Safari Brown... I mean Gold - The NSW Project

[d3c0y]

Yes flares are coming, along with a Leyland / Rover V8, whale tail and Panterra hatch conversion.

 

 

Wow that's nasty! I dont think rover v8s and pantera hatches are in the same class. Can you even get rover V8s any more?

 

 

I guess i did post it to get a reaction haha 

 

 

Anyway I still love Wangan midnight clones! What if i say my car was a Z-G and I just did a flat nose conversion on it?

The irony is if they all came as G-Noses everyone would be do doing a hella-cool flat nose conversion!

 

On a slightly different topic what colour is this car?http://www.7tune.com/feature-the-fairlady-zed-432r/I am guessing Kalahari Tan Orange, but the lighting makes it looks almost Safari Gold.

It's just photoshop trickery. It's the normal zed orange, but someone has grabbed the saturation slider and moved it all the way to AWESOME! Look at the red walls they are almost glowing they are so over-pumped. Another easy way to tell if the saturation has been abused is grass goes fluorescent green, look at the trees in the photos further down. Also the contrast has been stuffed with the end result being artificial looking photos.

 

 

[HS30-H]

Looks like 918 orange...

 

Yes, it's 918 - or a close modern match to it.

 

Reason being that the original builder was briefed to make a stock 432 into a 432R lookeylikey, and all 432Rs sold to the general public were 918 Grand Prix Orange.

[gav240z]

Just had a funny conversation with the Tow Truck driver over the phone. He said "do you mind me asking how much you would pay for a car like that?". He then went on to explain that they are getting really hard to find the 2 seaters, he mentioned that there's a few 260z 2 seaters but 240z's - you just don't see them anymore....

 

When I spoke to the seller the other day over the phone, he said "mate, you wouldn't believe how many people I had calling me about that 240z after the auction ended".

 

Let's just hope when she arrives she's in 1 piece, with that 240z recently stolen I've all of a sudden become a bit nervous.

[mossy]

Probably the other bidders Gav thinking crap I should of bid an extra $500 hopefully the buyer pulls the pin.

[gav240z]

Car is already on its way it should be here tomorrow. I'm more worried about people seeing it on the truck or trying to pull bits off it etc.. If they see it stopped anywhere.

[ZED660]

Hey Gav,

Just dont take it near Beecroft!

[PB260Z]

Car is already on its way it should be here tomorrow. I'm more worried about people seeing it on the truck or trying to pull bits off it etc.. If they see it stopped anywhere.

Just in time for a Christmas holiday project 

If you need a hand getting her running let me know. I will toss the tools in the back of FJ and drop over.

 

 

[gav240z]

Brace yourselves, Z-car pics are coming...

 

So the 240z arrived today in the late afternoon. It was a hot day in Sydney and we (the tow truck guy) and I managed to get the 240z down the driveway and into my yard. The tow truck driver seemed keen to sit behind the wheel, he was asking if I'll restore it etc.. and then said should put an RB26 in it. I mentioned it was an early car worth keeping original, but he seemed uninterested in that sort of silly talk.

 

First thing I noticed, driver door handle is broken. It lifts but does nothing so you have to access the car through the passenger door. Not a big deal, but it will get annoying.

 

Rust in all the usual places, which on a 240z means everywhere! .

 

I have to say I had a mixture of excitement and a hint of, Oh Noes what have I got myself into. But only just a little bit. For the most part I'm really anxious to 'carefully' rip into it.

 

I found some old rego stickers going back to 92/92/94

 

 

Notice how it was classified as a 71 model? I thought that was funny considering how early she is.

 

Drivers side still had the original DR Lucas headlight.

 

 

I haven't seen these since my 73 240z...

 

The passenger side though was a GE item.

 

Panel beating is hard work apparently.... so someone gave up.

 

Check out how long the grass is....my lawn mover won't start. Going to try a new spark plug tomorrow. Spent the afternoon taking it apart. Bloody Victor mower's lol..

 

 

No stowage bins.

 

Those cheese grater style holes are a weird shape because it's the sound deadener that's  cracked not the metal underneath. No stowage bins obviously due to being an early girl.

 

Still has the original anodized style hood hinges. Most 240z's by now have these painted....

 

Sunroof is an 80s item looks like Aussie made too.

 

Ashtray lid why you snapped?

 

Glovebox stickers, not sure if they're all original?

 

It would be awesome to re-create them as part of it's restoration.

 

 

Adam (A.K.A Mr Brown Hornet) - please sit down, because I'm about to show you the original lap belts and i know you're going to get excited..

 

Another item that would be good to replicate the logo of...

 

Dashboard...

I'm always amazed that the glove boxes in these are not in pieces. Considering they are made from uber expensive cardboard material.

 

 

It has a mystery 5-speed. So secret it's not written on the knob .

 

Early style map light. It points into the cabin, where as the later ones point downward more...

 

The floors are probably the worst part of all.

 

They look like they have been in a boxing match... guess these are going to get replaced anyway.

 

Original Nissan key.

 

Choke knob seems different, must be an earlier style no?

 

Early steering wheel had no spokes cut out of it.

 

Going to need help figuring out what these do. My 72 doesn't have these here.

 

Pioneer - not hitachi I'm afraid.

 

Still has original Nissan stamped glass. I always read it as Nissan Template instead of Temperlite

 

Spot the rust.

 

Drivers sill and door (will more than likely need a new door skin or fix the existing 1).

 

I got sills, with different rust holes.

 

Someone has tried to bog the doors at 1 point.

 

 

Lower front wing..

 

I want my Datsun badges back

 

In fact all the badges are gone, someone has nicked them at some point when it was sitting around I guess.

 

 

Yeah mate I wanna fit a tow bar to my 240z so I can tow caravans or something..

 

Seems like a stock muffler with aftermarket tip welded on..

 

Bit of a pinch..

 

 

For a good time call...

 

Original sticker is coming loose on water/washer bottle.

 

I find your lack of rust disturbing. Cowl isn't rusty...

 

These NGK leads are the BOSS my old 240z had them, they are really high quality and good fit on the old L-series. Anyone know if they are still about?

 

Chassis is dead straight.

 

Another original sticker.

 

Fragments of original stickers under the hood.

 

 

Paint Code Sticker under bonnet. 920 has been rubbed off ;(

 

 

Minor rust on front wing.

 

Firewall rust..

 

Battery tray - rusty but not rusted.

 

Still has original battery tray - I've never seen a 240z still have 1 of these!

 

Door and front wing are a little close.

 

 

Sunroof - you were hot shit in the 80s if you had 1 of these.

 

1/4 panel roof stress crack. I'm guessing under here lies a surprise for me .

 

Usually they rust good up here, but seems pretty good on this car.

 

Someone replaced the diamnond vinyl which I love with shag pile carpet

 

But I did like this feature...

 

Spare Wheel Well only has surface rust to contend with.

 

Rear of boot area, you can see it has a slight bend due to the rear hit.

 

 

Jute Material and Spare Wheel Cover.

 

Shame I can't redeem this voucher!

 

Rear number plate assembly and vent for rear hatch.

 

I couldn't believe this wasn't even cracked.

 

It feels very fragile though...I think the later ones were better quality no?

 

But if you look closely you'll see I scored some replacement chassis rails.

 

Vintage carpets.

 

Storage box - cracked pretty well beyond recovery.

 

Missing console piece.

 

Nissan Datsun Sports Owners Club Newsletter from 1992! - Simon will loose his shit over this .

 

Rear hatch slam panel looks ok from top, but she's got rust underneath..

 

Nice use of body fill.

 

 

Tape was used as the rear light unit is a bit loose and didn't want it to fall off.

 

 

I was going to turf these but then I thought hmmm maybe I should keep them? Install them again when it's finished or something?

 

 

[Zedback]

For a 40+ year old car that's got a drop in sunroof and has had a hit up the rear it's remarkably rust free.  Doesn't look a thing like mine! 

Congrats.  Get a rotisserie, welder, grinder, hammer and a vice and just go for it. 

[zzzzed]

You got an awesome buy there mate.

[George]

You got an awesome buy there mate.

 

Agree.

 

Have a blast Gav.

 

Just out of curiosity, how much would it cost if you had to pay someone to do all the rust repairs?

[C.A.R.]

All those photos seem remarkably familiar...

 

If you need any conformation shots from my Early Girl, yet sing out

[mossy]

Glad to see you got it there safe Gav. That 1/4  crack near the roof line, I'm pretty sure thats where the lead fill join is, mine had the same sort of crack but there were no suprises underneath.

 

I've got a left over wheel arch repair section from my 240 if you need it.

 

[gav240z]

For a 40+ year old car that's got a drop in sunroof and has had a hit up the rear it's remarkably rust free.  Doesn't look a thing like mine! 

Congrats.  Get a rotisserie, welder, grinder, hammer and a vice and just go for it. 

 

Thanks mate, you've certainly helped inspire me to take the plunge on this 1.

 

You got an awesome buy there mate.

 

Yeah all things considered I'm pretty happy with it.

 

Agree.

 

Have a blast Gav.

 

Just out of curiosity, how much would it cost if you had to pay someone to do all the rust repairs?

 

Hmmm I guess it depends if you stripped the car yourself etc.. I got Rob at ZFactory in Victoria to do some rust repair on my other 240z, which consisted of sills, rear of chassis rails etc.. from memory it was very reasonable prices. I can't recall exact amount now as it was 10 years ago nearly!

 

I would need to look it up. But rust repairs are the most expensive part of restoring a Z I'd say. That and finding all the missing bits and pieces.

 

This will definitely be a budget build.

 

All those photos seem remarkably familiar...

 

If you need any conformation shots from my Early Girl, yet sing out

 

Thanks matey, maybe I can come down for a few welding lessons? .

 

Glad to see you got it there safe Gav. That 1/4  crack near the roof line, I'm pretty sure thats where the lead fill join is, mine had the same sort of crack but there were no suprises underneath.

 

I've got a left over wheel arch repair section from my 240 if you need it.

 

 

 

Mate I'll take any charity I can get. If I don't use it I'll make sure someone does. So yes I'd love to grab that off you.

 

 

[gav240z]

Oh yeah I checked the motor oil, it's of a milky consistency (not black, but a milkshake grey). Perhaps it blew a head gasket? Has the E31 head on an L28 bottom end. Aftermarket extractors (the ones we see on loads of Aussie Zeds) and still running points distributor.

 

I think my first step is to slot in a motor and see if it will fire up, at least that way I know it will run and I can possibly move it around the yard under it's own power. Then gradually I'll tackle sections of rust and as a I build the confidence up I'll look at putting it up on a rotisserie (gonna have to learn to spell that word, think I'll be using it a lot). .

 

It was funny the Tow Truck driver said "shame about the sunroof" and I laughed to myself and thought, yep that's the 1 thing out of the whole car I'm disappointed about, but I'll keep an eye out for a 2 seater roof.

 

I have a spare bonnet also, but I might see if I can use a hammer and dolly on the original one and beat her back into shape. What's the worst that can happen? .

 

Might also paint it flat black like the 432R's and Alan's replica project, leave the under side in Safari gold.

 

The fuel tank has overspray on it (from when someone tried to touch up the backend) and the fuel tank has taken a bit of a beating on the underside. So I might look for another tank.

[Brabham]

Pretty nice zed there Gav, good that you scored some chassis rails too, only remove as little metal as you need to do the repair, always best to keep as much original metal as possible, although you still need to make sure all the rust is gone/treated.

 

Sounds like headgasket has gone, if you are going to pull engine out probably not worth putting one back in as the bay needs some work on it, pump the tires up high and two people can push it around on the flat ok.

 

I thought the original headlights were Koito's? That is what is stamped on the headlight housings and I have seen car with lamps to match, Lucas was British and GE US, Koito's are Japanese made so would make sense.

 

The two switches are 1)NOS and 2)Methanol-water injection. No, don't know what they are for either but look aftermarket even though there are cutouts for them-someone will know.

 

My vote for new wheels goes to original steelies and the plastic covers - everyone has Wats now!

 

Good luck with it 

[mossy]

Mate I'll take any charity I can get. If I don't use it I'll make sure someone does. So yes I'd love to grab that off you.

 

No worries Gav, just cover the postage and I can send it or you can see if someone can take it on a Melb to Sydney trip

[vorn70]

Now you know what you have got you can make a start. I like your idea to start on the areas  you have the confidence with, you will be surprised how your skills will improve and the areas where you started you will look back on and say I could of done that better, but I like the idea of the car telling a story in a "home shed" restoration. Good Luck mate, and you know better than anyone everything you will need to do has been done by a member on this forum. I know what I have read on this forum has helped me  heaps.

[zzzzed]

Now you know what you have got you can make a start. I like your idea to start on the areas  you have the confidence with, you will be surprised how your skills will improve and the areas where you started you will look back on and say I could of done that better, but I like the idea of the car telling a story in a "home shed" restoration. Good Luck mate, and you know better than anyone everything you will need to do has been done by a member on this forum. I know what I have read on this forum has helped me  heaps.

 

Good advice. I am still learning. Check this forum out for tips.

 

 

http://allmetalshaping.com/

[PB260Z]

Oh yeah I checked the motor oil, it's of a milky consistency (not black, but a milkshake grey). Perhaps it blew a head gasket? Has the E31 head on an L28 bottom end. Aftermarket extractors (the ones we see on loads of Aussie Zeds) and still running points distributor.

 

I think my first step is to slot in a motor and see if it will fire up, at least that way I know it will run and I can possibly move it around the yard under it's own power. Then gradually I'll tackle sections of rust and as a I build the confidence up I'll look at putting it up on a rotisserie (gonna have to learn to spell that word, think I'll be using it a lot). .

 

I agree most likely the head gasket is blown. That doesn't nesecarily mean it wont run and give you enough grunt to move it around. Would be worth trying even if just for shivs and giggles ????

 

 

[Riceburner]

Nice one Gav!

 

I think the lead cracking is a result of chasis flexing, You can fix it yourself if you're brave. Have a look for "Peach & Tomasini" dvd's, those guys are masters.

 

BTW. How come you can post so many pics in one reply? Lol

 

 

[HS30-H]

Going to need help figuring out what these do. My 72 doesn't have these here.

 

Upper one was originally left as a 'blank' indentation from the factory, with no switch installed. It was reserved as the location for the Fog Lamp switch, should the owner choose to specify the extra-cost option fog lamp kit. Original and genuine fog lamp switches are SUPER rare. Looks like a previous owner installed a switch for something else there.

 

The lower one is usually the hazard flasher switch.

[HS30-H]

My vote for new wheels goes to original steelies and the plastic covers - everyone has Wats now!

 

The original hubcaps / wheel trims were pressed steel. If they were plastic they wouldn't hurt so much when one falls off the shelf in the garage and lands on your head.

 

You can guess how I know this.....

[Riceburner]

The original hubcaps / wheel trims were pressed steel. If they were plastic they wouldn't hurt so much when one falls off the shelf in the garage and lands on your head.

 

You can guess how I know this.....

 

Haha. Hazards of the hobby.

 

I also like the look of the hubcaps, what about some re-barrelled steelies. 14x8's Nice OEM look with plenty of grip

[gav240z]

No worries Gav, just cover the postage and I can send it or you can see if someone can take it on a Melb to Sydney trip

 

I'll be in Melbourne around Christmas I can come pick it up .

 

Now you know what you have got you can make a start. I like your idea to start on the areas  you have the confidence with, you will be surprised how your skills will improve and the areas where you started you will look back on and say I could of done that better, but I like the idea of the car telling a story in a "home shed" restoration. Good Luck mate, and you know better than anyone everything you will need to do has been done by a member on this forum. I know what I have read on this forum has helped me  heaps.

 

Yeah for sure, I'll start with the floors I think, as they will be hidden by carpet and what I'm currently thinking is rather than strip it down completely and sandblast I'll fix up the critical areas that are coming through, then I'll focus on interior, engine bay and finish off with a full strip / blast and full repaint (which is probably when I'll remove the sunroof also).

 

This way I can revise what I did before and fix it and improve it later .

 

Pretty nice zed there Gav, good that you scored some chassis rails too, only remove as little metal as you need to do the repair, always best to keep as much original metal as possible, although you still need to make sure all the rust is gone/treated.

 

Yeah that's the aim mate.

 

Sounds like headgasket has gone, if you are going to pull engine out probably not worth putting one back in as the bay needs some work on it, pump the tires up high and two people can push it around on the flat ok.

 

Yeah i agree, more than likely the gasket gone.

 

I thought the original headlights were Koito's? That is what is stamped on the headlight housings and I have seen car with lamps to match, Lucas was British and GE US, Koito's are Japanese made so would make sense.

 

Yeah it would make sense that Koito supplied the originals, my other 240z had Lucas units and it was pretty original so I thought it was standard.

 

My vote for new wheels goes to original steelies and the plastic covers - everyone has Wats now!

 

Good luck with it 

 

Wats are a good thing, it won't hurt to have the originals also - perhaps with white wall tyres? .

 

Now you know what you have got you can make a start. I like your idea to start on the areas  you have the confidence with, you will be surprised how your skills will improve and the areas where you started you will look back on and say I could of done that better, but I like the idea of the car telling a story in a "home shed" restoration. Good Luck mate, and you know better than anyone everything you will need to do has been done by a member on this forum. I know what I have read on this forum has helped me  heaps.

 

Yeah I've sat idle for 6-7 years watching as other cars slowly take shape and getting frustrated I didn't have a garage or space of my own to do the same. The RX-7 got a very light restoration all things considered but it gave me a huge sense of satisfaction rebuilding something that would have been scrapped by insurance. I really regret not finishing my first 240z. Of course I was much younger, much more broke and probably worst of all afraid to try, thinking I would stuff it up.

 

I've looked back all these years with regret about it, so this time I'm going to dive in.

http://www.viczcar.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=199

 

I didn't realise at the time how original it was for a 240z and how rare it was to find such a complete car like that. Being my first car it still holds sentimental value, would love to see it on the road again in future. So who knows this might be the first restoration I do, followed by more Zeds in future. The only way to get good at this sort of work is practice .

 

Good advice. I am still learning. Check this forum out for tips.

 

 

http://allmetalshaping.com/

 

Thanks mate, I'm also looking at lead filling, instead of body filler. Been watching a few videos on Youtube. Have you ever tried that?

 

I agree most likely the head gasket is blown. That doesn't nesecarily mean it wont run and give you enough grunt to move it around. Would be worth trying even if just for shivs and giggles ????

 

 

 

For sure, we can give it a crack. I'll need to get a battery for it, perhaps some new fuel and hoses and see what happens .

 

Nice one Gav!

 

I think the lead cracking is a result of chasis flexing, You can fix it yourself if you're brave. Have a look for "Peach & Tomasini" dvd's, those guys are masters.

 

BTW. How come you can post so many pics in one reply? Lol

 

 

 

Yeah it's a common stress point on Zeds. Now I know what to ask for at Christmas lol...

 

I can post so many pics because they are not stored on the server. They are uploaded to Google Picasa (which is now Google+ Photos) and I just reference them from there.

 

If I get a chance this Christmas holiday I want to look into migrating the forum to another platform which might make it easier for everyone to do this.

 

Upper one was originally left as a 'blank' indentation from the factory, with no switch installed. It was reserved as the location for the Fog Lamp switch, should the owner choose to specify the extra-cost option fog lamp kit. Original and genuine fog lamp switches are SUPER rare. Looks like a previous owner installed a switch for something else there.

 

The lower one is usually the hazard flasher switch.

 

Thank you Alan as always full of interesting information. None of my Zeds have ever had working hazards and my 73 didn't even have a switch. I noticed also my 73 and this 70 both have the original rear glass which didn't have the defrosting elements in it like the US cars. So I'm not sure if the AU market cars had the hazard switches standard?

 

I've seen those optional fog lights before and switch on Yahoo! auctions. Pricey!