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Help, Strut top hat stripped thread.


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#1 Gareth. J.

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Posted 30 March 2014 - 05:34 PM

I have SWM offset strut tops and I have managed to strip the threads on one stud and a second stud is close to going also. Unfortunately they are off set so it's not just a case of buying a new cheap one. Is there any way to replace the studs in these?

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#2 d3c0y

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 09:23 AM

Might be cheaper just to make some flat alloy ones like on modern coilovers. Then you can have a monoball and still get them offset?

#3 luvemfast

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 10:29 AM

Can you weld onto the studs, remove them and install new ones?

#4 Gareth. J.

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 05:38 PM

Might be cheaper just to make some flat alloy ones like on modern coilovers. Then you can have a monoball and still get them offset?

I was trying to be a tight wad and hopefully fix them myself  ;D

Can you weld onto the studs, remove them and install new ones?


I figured they're like a wheel stud with a spline and need to be removed from the back. Are they just a stud similar to a manifold stud  ??? That would make it easy

#5 PB260Z

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 07:08 PM

IIRC the studs are pressed in then the rubber added afterwards.
Is it an option to recut a smaller thread on the damaged one ? Or would that reduce the holding strength to much ?

Just my two cents worth.

#6 Retro Z

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 07:24 PM

If thats a stock type isolator you can throw it in the oven for a few minutes to seperate the rubber from the shell and then u can hammer the stud out just like a wheel stud. I know this as my friend done the oven trick in order to trim the isolator for added suspension travel.

#7 luvemfast

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 08:34 PM

Tai's idea sounds promising

#8 Gareth. J.

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 08:35 PM

IIRC the studs are pressed in then the rubber added afterwards.
Is it an option to recut a smaller thread on the damaged one ? Or would that reduce the holding strength to much ?

Just my two cents worth.


I did think about going smaller and re-threading but I was concerned about strength. The two problem studs are on the same top.

If thats a stock type isolator you can throw it in the oven for a few minutes to seperate the rubber from the shell and then u can hammer the stud out just like a wheel stud. I know this as my friend done the oven trick in order to trim the isolator for added suspension travel.


How did he re-bond them? Is it only the rubber that holds the two parts together? These one are urethane, I don't know if that matters at all


#9 Retro Z

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Posted 31 March 2014 - 09:30 PM

He used some sort of Shoe contact adhesive if i remember correctly. Not sure if your urethane one would work.. but if its anything like the stock one it was 2 discs of rubber than sandwiches a metal plate with the 3 studs pressed in with a outer shell surrounding it all. He just heated it up for 10 minutes at a lowish heat and pryed it apart, trimmed and reassembled. He said the weight and spring compression means the glue was not a major concern. He's been driving the car for over 2 years and is still alive so i'm guessing it would be ok?

If u manage to get yours apart i have some stock isolators you can have for free to salvage the studs from.

#10 Lurch ™

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 06:18 AM

As a first step, have you tried running a Die-Nut down the threads to clean them up?

The rubber is vulcanized around the steel housing, so you'll end up destroying them just to repair the thread.
If they are that badly damaged, I wouldn't waste your time G-man. Just get on to SW Motorsport or MSA & order some new ones.

For something that is placed under so much load at the track, why would you want to re-install something that may compromise you & your Zeds safety?

#11 Gareth. J.

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 04:10 PM

Yeah mate I did try the die but it didn't really do much and the threads aren't nearly as deep as the other studs. I wonder if it has stretched a little too, either that or the strut bar has been chewing them out.

I've never really bothered to look at these too much so I wasn't sure if the were serviceable or not. SWM list them at $115 per side which seems pretty good.

Thanks Gents

#12 d3c0y

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 04:52 PM

Why not go adjustable camber tops? They cost that much money.

#13 Gareth. J.

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Posted 01 April 2014 - 07:24 PM

I'm quite happy at the current camber setting, I actually decreased it to -2deg it was quicker with better tyre wear

#14 d3c0y

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 09:27 AM

Do you have adjustable front lower control arms? You can easy get -2 degrees out of the and then you can just run a normal strut top?

#15 Gareth. J.

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 01:47 PM

I also have offset roll centre spacers that give -2degrees of camber. They sit on top of the steering arm and under the strut, they're great cause there's no need to alter the tie rod lengths. I use the offset tops to give more caster with actually pushing the wheel further foward.

#16 d3c0y

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 03:10 PM

Ahh right yup makes sense. How much extra castor do you get from it?

#17 Cozza

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Posted 02 April 2014 - 07:27 PM

I also have offset roll centre spacers that give -2degrees of camber.


Hey Gareth, where did you get them from?
Ive been looking for spacers, offset ones giving 2' neg camber sound like a good option.

Cheers
Mick

#18 Gareth. J.

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 06:41 AM

Ahh right yup makes sense. How much extra castor do you get from it?


Im not sure exactly what 1deg is equal to in mm. I had it setup at stock settings, plus whatever extra the top hats gave. I have adjustable tc rods but haven't dialed them in properly yet.

Hey Gareth, where did you get them from?
Ive been looking for spacers, offset ones giving 2' neg camber sound like a good option.


The spacers I got from Japan. They're also available from 'T.I.Baby' I can send you a link tonight. I thought they were good because you don't end up running the tie rods close to the limit of their extension.

#19 d3c0y

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 10:34 AM

1 degree seems like f-all to me and you will be able to get more than that out of your adjustable castor rods. Generally it's limited by hitting the front of the guard. So my point is if you have the adjustable strut tops to get a measly 1 degree of extra castor and you have castor rods that will go past that, they arent worth buying again!

#20 Gareth. J.

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Posted 03 April 2014 - 04:14 PM

Yeah I know what you mean. The tyre clearance to the guards is worse with more camber so even though i only have 225 tyres at -2 degrees I've had to shave 10mm off the lower section of the G-nose to stop the tyres rubbing. Even with adjustable tc rods I don't think I'll get much more. That's where the offset tops come in handy.

The prices of new standard isolators Vs. offset SWM type seem very similar.

Edit!

Here's a link to those roll centre adjusters Mick http://www.ti-baby.com/index.html
ZCCJDM in the USA can get them too.




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