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[GEARBOX] How to change gearbox oil


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#1 Bozo

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 04:31 PM

Hello everyone,

Could you please point me in the right direction as to how I can go about changing my 260Z's gearbox oil?

I have never gone through this procedure before, will be first time.


Many Thanks,
Sam Gungormez

#2 JDSM

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 06:00 PM

I wont have much to say re. changing the oil on your gearbox, but when I did my manual conversion, the FSM was a extremely helpful.

I found my S130 manual on Xenons and it appears they have yours also:

http://www.xenons30.com/reference.html

If it is anything like the 280 gearbag, shouldn't be too hard... 

#3 nizm0zed

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 06:04 PM

Take out the drain plug on the underside (1/2" ratchet drive hole)
Take out the fill plug on the side (Square plug, use a shifter)
Drain the oil into a pan, container, juice bottle, flower pot, wifes tupperware ect..
Insert the bottom drain plug back in, then fill oil in the fill plug until it starts to overflow out the filler.
That is the correct level. usually around 2.5L for the average RWD gearbox.

Pretty simple.

(this isnt covering that some syncros can be 'gummed up' from certain types of oils, viscosity ratings or what oil is best ect)

#4 gav240z

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 06:05 PM

Sam when you do figure it out, and go through it. Would you mind posting a tutorial with photos etc..? In this style?
http://www.viczcar.c....html#msg150692

I'm sure it will help others in future.

#5 Zedman240®

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 07:44 PM

I highly recommend buying one of those oil pumps that screw to the top of the oil bottles to pump the oil up and into the gearbox through the filler plug. Or else you will have to remove the trim and rubber boots from around the shifter and run a hose from inside the car to fill the gearbox (PITA).

#6 Retro Z

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 07:57 PM

Some brands of gearbox oil have a special type of container that can squirt upwards to negate the need for a pump or hose. Or just do what dimitri said and run a hose and funnel throw the shifter hole. Its a pretty easy job. Some people even fill the oil through the shifter hole itself but it isn't the correct method.

#7 Gareth. J.

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Posted 30 April 2014 - 08:16 PM

I highly recommend buying one of those oil pumps that screw to the top of the oil bottles to pump the oil up and into the gearbox through the filler plug.


I use one of these, the brand is 'Tom Thumb'.

#8 Bozo

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Posted 01 May 2014 - 09:23 AM

Thank you dearly for all your responses gentlemen, I really appreciate it.

I'll first check to see whether I can purchase gearbox oil with a self pump pipe before I purchase additional tools for the job.

I've got a 280Z(X) 5 speed manual gearbox so I could imagine it would be the same procedure as the 280ZX manual..

Is there a specific brand/type of oil you prefer or recommend for L-Series gearboxes?


Sam when you do figure it out, and go through it. Would you mind posting a tutorial with photos etc..? In this style?
http://www.viczcar.c....html#msg150692

I'm sure it will help others in future.


Gareth, you mean like this?
http://www.viczcar.c....html#msg103572


Many Thanks,
Sam Gungormez

#9 phillay

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Posted 01 May 2014 - 09:33 AM

I'm planning to change my gearbox and engine oil in 2 weeks time at my mates workshop

I could do a pic by pic thing if people want it (although it is a pretty simple task)

#10 d3c0y

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Posted 01 May 2014 - 10:06 AM

Make sure you open the filler before you drain the oil, as sometimes they freeze in. I couldn't get mine out at all.

#11 PB260Z

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Posted 01 May 2014 - 11:03 AM

Make sure you open the filler before you drain the oil, as sometimes they freeze in. I couldn't get mine out at all.

Really good tip, I got caught by that with a diff once  :(
Also try and have the car as level as possible.

#12 gav240z

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Posted 01 May 2014 - 11:20 AM

So how did you open the stuck filler neck? Heat and a blow torch?

#13 Agno

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Posted 01 May 2014 - 01:12 PM

Is there a specific brand/type of oil you prefer or recommend for L-Series gearboxes?


Sam, get yourself some Redline MT-90, you will need 3 quarts to fill your gearbox and then use a tom thumb through the drain hole. If you can change your engine oil then you can change your gearbox oil, it's easy!

#14 d3c0y

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Posted 01 May 2014 - 05:43 PM

So how did you open the stuck filler neck? Heat and a blow torch?



I had a blow torch, loctite freeze spray, breaker bars the works. I ended up having to fill it through the breather on the top. Shortly after the L34 killed it dead, sent down to Les for scrap and housings.

#15 Bozo

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Posted 02 May 2014 - 07:50 AM

It sounds like a big job with all these blow torches and other tools involved...

Is it something I can do within 2 hours on a Saturday with only a wrench and a socket tool???

#16 Gareth. J.

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Posted 02 May 2014 - 08:56 AM

Yeah Sam it's pretty easy, 30mins should be plenty.

1/2" rachet to undo drain plug on the bottom, 250-300mm shifter to undo fill plug on the side. Do it on level ground, and make sure you can undo the fill plug first.

EDIT: I put all 'female' plugs in my gearbox and diff. I find them stronger than the 'male' square plugs and there's less chance of rounding them off if they are done up tightly.

#17 PB260Z

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Posted 02 May 2014 - 09:30 AM

It sounds like a big job with all these blow torches and other tools involved...

Is it something I can do within 2 hours on a Saturday with only a wrench and a socket tool???

Gidday

Yes - Easily done in 2 hours, often the most annoying part is pumping the oil up into the gearbox (if you don't have a pump)
Warm oil drains better than cold oil, just watch out for the hot exhaust  ;)

#18 gav240z

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Posted 02 May 2014 - 10:57 AM

Yes - provided nothing is frozen stuck. So first check you can undo the filler cap. If so you can drain the old fluid and pump in the new stuff.

This video is pretty accurate in terms of what you need to do.


Except it doesn't include draining the oil - just checking it's level.

#19 Agno

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 10:20 AM

Yeah Sam it's pretty easy, 30mins should be plenty.

1/2" rachet to undo drain plug on the bottom, 250-300mm shifter to undo fill plug on the side. Do it on level ground, and make sure you can undo the fill plug first.

EDIT: I put all 'female' plugs in my gearbox and diff. I find them stronger than the 'male' square plugs and there's less chance of rounding them off if they are done up tightly.


Do you have a part number for the female plugs by any chance? My R33's drain plug is completely stuffed thanks to the previous owner trying to use a rattle gun on it and I'm 95% sure the plugs are the same.

#20 Gareth. J.

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Posted 05 May 2014 - 07:01 PM

Do you have a part number for the female plugs by any chance? My R33's drain plug is completely stuffed thanks to the previous owner trying to use a rattle gun on it and I'm 95% sure the plugs are the same.


Sorry mate, I don't have the part numbers. You can them from any R180 diff, even the old Subaru's. There was a few at centre rd wreckers two weeks ago.




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