KatoKid Posted September 24, 2017 Share Posted September 24, 2017 (edited) I quite like the contrast of the red cover in a Safari Gold car engine bay. I too am partial to this combination. Edited September 24, 2017 by KatoKid Ponyo240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted September 24, 2017 Author Administrators Share Posted September 24, 2017 I too am partial to this combination. Yeah I also really like black.... http://www.classiczcars.com/gallery/image/31837-s20-in-s30/?imageSize=medium And even the off-grey colour that Alan did here.... http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/236658-1969-nissan-s20-twin-cam-engine-rebuild-6.html But like I say this was a bit of a test to see how it turned out, I just realised I didn't apply any kind of primer to mine, not sure if that's a bit deal or not though? Might help make it more durable I suppose? So we shall see how it holds up and if need be maybe I'll strip it again and do another colour? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted September 30, 2017 Author Administrators Share Posted September 30, 2017 Just saw this and found it appropriate to attach here. From a video of a nice looking Safari Gold 240z in Dubai. HomeBuiltByJeff and KatoKid 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted October 5, 2017 Author Administrators Share Posted October 5, 2017 So a little while ago I posted an ad looking for a straight grille... not much chance of that these days... http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16524-very-straight-front-grille-slated-type/ So the old grille has broken legs and some bent slats, I managed to fix a few of them, but the rest were pretty crooked and as they are really thin metal it's almost impossible to beat them into shape again. Alan came to the rescue with some spares but finding a good set of slats that worked together was still hard, you'll notice the top 3 are the same length (long) and the bottom 3 (short). In the end I had to re-drill a set to get them to work correctly. So I spent ages marking and measuring the right place to cut these then discovered my scribe marks were not correct when compared with an original.. So I found it easier to put an original next to it and just cut in the same position and same angle. A hacksaw isn't the easies tool to use and I recently bought a dremel tool which with a cut off wheel probably would have been better, but hindsight and all that. I then riveted (had to buy a rivet gun but they are cheap at $25 for a kit). and after much mucking about... I had what appears to be a relatively straight grille again.. It has a couple of minor imperfections, which I may try and straighten out, but it's pretty good I think. (I'll have to test fit it also). Other update is I found a Nissan 2400 OHC cover at the right price. So just waiting on it to be posted out now! Even though my car didn't have 1 (technically just missed out) I still think it will look at home in an early 240z engine bay. Just gotta get the old black paint off and find out what's hidden under it. And the smallest update is I found an original rear speaker bracket and speaker (although it's not an hitachi speaker so not sure it's 100% original?) but if it isn't then it doesn't matter, but if I can find an original speaker I'll probably get the cone re-done. It's the small details. Ponyo240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted October 5, 2017 Author Administrators Share Posted October 5, 2017 So anyone want to point out a mistake I made on the grille. I realised after I posted it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted October 5, 2017 Share Posted October 5, 2017 No, mainly because I can't spot the mistake. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted October 5, 2017 Author Administrators Share Posted October 5, 2017 No, mainly because I can't spot the mistake. I'm missing 1 grille slat, the top 1. Have to pull it all apart again and redo it. *sigh*. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KatoKid Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Good job Gav, that's come up well gav240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottyD Posted October 6, 2017 Share Posted October 6, 2017 Hey Gav do you need any more spare grille parts ? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240Z-260Z-incomplete-grille-/142523040677?hash=item212f0903a5:g:~jUAAOSwurVZzw6o Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted October 6, 2017 Author Administrators Share Posted October 6, 2017 Thanks will keep an eye on that. But I found a good grille in the US of A for $100 USD just the cost of shipping it is a killer. Getting harder to find these undamaged! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jords Posted October 7, 2017 Share Posted October 7, 2017 Thanks will keep an eye on that. But I found a good grille in the US of A for $100 USD just the cost of shipping it is a killer. Getting harder to find these undamaged!Gav, how big would the package be? I’m in Vegas next week. gav240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted October 7, 2017 Author Administrators Share Posted October 7, 2017 Gav, how big would the package be? I’m in Vegas next week. Thanks mate, but it's already in the post. Turns out postage within the US was only marginally cheaper than to Sydney so it's getting sent direct here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted October 7, 2017 Author Administrators Share Posted October 7, 2017 What's that saying, if at first you don't succeed? Anyway finally put it back together correctly with the top slat in place. The brackets don't quite line up, not sure if it's the grille yet or the car. It's possible it may have been tweaked with the bonnet got nudged and so the brackets may be just out of alignment on the car. Anyway I'll figure that out a bit later. The main thing for now is that it looks relatively straight now and the new posts I made seem stronger than OEM which obviously break at the lower mounting points. Will need to sandblast it and paint it, but I'll probably try and do a few more minor adjustments to straight a few areas out. The spare slats helped but very few were actually perfect. George 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted March 21, 2018 Author Administrators Share Posted March 21, 2018 So I'm in the middle of my SU carb rebuild and want to get a few parts water jet blasted. I figured I'd get the 2400 OHC cover done at the same time, but it's been painted (ideally paint should be removed - since you're charged by the hour for the water blasting and paint can be difficult to get off through this process). So I've got paint stripper and as I did with my other BIG NISSAN cover I wanted to remove the inside baffle so that when it's cleaned all the crap under the baffle can also be cleaned up. Slight problem.. It looks like someone was here before, where as with my other Nissan cover I was able to use a heat gun to melt the adhesive that is put over the fasteners to prevent them working their way loose in a motor, someone has put some kind of solder on these.. That wouldn't be a problem, but the heat gun was not melting it at all, so I went to bunnings and got a Propane Torch, tried that, but again it won't melt... not sure what this solder material is, but I'm thinking the only options I have are to grind it off with a dremel tool or use an angle grinder to cut away the baffle plate and then cut off the screw heads (not so easy given size of angle grinder etc.. I obviously don't want to damage the Nissan 2400 OHC cover, given how rare they are.. Any suggestions? Ponyo240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 The baffle if riveted / peened in, ya gumboot.Grind the heads off, remove the baffle, then drill & re-tap to M4I have to do the same to the cover you have stored here. OdinZ, Ponyo240z and gav240z 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted March 21, 2018 Author Administrators Share Posted March 21, 2018 Must be an early cover thing... My later cover was different. I thought of asking you but wanted to try figure it out on my own lol.. OdinZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted March 24, 2018 Author Administrators Share Posted March 24, 2018 Well that was fun... Used paint stripper to remove the black paint. Next to waterblast. OdinZ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260z blues Posted March 25, 2018 Share Posted March 25, 2018 Great build thread. Awesome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted March 26, 2018 Author Administrators Share Posted March 26, 2018 Slowly making progress on rear slam panel. Ponyo240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 The baffle if riveted / peened in, ya gumboot. Grind the heads off, remove the baffle, then drill & re-tap to M4 I have to do the same to the cover you have stored here. And loctite those M4 suckers in ya gumboot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted March 26, 2018 Share Posted March 26, 2018 And loctite those M4 suckers in ya gumboot. NO! If the baffle ever has to come out, the tiny bolts won't be able to be undone. Bad idea. Stag joining paste should be used to seal the edges of the baffle, and also run over the heads of the bolts to keep them in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted March 26, 2018 Author Administrators Share Posted March 26, 2018 Stag joining paste should be used to seal the edges of the baffle, and also run over the heads of the bolts to keep them in place. Ahh so that's what that goop is called! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 NO! If the baffle ever has to come out, the tiny bolts won't be able to be undone. Bad idea. Stag joining paste should be used to seal the edges of the baffle, and also run over the heads of the bolts to keep them in place. Not the full strength loctite yah numpty, the removable one is made specifically for situations like this. Do people still use Stag, hmmmm, OK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C.A.R. Posted March 27, 2018 Share Posted March 27, 2018 Not the full strength loctite yah numpty, the removable one is made specifically for situations like this. You never said the low strength... and even then I wouldn't use it on a thread pitch of .6 /.8 Be clearer next time, Gandolf. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators gav240z Posted May 21, 2018 Author Administrators Share Posted May 21, 2018 Bit of Safari Gold to share with you lot.. Car is currently in Guam. Part of the original Z restoration program in the 90s. NB: Colour of the dashboard..has a greyish tint to it. I believe they used NOS parts where available in these. Sensational colour Ponyo240z 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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