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PI - 9 and 10 November - Aust Supersprint Championship

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That part of PI has claimed many victims. Heard today a current model BMW 3 series that regularly does MSCA sprints was written off..coming on hard onto the straight and hitting that ripple strip then into the wall. For the sake of a few tenths, I'd rather keep my zed in one piece!

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Got a bit of a shock when checking the Zed's rear suspension and brakes today looking for the cause of an instability problem, found that a control arm bolt had lost it's nut and worked itself half way out of it's U bracket. Would have had some real fun if it had fallen right out.

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Every race meeting,

a prior full spanner check of every nut and bolt.

Carefull marking of where each tyre belongs on each side of car, wash and inspect rims, use soapy water to look for air bubbles from cracks to rims.

All exhaust nuts, bolts and gaskets, all engine ancilliary mounted items, intake and exhaust to head,

Throttle returns, both of them,

Fluids, referring to chart when last done, full replace if reqd.

 

It's called insurance, at 245 kmh, it is required.

If you dont do it, don't play.

 

It's called the 20cent part syndrome. Carroll Smith's books are very explicit about this.

 

And no, not directed at you, richard, but a recomendation for everybody, but then again, what would I know.

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Good solid advice from a pro! I have found a couple of strange things on my zed that I thought I'd never see but thankfully not life threatening but enough to give you a good scare. Caught early while it was on a hoist and rectified straight away. Got rid of an annoying vibration to boot!

 

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In this case the Zed had a wheel alignment done for PI, on checking the other side the eccentric camber bolt was loose there too.

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In this case the Zed had a wheel alignment done for PI, on checking the other side the eccentric camber bolt was loose there too.

Done by who?

So all we Qld'ers know where not to go!

 

May be a good idea to come up with some sort of welded on"L" tab with a threaded hole for some form of positive lock screw.

 

Also two dabs of paint paen, one on eccentric head and another on parent arm.

We did this with rally cars ( cheapskate types) that insisted on using eccentric camber pins on front end..

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I am sorting out a diff now for when I come over to the island. Im going 3.9. Buy what your car is doing I would say

3.9 will be spot on

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Yeah my light comes on at 85, could go to 9 if I wanted.

looking forward to coming over there.  Hopefully early next year

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Lovely wide spread on box ratios, nice low diff ratio, helps with good rpm drop to really use the "pull" on each upchange.

Less gearchanges per lap too.

Not a overly high top speed on the datalogger, but plenty of "get out of the corner" grunt

 

As opposed to a m/a engine, shuffling through gears, working out which diff ratio, not allowing too much rpm drop on upchanges,,,,,

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Yeah my light comes on at 85, could go to 9 if I wanted.

looking forward to coming over there.  Hopefully early next year

 

Just watch out for rouge Lamborghini's...

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Yeah my light comes on at 85, could go to 9 if I wanted.

looking forward to coming over there.  Hopefully early next year

 

If you have not been to PI before get as much practice as possible, apparently Fridays are sometimes available before a weekend's racing. Maybe I'm one of the few who has had problems learning how to go fast there but the more laps the better anyway.

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LOTS of timer to be made up... well... everywhere Richard.

 

Traffic was a bit of an issue though...

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Looking at getting a 'in your face' digital speedo, mainly for Bathurst and PI, to try and get respectable times. Turn 1 at PI for example, 180kph seems to be the go, a speedo just below the driving line of sight I reckon would gee me up to try 180. Jason has a point, racing in close company stirs you up which translates into faster lap times.

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On the LHS of yourr dash binnacle, the moving up and down lights,,,,, engine rpm/shift now ya sill bugga thing?

Using Peter Ogden's gear calc program, ( free download) print out the chart, once you enter the parameters.

Depending on which gear, you will know, based on rpm, your actual speed.

It's a periphery eyesight thing.

The last thing you will want is some big thing in your face, distracting you, as you look for the flick wide then tip in, into Caltex.

Gear it as you had it for PI, the top speed you should have hit ( i didn't notice your lights flickering!!!) under the start finish line bridge at PI, will be the same speed between second hump and Caltex chase tip in.

 

You go chading top speed, your ability to run up and over the Mountain will be crap, the exit of all bar the five deviations from Skyline to Forrest's, are all uphill exiting corners.

Forsake top end, for better corner exit.

 

Bah, what the eff would I know!

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