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Richard's 620ZX Coupe


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#41 tir33d

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Posted 20 June 2014 - 11:15 PM

You need to get yourself a starter motor and bolt that in. Suddenly you will realise your clearance issues with header pipes.
Does this car already have a full roll cage?
You have crossed over now, no longer improved production. Might as well start stripping headlights and all.
How are you going to feed air to throttle body?
Under driven harmonic balancer?

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#42 260DET

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 10:40 AM

Z is road registered Phill so it can be used for sprints and certain other Q classes but sprints do me, the only restriction is under CAMS at Bathurst where only regularity is allowed. Which does not stop a pedal to the metal run down Conrod Straight of course :) Car has a haft cage plus some discreet body bracing eg to the firewall.

While I think of it, what 5th, 6th gearbox ratio and diff ratio do you use?

Air intake will be similar to what worked with the turbo engine, a big K&N filter boxed into the front L corner of the engine bay behind the L headlight which has extra holes around it. Yes, fitting collectors on the R is going to be a problem which the pro will sort out, have already made a heat shield for the starter which is the solenoid on top type.

An underdrive balancer, cams etc are scheduled to be done later. I'm being crowded for time and the Z has to be driveable ASAP.

#43 PeterAllen

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 12:12 PM

... the starter which is the solenoid on top type...


"Please explain" - I was aware the LS2 onwards starters were shorter in length than the LS1 but I haven't heard of a solenoid configuration other than 'on top'. I can hardly fit a Tally-Ho between my solenoid and the headers.

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#44 tir33d

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 05:09 PM

1st: 2.66:1
2nd: 1.78:1
3rd: 1.30:1
4th: 1.00:1
5th: 0.74:1
6th: 0.50:1

3.7 in diff. Memory here - 6200 6th gear at eastern creek. Only use 3 & 4 at Wakefield.
Mine are individual pipes on DS headers, real PITA.


#45 tir33d

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 05:18 PM

You will save yourself $1500 if you do your cam now. I am guessing you are going to have to get that computer tuned, guess $1000, labour on a motor on a stand will be $500 less. ANd you really want to rev a chev to 7000rpm, only springs can make this safer. Do it later and $1000 to retune the computer.
The underdrive is just a nice thing for your motor. Normal motors live at 2000rpm not 5000rpm, spin your power steer to quick, water pump, alternator. Not about the 3hp, more about accessory speed. Just my 2c.
Phil

#46 260DET

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Posted 21 June 2014 - 06:43 PM

Appreciate the advice Phill, a retune will just be part of whatever upgrades/changes are decided on after the car has done some laps, there are sure to be other things too. Am sure I've seen a pic of a LS starter with the solenoid on the side but that's about it, seen so much LS stuff lately.................

As a matter of interest, any idea of what speed yours is capable of down Conrod Straight? Any plans to go with a lighter 4 or 5 speed box?

#47 260DET

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 04:58 PM

Sump has been welded at long last, had to get the face milled because it warped a bit despite being bolted down during welding.  Have made a start to get to the stage where the sump can be put back on, nothing simple here. First of all, after cleaning everything of course, fitted all the bits and pieces to the sump itself, yep this is no ordinary sump. Starting with the sump well cover which had it's gap to the sump opened out a bit to improve oil flow back, see arrow on pic. Then for the present cap the drain down inlet and the vent outlet and fit the oil temp sender. Then comes the Improved Racing adaptor which provides in and out connexions for the thermostatically regulated oil cooler and the Accusump together, as well as a port for the oil pressure gauge sender. Used an old Datsun fitting to locate that sender out of the way, handy things those old Datsuns :) The final job was to fit the sump gasket. What? The metal/plastic gasket actually is fixed to the sump face by two pop rivets, is that too cool for school?

OK, sump done. Clean and fit the aftermarket crank scraper with the standard windage tray to go on top of that. Opened up the louvres in the tray so it could catch flying oil more effectively, see pic. Stopped there, seems like the scraper is hitting the crank or something, enough excitement for one day.

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#48 tir33d

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Posted 24 June 2014 - 09:54 PM

Is that adapter where your oil filter goes?
Big question, does it fit?


#49 d3c0y

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 02:01 PM

So you are running an Accu-sump with a wet sump? I thought that was for dry sumps or you just dont want to run the factory oil pump?

#50 260DET

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Posted 25 June 2014 - 02:15 PM

Yep it all fits Phill, the Improved adaptor bolts in place of the factory blank off. Put all this stuff on the L side to make the R side as clear as possible for exhaust stuff.

Accusump suits a wet sump setup Jake, will try and get pics of it all installed in due course.

#51 d3c0y

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 10:06 AM

Makes sense, just never thought of using it like that.

#52 260DET

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 04:07 PM

OK, you want more sump pictures eh, the story first though. It was the Improved Racing crank scraper which was hitting and after several attempts to fix it gave up and put the sump on without it. Two problems with the scraper, the first being that it does not fit snug over the bolts so it's located precisely, the second is that it sits under the stock windage tray so it's impossible to see where it's hitting.  We're talking small clearances between the scraper and the crank, precise location is a must in that situation, slack Yanks.

Why do engine changes take longer than you think? Here is an example involving the power brake vacuum line from the engine. Firstly, different size hose which requires a reducer, try getting one of those to suit from Repco or Supercheep. Ebay to the rescue, again, together with some nice silicone blank off caps for the engine's heater hose outlets. Not those rubber ones that last six months if you are lucky. Second problem, the vacuum outlet on the inlet manifold points to the L while of course it has to go to the R. So order two 90 degree fittings and a connector, Ebay again. Saves so much time and money trying to chase up stuff on the phone when mostly if it does not come within 'make and model' so a day is wrecked driving around.

Engine and box should be back in within a few days, can't beat progress that you can see. Now for the pics you have been dying to see  :D

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#53 KatoKid

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Posted 26 June 2014 - 04:59 PM

I feel your pain in all aspects and LOL at your scraper issues....beats me that anyone would market a scraper that wasnt a good fit.....pointless otherwise!



#54 260DET

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 10:12 AM

It can be a pain but it's all part of building a car isn't it, part of the challenge that eventually makes the car yours. As someone said, if you didn't build it then it's not yours. I like that.

Was thinking, it's good in some ways to go from turbo to NA. Not having to have a big IC up front simplifies cooling arrangements and should open up aero options up front. I like aero, particularly the inconspicuous stuff that works.

#55 dat2kman

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 11:13 AM

I feel your pain in all aspects and LOL at your scraper issues....beats me that anyone would market a scraper that wasnt a good fit.....pointless otherwise!

The crank scrapers do come with instructions that some minor trimming and adjustment may be needed in order to fit without interference. They are quite effective, with the suppliers espousing the benefits!
Thats pretty obvious to those of us who build our own race engines, or take an existing car, and build it to be better and faster, and get out there and prove it, instead of just buying a crate motor and cobbling up various afterthought fix-ups to make it fit.
So looking forward to seeing the end result of the selection of bits and pieces, bolted together, and the proposed trip to PI, and Bathurst, and the resulting lap times. As are no doubt, quite a few others on here.
Comparison to the usual LS3 fitted Sports Sedans will be most fascinating.

#56 260DET

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 05:06 PM

Hi Jason, that time of the month again? Just to clarify things, the car is being built by me for me, not to please you or anyone else. On lap times, well as we know I've already gone way faster around Lakeside than you and I see that Nev did a mid 58 the other day at the lake, beaten only by some Porker turbo thing. Some get out there and do real times, others just bitch  ;D



#57 OZZ240

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Posted 27 June 2014 - 09:38 PM

Powell Industrial are hose and fitting specialist they are on Robinson Road At Geebung or Postie Street at Coopers Plains sell lots of fittings that could possible help you out, I used them with my engine conversion.

#58 Riceburner

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:21 AM

The crank scrapers do come with instructions that some minor trimming and adjustment may be needed in order to fit without interference. They are quite effective, with the suppliers espousing the benefits!
Thats pretty obvious to those of us who build our own race engines, or take an existing car, and build it to be better and faster, and get out there and prove it, instead of just buying a crate motor and cobbling up various afterthought fix-ups to make it fit.
So looking forward to seeing the end result of the selection of bits and pieces, bolted together, and the proposed trip to PI, and Bathurst, and the resulting lap times. As are no doubt, quite a few others on here.
Comparison to the usual LS3 fitted Sports Sedans will be most fascinating.


My L28 crank scraper came with no instructions, I'm with Rich & Kato, If I pay good money I want something that fits with minimal effort. If not, I won't buy it.

You and Rich need to sit down and watch a Matlock marathon until this tit for tat crap is sorted  ;D There's far too many topics getting polluted with this tripe  :P

Everyone values both your input greatly, I have gotten a huge information from you and your posts. We are all on the the same team aren't we  :)

#59 260DET

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 07:41 AM

Yeh I should have resisted Jason's bait but was wetting myself laughing and after a few Friday arvo beers...........

Anyway, on topic, as I explained the crank scraper was not snug on the studs so a repeatable 100% reliable fit could not be guaranteed even if the windage tray was not used. I've had enough of engine problems in the past so 100% reliability is the goal. Essentially, it came down to either fitting the scraper by itself with 99% certainty or fitting the windage tray with 100% certainty, certainly not both which was the original aim. Given that the modded windage tray is a good piece and likely to do more than the scraper anyway the final decision was easy.

The lesson is perhaps don't just assume that a bought piece will fit, check it critically for fit and function.

#60 dat2kman

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Posted 28 June 2014 - 12:11 PM

Dowel them, like dowelled intake manis to heads for port matching, or the dowels std on head to block.
The cast alloy L series sumps if dowelled to block in a few places gives the block a heck of a lot more rigidity.

The crank scraper mount holes are bigger to fit over the threads, as shank is waisted down due to the rolled threads being a bee's pecker bigger. Yes they move, too much, hence engine building chapter 7, lesson on dowelling!

What's a Matlock Marathon, is that a in joke thing for old folks?




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