Posted 21 March 2014 - 03:19 PM
Posted 21 March 2014 - 03:54 PM
I know someone who is using one and it works well and i saw one for sale on ebay aus a few weeks back that went for $1300ish.
But money is money and if i can find a cheaper alternative i will, and if it can help others who are on a budget even better.
Posted 21 March 2014 - 04:49 PM
Posted 21 March 2014 - 04:53 PM
For sure, if it started to hit the 1k mark i'd definitely go for the electric power steering option, seems like a very elegant solution.
Posted 22 March 2014 - 05:37 PM
I believe David was referring to his own specialty build where he has fitted the "M3 BMW L6"
I may be wrong........................Oh David, calling David, can you clarify?
Yep that is from my PS thread.
The image you posted doesn't look like an SW20 rack to me. The reason I didn't use an SW20 rack is that the port which sends fluid to the left hand side of the rack piston was right in the middle of the left hand S30 rack mounting bracket. Not a big deal but would mean fabricating a new left hand mounting bracket which I didn't want to do from and engineering approval perspective.
The WRX rack works a treat, Ive driven Jamo's and its feel is as good as anything factory, Why frig around with anything else if you want to go hydraulic?
For you I would just go with the electrically assisted rack and be done with it. They seem like a good thing.
Posted 22 March 2014 - 06:01 PM
Good to see you don't miss a beat on here............... ;-)
We are just theorising and looking at alternatives Buddy, where's the fun if we don't push the envelope ? If someone hadn't tried a WRX or BMW rack in the past we would all be poorer for it ;-)
Posted 22 March 2014 - 06:19 PM
Posted 22 March 2014 - 06:24 PM
Do I take it you have the one in the photo in your hands?
Posted 22 March 2014 - 08:33 PM
Looking at the photos, I think the fluid line in the middle of the rack would foul the harmonic balancer for straight 6 engines. It could be relocated, but another modification that the engineers don't like (welding, drilling, cutting of steering components).
The Subaru rack is not inordinately difficult to fit, but does have the clearance issue with the RHS engine mount pedestal...if you are a half useful fabricator though, it's not hard to sort out. I also reindexed the rotary valve body on mine, which overcame routing of the fluid lines. It fits fine in my car, and uses the RB25 power steering pump. Most of all.....it WORKS!
Posted 22 March 2014 - 09:28 PM
Do I take it you have the one in the photo in your hands?
No, not yet john just a pic i found online. Been doing some researching and the mx5/miata rack looks almost identical and very close in size the the mr2/240z rack aswell.
Posted 23 March 2014 - 07:17 AM
Happy to share what I know of the installation, including part numbers and all that. Pics and such are in my build thread....see link below.
http://www.viczcar.c...c,9281.30.html Check out page 3 or so.
I will chase up the details on the Subie rack I used (it wasn't wrx...I didn't use that as it had too few turns lock to lock....I wanted a little less rapid turn in, as with the R spec tyres I had the car was too darty, and the subie (I think might have been a Leonie...will confirm), it ended up with the same turns lock to lock as the OEM 240Z rack)...when I changed to Dunlop Direzza tyres, it is spot on...good turn in without being darty.) Tie rod ends are factory Subaru (once again, will confirm), and the inner tie rod ends are off a Toyota Lexus (I will advise model). It all bolts together without any mods.
The rack itself needs to be shortened about 13mm each end (Rob at Robco engineering does that), and I also cut the ears off the rotary valve housing and reindexed them to a more suitable position for the fluid lines, which you will see in the pics work out quite well. Rob also did that at Robco and I have had no problems with any of that.
The mods to the cross member were pretty straight forward....you have to take care with dimensional control to ensure the rack is centered and at the right height to avoid bump steer, but if you're taking on a job like this and can't fabricate, you'd be better to pay someone else to do the fab part.
I will post the answers above when I have the info together...any other questions just ask.
Posted 23 March 2014 - 08:49 AM
Jamo240 do you have photos of the fabrication before you installed it? I wanted to also do the subaru rack but found very little info on how to actually make it all work. Many people speak about it, but don't really disclose fine details etc. Also pictures speak a thousand words and would definately help many people out. If you could give a few pointers on what tie rods/model rack you used etc i could buy it all, fab up something similar and do a tutorial on it.
Tai, pretty well everything you will need can be found here http://www.viczcar.c...pic,7174.0.html
Posted 23 March 2014 - 08:59 AM
Im also told there is a quite new/modern corolla you can use, abundance of availability, but yet to confirm.
Posted 23 March 2014 - 10:43 AM
I'm also looking into the possibility of buying several racks, tie rods and crossmembers. Getting the lines and machining all done at the one time to save on labour and R&D then sell them on as a bolt in package (for a very small profit) to the Z community. You could call it a public service.
Posted 23 March 2014 - 01:16 PM
I'm still keen to find out if the MR2 rack is indeed the rack that this guy in the US used, and if not, which one?
Posted 23 March 2014 - 06:29 PM
which is a completely backwards way to go about the issue of heavy steering in a S30 chassis.
Read up on suspension geometry people & stop being sheep...
Posted 23 March 2014 - 07:27 PM
My rack was $250, rack rod ends $140, Robco was very reasonably priced, engine came with a PS pump so I reckon all up the conversion including hoses will be less than $700.
Ultimately its up to the individual but I'm looking to build a car that is a 70's car in look only, everything else has to be as contemporary as possible and drive like a modern car.
Posted 23 March 2014 - 08:19 PM
For one i have 275 width tyres upfront, turbo engine with alot of heavy hardware over the front wheels. I will be driving it often on the street, shopping, stop/start traffic, city driving. I live in a concrete jungle where tight driveways are the norm..not somewhere with wide open roads. Having to maneuver the car out of my 4 car garage isn't the easiest of tasks. I will also be doing the odd track day and i want it easy for my missus to drive too. I know it may not be necessary but I've spent all this money on the thing another 1k won't hurt if its going to make it easier to live with. I'd just rather do the fab work myself rather than outsource because i feel like it and want to learn how to do it. Get with the times its not much more different to getting a efi rb25 or power windows. Don't be so precious people!.
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