Tie coat first, so the process is to Marine clean, then Metal ready then Por15 then Tie coat then Top coat. Or de grease metal Rust Bullet then Top coat ;D


#20 fufu

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Posted 09 November 2007 - 09:44 AM

Oh i really like the sound of rust bullet now.

So assuming that the rust bullet covers the area... theres no need for epoxy primer? Just a straight paint over it? or should i do a epoxy just in case? i just want to know the details and spend the money now rather than later.

Oh and another question when you put it into a those weed sprayer thingy's do you dilute it with anything? Just asking as POR-15 actually can be diluted and sprayed... just setting myself up for the challenge.

Anyways i love what this thread has become, we've got quite a lot of info running about.

1) Pro's and Con's of POR-15
2) Sand Blasting - the truth behind it
3) Rust Bullet, super easy!

keep it up guys, good info that can be stickied to associated places later.





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