FuFu'Z 240Z Project! 56K warning... too slow.
Posted 08 November 2007 - 08:10 AM
Got my 240Z delivered on Melbourne Cup Tuesday, poor guy who delivered it was from Sydney and didn't get the day off he just said "You people down here just don't do anything today".
Anyways as soon as it got off the trailer... it wouldn't budge... battery was flat. After an hour of pushing the car into a reasonable position so that another car could jump start it... all i can say is... "IT'S ALIVE" and smells like a lawnmower.
Got it into the garage and start stripping.
Straight off into the hard work.
A picture of the car in my garage... that's me in the boot working on some interior rear panels.
The overall car isn't in too bad of a shape. Not much rust at all but I've yet to sand it down and see the full extent. But all i can say is there are a few bubbles here and there and that the only severe rust would be the passenger side floor.
Some rust on both sides of the radiator support bar.
Look at that nice fender mirror. Doesn't it look sexy. I'm not accepting offers for it, its staying in. Actually Zedevan do you want to trade? i want the chrome, however these need to be repainted though.
A picture of the cowl zones, not too badly rusted as I've seen with other vehicles.
A picture of the rear with all the lights out... nice... minimal rust... sweet...
Oh you can't really see it but... the passenger side rear next to the muffler had a bit of an accident and its all dented and also the rear metal bumper is pretty much rusted and has holes everywhere... So I'll be needing a new rear metallic bumper and that small bumper area if anyone has a spare lying around.
Picture of the interior... both seats have tears in them but the passenger seems to be in better nick... however i'm going to get myself a pair of recaros or them fake recaros.
A bit of the dash. About 3 cracks and 1 massive chunk gone above the right dial there. Gonna need a dash repair or a new dash depends whats available. Anyone got a spare good condition dash?
The amount of coins I'm finding in every crack will soon pay for this car... It's quite a bit... even found a 1966 20 cent piece. Twice my age... Damn...
Look how corroded everything is.
Ok the previous owner chopped some coolant bypass line and clogged both ends... well it keeps leaking and ultimately empties the radiator the moment i turn the car on... Does anyone know what this hose is called?
Gonna need to replace it.
Brake booster is corroded, the brake cylinder was empty and what was left in the system is pretty much sludge. The transmission oil is packed to the brim to the point where the lid doesn't even sit on properly.
Fuel lines leading to the engine are badly corroded, to the point where driving it is scary because it might start squirting fuel into the engine bay and cause a fire. Scary rust.
Anyways thats it for the First Stripping Stage. Stay tuned for additions.
Whats to come daily brief:
- remove the rest of interior pieces
- remove engine
- remove panels
- start sanding
Tease: New seats, manual conversion, Watanabe's, Flares/Over Fenders, Rear and Front Spoilers.
Posted 08 November 2007 - 09:28 AM
Good luck man!
Posted 08 November 2007 - 11:53 AM
I'm not planning on media blasting it because the body itself seems to be in too good of a condition, so i plan on skipping the media blasting stage and going straight to a bare metal, full POR-15 x 2 coats then a primer x 2 coats. The work will be done at Kym's panels where Warrenz Z is also being done. Found out Mr. Tan (A.k.a Kym) is an old friend of my dads and owes his skills, that he uses today to fix cars... to my grandpa.
Wow talk about small world.
Yea this is the one that was on eBay. Clearly the eBay page was exaggerated. I've got a bump on the bonnet, bump on the front metal bar. Holes in the rear metal bare, a crash on the rear passenger side which led to that metal bar being warped and rusted. Engines in unuseable condition even though it starts. It's just too dangerous until i get the new fuel lines in and replace that stupid hose that he cut.
But... the shell is a hell of a find in this condition.
I just got the doors and rear quarter windows apart now i'm going to start doing the console and interior.
Posted 08 November 2007 - 01:10 PM
Posted 08 November 2007 - 03:15 PM
Posted 08 November 2007 - 03:24 PM
Posted 08 November 2007 - 04:07 PM
I got the metal bumper bars off, and the engineers of those bumper bars should be shot... it took me a good 2 hrs to get it free.
Also managed to get 1 seat free... once again took a good hr to undo it.
mmm still having trouble with the front light cones and the bottom indicator panel and ultimately the side fenders. They were on my to get finished list today but... damn... the bolts are all rusted and they snapped... and now i have to hole punch and drill them and even re-thread them depending on the condition.
God damn these rusted bolts. I so wanted to finish the stripping today.
What I'm currently doing is... whatever panel i pull off, i either refix the screws otherwise i get masking tape and tape all of it together how i pulled it off. This will hopefully help me later in the re-fitting stage.
I'm also taking lots of photos to further give me the knowledge when it comes back to re-fitting.
Posted 08 November 2007 - 05:28 PM
Posted 08 November 2007 - 06:32 PM
Do you know if you need to rough up the surface for the rust bullet in order to get the etch primer on? like you do with POR-15?
I've read the "applications instructions" but it says if it's within 72 hrs. and after 24 hrs of the last coat it's fine for a etch primer layer?
Just asking as i don't want the bubbles which they constantly keep talking about.
Posted 08 November 2007 - 07:02 PM
Reason I ask is by brother is a panel beater and restores cars for a living (hence my car has taken 10 years so far - family wait) he also does media blasting, he has restored Jags, Ferraris, Lambos, MG's, American mussel cars, hot rods, worked on racecars etc anyway he would not and never use POR15 and the panel shop next to his is of the same school would not touch it.
So my question is why and do other panelbeaters recommend not to use it too?
Posted 08 November 2007 - 07:49 PM
Posted 08 November 2007 - 08:40 PM
Posted 08 November 2007 - 10:45 PM
EDIT: Oh, good luck with the project mate. Looks like you have a decent car to start with.
Posted 09 November 2007 - 01:04 AM
Can someone explain to me what the hell media blasting is? Ive never heard of it.
Posted 09 November 2007 - 04:11 AM
sorry had to say that !
Posted 09 November 2007 - 09:06 AM
Silicosis (also known as Grinder's disease and Potter's rot) is a form of occupational lung disease caused by inhalation of crystalline silica dust, and is marked by inflammation and scarring in forms of nodular lesions in the upper lobes of the lungs.
Silicosis (especially the acute form) is characterized by shortness of breath, fever, and cyanosis (bluish skin). It may often be misdiagnosed as pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs), pneumonia, or tuberculosis.
When small silica dust particles are inhaled, they can embed themselves deeply into the tiny alveolar sacs and ducts in the lungs, where oxygen and carbon dioxide gases are exchanged. There, the lungs cannot clear out the dust by mucous or coughing.
Silicosis is an occupational hazard to mining, sandblasting, quarry, ceramics and foundry workers, as well as grinders, stonecutters and those continually exposed to silica dust.
Silicosis is an irreversible condition with no cure.
Posted 09 November 2007 - 09:28 AM
I personaly have noting to do with Rust Bullet, just from my experience its the best product for what I want it to do! Others will swear by Por15 and some by Zero Rust its up to the person doing the job at the end of the day.
Ps If you top coat Por15 you have to use their Tie coat first, so the process is to Marine clean, then Metal ready then Por15 then Tie coat then Top coat. Or de grease metal Rust Bullet then Top coat
Posted 09 November 2007 - 09:44 AM
So assuming that the rust bullet covers the area... theres no need for epoxy primer? Just a straight paint over it? or should i do a epoxy just in case? i just want to know the details and spend the money now rather than later.
Oh and another question when you put it into a those weed sprayer thingy's do you dilute it with anything? Just asking as POR-15 actually can be diluted and sprayed... just setting myself up for the challenge.
Anyways i love what this thread has become, we've got quite a lot of info running about.
1) Pro's and Con's of POR-15
2) Sand Blasting - the truth behind it
3) Rust Bullet, super easy!
keep it up guys, good info that can be stickied to associated places later.
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