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#61 gav240z

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 09:21 AM

Lurch what about a propane torch to heat it up? Is there any reason you use a TIG welder? A youtube video demonstrating might help me visualise what you mean exactly?

I've tried removing a broken bolt with a screw extractor set, it didn't work out so well....

#62 gav240z

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 09:24 AM

Whilst on the subject of broken bolts, is there a recommend tap and die set for working with the Z and it's bolt sizes?

#63 George

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 09:25 AM

I watched this video last night Gav. I like his channel, he posts some useful stuff.



#64 gav240z

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 09:27 AM

@George - I was reading Wick Humble's book on restoring your Z last night and found that he mentioned Motorsport Auto was reproducing the Center Consoles for various years.

http://www.thezstore...ZS/PROD/40-2401

It's just the bare console (no ash tray, coin holder, or choke / trim etc..) but I spent about $100 on materials fixing mine up (granted I have lots of left over stuff also). I guess if mine packs it in, I have this is as a back up?

They also have the earlier style shift boot.
http://www.thezstore...ic08e04/40-2502

I'm gonna ask good old mum if she can sew a new 1 for me with materials from spot light lol... $70 is a little high..

#65 mossy

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 09:34 AM

I was going to get the MSA console too but the shipping was over $300 with a couple of other very small items.

#66 George

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 09:38 AM

@George - I was reading Wick Humble's book on restoring your Z last night and found that he mentioned Motorsport Auto was reproducing the Center Consoles for various years.

http://www.thezstore...ZS/PROD/40-2401

It's just the bare console (no ash tray, coin holder, or choke / trim etc..) but I spent about $100 on materials fixing mine up (granted I have lots of left over stuff also). I guess if mine packs it in, I have this is as a back up?


Gav, if it can be saved I believe it should be. I would rather have an original part with a bit of patina than a new shiny reproduction one. Having said that, there is a limit and if it is dangerous to use or it just looks bad, case in point my rear lights, then there is little choice but to replace it.

To be honest I wouldn't hesitate buying one of those consoles to store away. The fibreglass units will only last so long.

Mark, group buy! No doubt I'll be buying lots of bits and pieces from the states so I'll be looking to consolidate as much as possible.

#67 Lurch ™

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 11:13 AM

I watched this video last night Gav. I like his channel, he posts some useful stuff.


BAD BAD BAD BAD BAD! DO NOT do that!!!
I could have gotten that broken stud out in 10mins with the Tig.

I posted this on another forum:

If I ever break a head off a bolt, or sheer a stud off, I simply Tig weld the end of the bolt/stud - getting it HOT & molten on the end - then letting it briefly cool before starting again this time adding filler rod, let cool slightly, then repeat so you build up a lump that is about 10 to 15mm tall.
Quench with water till it's totally cool, then using vice grips, clamp onto the lump & start carefully rotating it backwards & forwards till you can fully undo the stud.

This works EVERY time & eliminates the chance of breaking a Ezy-out in a drilled hole.
It works on Ti, Stainless, Mild steel, Alum, brass, copper... etc


My neighbor has a video camera, so I'll shoot some footage tonight showing the procedure.

#68 George

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 11:23 AM


My neighbor has a video camera, so I'll shoot some footage tonight showing the procedure.


Thumbs up!

Thanks.

#69 CroS13

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 07:08 PM

Lurch what about a propane torch to heat it up? Is there any reason you use a TIG welder? A youtube video demonstrating might help me visualise what you mean exactly?


propane torch is no good, the flame would heat the panel along with the bolt, you cant target precicely the bolt only, as the flame front would also be hitting the panel, probably be prone to warping it also. Tig allows you to have the most control over where the heat goes, and more of a controlled weld opposed to a mig. when your welding the top of the bolt, your doing 2 things, heating it up and expanding it, hopefully to break/crack the thread/rust, and giving you something to grab onto with a pair of vice grips.

If the bolts are tight, but might come out with penetrating fluid, id recommend Rost off, or even better, Rost off ICE, which apparently freezes to -30 degrees? (or so it says on the can). What that does is shrink the bolt, once again trying to crack and break the seized threads. Ive had great success with it in the past.

Rudolf.

#70 mossy

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 07:15 PM


Mark, group buy! No doubt I'll be buying lots of bits and pieces from the states so I'll be looking to consolidate as much as possible.


Let me know George, if I haven't found one by then I'll be interested.

#71 Lurch ™

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 08:43 PM

OK...
I made this VERY rough, quick video this afternoon.
It's not perfect, but I hope it shows the CORRECT way to extract a corroded bolt. (Thank fook I'm not a TV presenter!)



Cheers!

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#72 Zedman240®

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 08:50 PM

Seen the master at work removing a heap of broken studs/bolts from my chassis rails and can verify..it works perfectly...

#73 George

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 08:55 PM

OK...
I made this VERY rough, quick video this afternoon.
It's not perfect, but I hope it shows the CORRECT way to extract a corroded bolt. (Thank fook I'm not a TV presenter!)



Cheers!


Very thorough. Now if only it were that easy for chumps like me. I bet you I'd end up welding the stud to the body!

Many thanks. You make it look easy.

#74 gav240z

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 10:21 PM

Let me know George, if I haven't found one by then I'll be interested.


Just an FYI, this 'could' be what they look like...
http://s1112.photobu...c65e29.jpg.html
http://s1112.photobu...a86ee4.jpg.html
http://s1112.photobu...dc1b0c.jpg.html

Found it here.
http://forums.hybrid...rs-rad-shrouds/

In which case it's missing the coin holder hole and rear screw holes and I'm not sure how you would fix the choke/throttle to the console without modifying it quite a bit..

If it is the MSA reproduction then I'd be a bit disappointed with it to be honest, why bother doing it, if you're not going to do it properly. Surely it's not that much harder to create it properly?

It would certainly go some way toward explaining why the originals (in shabby shape) are still getting decent money used. Don't throw anything out is all I'll say!

#75 gav240z

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Posted 03 February 2014 - 11:37 PM

George here is some fresh Safari Gold inspiration ;).

Posted Image

I just love this colour the more I see it on Zeds.

When we finish our projects we will have to do a similar photo yes?

#76 George

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 09:03 AM

Gav, that doesn't look like the MSA one. Looks like a home job.

Thanks for the inspiration, they look great together.  :D I haven't decided on a colour yet but it will most likely be white.

Did some more work last night. The grinder came out! I showed those stubborn bolts.  ;)


Original clip (piece of wire even) that secures the shifter pin. Selling it for $145
Posted Image

Original wood screws used to attach the fuse box to the tranny tunnel. Selling for $75. Each that is.
Posted Image

These actually are original body parts and they're not for sale. Is this meant to happen when you remove the rear bumper?
Posted Image


More original parts for sale soon...

#77 gav240z

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 09:19 AM

I haven't decided on a colour yet but it will most likely be white.


It's your choice, but since it's such an early car and you still have the original L24 I'd be tempted to put it back to the factory assigned colour myself.

This might help sway you ;).
http://www.studiotim...s_toyota_2000gt

PS: Can you believe a 'professional' restoration shop bogged up a 2000GT like that?

#78 Brabham

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 01:25 PM

Snap-On do a thread restorer kit Gav. Not cheap, but made in USA. Note it is not meant to be used as a tap and die set, only for cleaning up threads where they have been cross-threaded etc. Some one may know a good tap and die set? P & N are a reasonable quality tap.

Cheers

#79 sydney mike

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 03:36 PM

First dibs on the fusebox screws thanks!

Hey G, it's your car but I have to agree with Gav on the colour. The first two Zeds I inspected when looking to buy were safari gold. Here's another two pics, one is  HS30-0236 which I will write more about when I do my journal and the other is one of the "factory" restored ones from the USA.

Posted Image

Posted Image

cheers, Mike.

#80 George

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Posted 04 February 2014 - 04:20 PM

Mike, is that first one the one that you looked at a while back?

I agree it's a gorgeous colour and it shows off the curves exceptionally well. Much more so than white if I'm honest. I haven't made up my mind one way or another and the paint stage is so far ahead that I'm not wasting too much time on it for now. As it stands, it could be easier to just paint it a rusty colour to match most of the panels. :P




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