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Vorn's 920 Gold 240Z


vorn70

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Awesome, nice to see that "yukky brown" colour back on it. ;).

thanks Gav each piece that gets done gives me a bigger smile.

I stripped the door the same way that I did the bonnet. The doors were in fairly good nick just some cracks and rust in the inner corners. I didn't take any pictures of the rust holes on the door , it was just a matter of welding and grinding back with a flapper disc, they came up good so I was happy to get them in undercoat to keep the surface rust off.

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  • 1 month later...
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I've got the same rust spot on the same side of my car.

 

With regard to the rust repair panel, what was the reason for just doing the patch repair? I was thinking of just cutting the bottom part of the fender off (where your paint line is in the photos) and just doing a butt weld along that line - joining the rust repair section to the rest of the fender. I guess what I am asking is, was there a specific reason for your approach?

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Hi Gav... The reason for doing it that way was to keep the lines for the wheel arch and the rear edge to door gap consistent. I have very limited skills so I went that way. I only removed what was rusted. Some of the more talented body guys on this forum would be the best to ask for advice as I just look at what they do and "try" to copy. But because of the way the skin folds on to the inner part of the guard I knew I would be unable to replicate this to a standard that I would be happy with.

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Thanks mossy. I can still remeber quite well seeing your car nearly ready for final paint when I was with Jeff picking up the 240 shell. We got the primer on and put on all the heat lamps that I had to bake it off. Even with the low shine primer I can see the areas that will need some work but it is good to have the whole car locked away now and I can put the welder away for awhile. Time to bog and sand.

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It's looking awesome mate, you're doing a killer job on it. Must be exciting getting so close to being finished now.

 

If you are going to lower the car at the front did you consider redrilling the lower control arm pivot holes in the cross-member to help minimise bumpsteer?

 

I knew this was a thing for Mustangs but not for Zed's. Is there a how to guide somewhere? Or something to show where the new holes should be drilled?

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I managed to fit all my new bushes and Koni strut inserts and fit it all up to the car without scratching my pride and Joy. I fitted up a disc and caliper just to see how it all looks. It should stop OK.

 

Looks great, did you go with koni yellows or reds?

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If you are going to lower the car at the front did you consider redrilling the lower control arm pivot holes in the cross-member to help minimise bumpsteer?

Sorry for the the late reply Peter I have been away. I have ordered a set of AZC Steering Knuckles which I hope will help reduce the bump steer and change the steering ratio. If I'm not happy with the result I will look into re-drilling the cross member. Thanks for the link showing the location and how to drill I think if I had known it was that  easy I might of tried that first.

Looks great, did you go with koni yellows or reds?

Thank Mossy & 77260Z  I am very happy with the car so far, it's no big dollar build, but a good solid shed build. I have fitted Koni Yellow with King springs, finger crossed it rides OK.

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Here is a couple of pictures with my 16X7 rims fitted, they clear the calipers OK. I got my brakes from AZC when the Aussie dollar was at it's all time high, so they have been sitting around awhile, and I have been itching to get them in the car. I did wait awhile to get them over here a a friend was getting a car shipped over so I was able to get a couple sets of brakes wheels and a rubber kit over here on the cheap  and Jeff (43) and I split the cost for our package with a few others bringing cars in. This saved a heap of money we just had to wait 6-7 months which was OK with us.

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