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gav240z

Safari Brown... I mean Gold - The NSW Project

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So I tried the WD40 in the bores left it 24 hours. About half a can I'd guess. But still no joy. I was reading on some rat rod forum people have used diesel fuel overnight in the bores to free it up. But then again they also said tomato juice and coca cola. I could no longer determine who was serious and who was being facicious.

 

I figure freeing it up now would make disassembly easier. Thoughts?

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Try brake fluid I used it on a motor bike engine that was really seized worked perfect you will see it if you google it others have used it with success I had it recommended to me and I didn't care about the motor any way but it worked spot on, thanks Michael.

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If you continue with trying to turn the motor over Gav, you will simply end up breaking a piston ring in the rust grove & score the bore further.

 

Pull it out & strip it down. Take photo's & report back here with what you find :)

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Watched an episode of classic car rescue where they boiled some vinigar in a kettle and poured that in the bores. Didnt work though. that mustang V8 was sitting without heads for a long time and bores had rusted.

 

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So finally an update where I've done something!  :-*

 

I have to say I'm quite pleased with the end result (it's drying after the 3rd coat in the garage right now) but although it's not perfect and it's not concourse perfect, I think you can agree it's better than what I started with..

 

As a reminder here was the worst of it.

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There were lots of little hairline cracks along the rear of it and sides etc..

 

Under the gear boot area it was cracked, so a bit of plastic weld and fiberglass reinforcement seems to have worked.

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And now the final product.

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The photos hide some of the minor imperfections, and I went too heavy on the first coat which caused some runs, which I had to sand out and start again with (grrrr) but I'll try and document what I did and what I advise to do differently in the center console renovation thread I posted to the link to above. Rather than go into it here.

 

I'm now thinking of tackling the dashboard with this paint, it looks great.

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Gav,

 

That looks brilliant. Definitely give the dash a go, what have you got to lose other than some time.

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Looks awesome. I'm curious to see what you used to paint it as i also need to do my console and dash.

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Ok so late night update, considering packing it in having a shower and going to bed. But if anyone is up, I thought I'd see for some advice re: engine stand.

 

So motor out.

 

IMG_20140222_231328.jpg

 

Hooray, thankfully only 1 bolt was a bit problematic near the starter motor and bell housing. I couldn't get a breaker bar onto it because of the angle and I only had the car on stands. A hoist would have been easier...

 

But thanks to 1 of the members on here who lent me their engine stand it made the job soooooo easy... Last time I did it with a winch attached to the centre beam of the garage roof and it was a bit more difficult. I did this on my own. Only had help from the g/f to remove the bonnet.

 

1 thing I'd never seen before was these gearbox braces on the underside of the gear box..

 

These photos somewhat suck..

 

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I've never seen these before on a Z, are they from a MQ Patrol set up?

 

Also note the second plug in the rear of sump? Not sure what that's for? Oil cooler return line? Again never seen that either...

 

Looks like cylinder #4 blew a gasket, see the orange colour in the exhaust port?

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As you can see Octopus Legs are left in engine bay. Along with gearbox.

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So my question is, do I need to remove clutch and flywheel to attach engine stand to the block?

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I'm guessing I'll need to remove them anyway to get the crank out? Will need to use something to jam the flywheel from moving when undoing the bolts yar?

 

And when I mount it, should I use the supplied bolts on the engine mount or the ones I removed from the gearbox bell housing? The ones on the stand seem to have more thread than the holes on the block, just don't want them to snap if they are not all the way in.

 

And just a shot to show the hand throttle and choke knobs at their new home.

IMG_20140222_233837.jpg

 

The hand throttle works also, I pulled it out and noticed it causes the accelerator to move to the floor a little bit. Pretty cool, but pretty dangerous lol..

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Those Alum. 'gussets' are std fitment to 280ZX's.

 

Remove the clutch & use some L series cylinder head bolts with appropriate bits of tube (to use as stand-offs) to attach the engine to the stand.

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Nice work Gav

 

Hope not only your, but the G/F's enthusiasm doesnt waiver.

 

Keep up the good work, somehow I think you will probably finish yours way before I do mine nevertheless.

 

Cheers

 

John

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Hi Gav

 

Well done on getting the motor out and even more so for getting the G/F to help.

+1 on bolts and tubes to secure to the stand, although I actually grabbed some in the exact size from the bolt supplier.

My usual assistant is our 8 year old daughter.

 

post-3930-144023743556_thumb.jpg

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That extra thing on the sump near the drain is the oil temp sensor from the 280ZX. Looks like your 240 inherited several bits from the 280ZX! If you can invest in an air compressor and air "rattle gun", it'll make the job of removing the flywheel bolts and other things soooo much easier.

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If you can invest in an air compressor and air "rattle gun", it'll make the job of removing the flywheel bolts and other things soooo much easier.

 

I have the compressor, rattle gun etc, happy to drop over and remove it for you.

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@Lurch - thanks for the info and tips. I'll probably have to wait until next week. Flying to San Francisco this week. So I'm going to leave the motor outside of the garage so I can park the RX-7 back in there and under cover.

 

@John - The g/f was almost asleep when I asked her to come out and handle the 'dirty' bonnet. She wasn't too impressed but she understands my enthusiasm. I too hope it doesn't waiver, but I have to say so far I'm really enjoying it. I'm not rushing things (for the most part) which helps a lot, having said that I'm trying to chip away at 1 job at a time to keep me motivated. I'm looking forward to tearing down this motor. I'm also thinking about using the LD28 crank, L14 rods and triple Mikuni's on this motor. I'm just not sure how much coin I want to invest in the engine head work yet. It's got an E31 head on it right, mounted on an F54 block. Will see if any work was done to it.

 

If I can find a P90 head I might start with that instead.

 

I'm sure I'll need your advice when it comes time to do the body work, I'm a total newbie. But willing to give it a go.

 

@Peter - Don't suppose anyone has a photo of what these tubes and bolts look like? I'm sure I'll figure it out. Thanks for the offer on the rattle gun compressor etc.. I have been thinking of investing in an air compressor and rattle gun anyway to remove the diff / rear suspension assembly etc.. I just don't know apart from CFM what to look for in an air compressor. You can get the cheap ones but something that will work for laying down primer and also for painting small things like badges etc..

 

@Dimitri - yeah looks like a 280zx engine block was fitted to it. Lindsay at Zshop said it was also fitted with a FS5C71C gearbox, I forget which gear box that is though? 240z / 260z or 280zx?

 

Rattle gun would be an awesome bit of kit to have, the amount of times I've had to use a long breaker bar to undo bolts on cars. Plus an air compressor will be helpful for painting, I'm not a huge fan of rattle cans.

 

 

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Gidday,

 

Re the tubes, anything will do, gal or copper waterpipe, even washers at a stretch. The idea is to fill any gap between the stand plate and the block that remains after the bolts are full in.

 

Compressor, can't comment on what you need  for painting as I only use mine for tools and an air blower. I just grabbed a cheap one from Supercrap auto (2.5HP 40L) and it has been fine. The only problem I have had is the short coiled airline in the kit didn't have the capacity  to deliver enough air to get the  rattle gun really cranking hard. Problem solved by getting a decent airhose. You will also need to get quick fittings as the Supercheap ones just come with BSP threads for the air fittings. One last thing it maybe worth getting a water trap for the airline so you don't blow little bits of moisture into either your tools or crevices in the car.

Once you start equipping workshop it can get very costly very quickly  :D

 

 

 

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I'm sure I'll need your advice when it comes time to do the body work, I'm a total newbie. But willing to give it a go.

 

 

Me smells a cheaper by the dozen workshop weekend happening somewhere on the North Shore of Sydney coming up LOL

 

As for the tubes, take a bolt, go down to Bunnings and look in the nuts and bolts section, you will find Dyna bolts with a solid tube on them which you can match to your bolts and use, may cost a few bucks each but will quickly solve your problem.

 

Cheers

 

John

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Compressor and rattle gun - no better way to strip threads.

 

Haven't you GenXs and GenYs ever heard of a socket set?

 

LMAO off Peter

 

We live in the "i......" era, everything is how do "i" get around this with minimum effort ?

 

 

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Compressor and rattle gun - no better way to strip threads.

 

Haven't you GenXs and GenYs ever heard of a socket set?

 

If used for loosening, no problems. I've got both and they are all well used. Especially when its time to undo that pesky top nyloc nut for the shocks; try undoing that @#$^er with just a ratchet.

If you manage to strip any sort of thread, clearly you are not supposed to hold any sort of tool...

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Compressor and rattle gun - no better way to strip threads.

 

Haven't you GenXs and GenYs ever heard of a socket set?

 

Hi Peter

 

Yep have heard of, and own a very well used socket set, sometimes the air tools just make it easier.

 

Similar to : I own a shovel, but the excavator made digging the hole for the septic faster and easier  ;)

 

 

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