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MATTY

Another why wont this work question :(

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well that was a let down....

 

ive got no sparkm :: and obviously she wont fire, ive checked the plugs,checked the coil and im getting power. ive also swapped out the coil pack with my one of the 26 that i know that works and basically swapped out plugs and my leads. ive also check the earth strap. but still no dice. ive also checkive got the connections on my coil the right way round. apart form that im out of ideas....

 

i searched here but from what i can gather ive done what others have had done to chase the problem ive even check my manual on the 240/260z for the wiring and from what i can see its correct.

 

cheers

matty

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Another way of checking to know for sure it's sparking is to pull the spark plug out of the head, connect it to a lead and hold it against the head while you crank the motor over. Does it spark?

 

If it does, you should be good, double check your timing and fuel supply is correct because you only need spark, compression and fuel for it to kick over.

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Another way of checking to know for sure it's sparking is to pull the spark plug out of the head, connect it to a lead and hold it against the head while you crank the motor over. Does it spark?

 

If it does, you should be good, double check your timing and fuel supply is correct because you only need spark, compression and fuel for it to kick over.

 

yeh gave that too adam and still no dice so its got me stuffed why it wasnt. i though it might have been the coil pack i got with the motor so i swapped the old one back over and still no spark so its got be a bit baffled. i even got a mate to double check other wiring too from the hundreds of pictures documenting the swap but it all appears to be correct

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Have you checked if the coil is sparking? If its not but you have power to the coil check you have the two spade terminals correct on the dizzy. If these are swapped the coil won't fire

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OK.  I'm going to say it ..... is there a rotor button in the distributor?  Is there a points gap?  Are the contacts and posts in the distributor cap working/sprung/present?

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Have u checked for power at the coil? Is your ignition switch ok? Run a seperate 12 v to the coil and test again.

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Need more info. Coil pack - that's not standard! 2 spade terminals to dizzy, that's not normal!

 

Is this a carby or efi L engine?

Is it a points of electronic dizzy?

 

If points, pull lid off dizzy and check all the internals are good (rotor, gaps etc, as was mentioned). Check the points (I think from the points) to the condenser wire is good condition. Bypass all the cars wiring for now to test - just use jumper lead from battery + to coil +.

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Need more info. Coil pack - that's not standard! 2 spade terminals to dizzy, that's not normal!

 

Is this a carby or efi L engine?

Is it a points of electronic dizzy?

 

If points, pull lid off dizzy and check all the internals are good (rotor, gaps etc, as was mentioned). Check the points (I think from the points) to the condenser wire is good condition. Bypass all the cars wiring for now to test - just use jumper lead from battery + to coil +.

 

 

It would be an elec dizzy. these have two spade terminals on the black box on the side. When this is grounded it in turns tells the coil to fire

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Need more info. Coil pack - that's not standard! 2 spade terminals to dizzy, that's not normal!

 

Is this a carby or efi L engine?

Is it a points of electronic dizzy?

 

If points, pull lid off dizzy and check all the internals are good (rotor, gaps etc, as was mentioned). Check the points (I think from the points) to the condenser wire is good condition. Bypass all the cars wiring for now to test - just use jumper lead from battery + to coil +.

 

^^^ What engine is this?

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there seems to be a vacuum line of the dizzy thats missing and from what i can see on the last motor it was connected to my old carbie surely it doesnt matter cause last time on the old 26 it was disconnected?

 

butive check all the about and still no avail :(

 

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Are you running an L28E (electronic) distributor? Have you got the C and B terminals the right way? + power should go to the B and the C terminal should go to the - of the coil.

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Can you give us some photos Matty , so we got some idea of what we are dealing with . There would be a good chance someone close may have something you need to get it going or be able to pin point whats missing from the photos.

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as above... check if the coil is firing if it isnt you have the spade terminals around the wrong way. The coil should always have voltage (in on position) and only grounds when the dizzy tells it to.

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IMG_3643_zps984c0bec.jpg

yes i noticed that that i have a bare wire the plug came off after i pulled it off :P

 

IMG_3642_zps5939958c.jpg

theses wire are most likely in the wrong position as ive tried a few combinations just incase they were wrong to begin with.

 

Have you had a beer yet.... ;D

 

i had few last night, maybe thats my problem haha

 

or maybe ill just chalk it up to lack of sleep and just staring at it for too long, it appears now that im not getting a spark from the coil its self.

 

i sure it has to be something little

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Make sure the coil has 12V at the positive terminal. 12V should also go to the B Terminal and the ground goes directly from the c terminal to the negative terminal on the coil. As long as this is right the coil should fire.

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still nothing and i tried the same with both coils ive got here, worst case scenario ill just pay some one to sort it out here in town. most things i can usually get my head around but this one has me stumped.

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Assuming the two wires I see at the dizzy only go between there and the coil, that sure ain't going to work.

 

Without seeing the wires in person, this gets awkward, but anyway:

 

I assume you've noticed that the coil has a positive and negative marked on it.  On the positive terminal, you only have one wire, which should be the 12 volt feed from the car wiring.  If I had to guess though, I would say the wire that is currently connected there goes to the module on the dizzy, and is the old points wire recycled... How does the ignition module get its power feed?  As far as I can see, it doesn't.

 

And if I've correctly identified the wire on the positive of the coil in that photo, then the taped up wire with the blue terminal on the coil negative should be the 12 volt feed from the car.... (or a tacho wire, but I can't remember if zeds pick up the tacho from the coil or not...)

 

If the taped wire is indeed 12v, its on the wrong terminal...  Easiest way to fix: unbolt the terminals from the coil, and swap them over, leaving wires still attached.  This will leave you with two wires (taped wire and red wire) on the positive of the coil, and one on the negative.  Now connect the other end of the red wire to the terminal marked 'B' on the module - this gives you the power feed to the module.  The black wire now fitted to the negative of the coil needs to have it's other end attached to the 'C' terminal of the ignition module. 

 

This SHOULD work.  However, if it doesn't, check that your power feed to the coil is still supplying 12v when you're cranking it over - I presume that car used to have a ballast resistor, so chances are quite good that you may be using a wire that is powered with the key at ignition, but which goes dead with the key at start....  Which is why a number of the previous posts have told you to run a temporary direct feed straight from battery positive to coil positive.  IF you feed 12v straight from battery to coil positive, have terminal B on the module also connected to the coil positive, and you have terminal C on the module connected to the coil negative, and it still won't spark with your known good coil, either the pickup in the distributor or the module are stuffed.

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This SHOULD work.  However, if it doesn't, check that your power feed to the coil is still supplying 12v when you're cranking it over - I presume that car used to have a ballast resistor, so chances are quite good that you may be using a wire that is powered with the key at ignition, but which goes dead with the key at start....  Which is why a number of the previous posts have told you to run a temporary direct feed straight from battery positive to coil positive.  IF you feed 12v straight from battery to coil positive, have terminal B on the module also connected to the coil positive, and you have terminal C on the module connected to the coil negative, and it still won't spark with your known good coil, either the pickup in the distributor or the module are stuffed.

 

 

agree 100%

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I am not sure if I can help here Matty , but I do have a dizzy which looks the same as yours (came from a turbo 2.4 R30 skyline) and an old 260 dizzy with a number of coils hiding round the place. Your welcome to swap them around to see if they make any difference if you like.

Cheers

Aub

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still nothing from what we can work out ive gone back through connections and still nothing im thinking its either the module or dizzy. so at this stage when i can be bothered to pay some attention to the old girl ill leave it till then as unfortunely ive got other things that need to come before spending more time and money on her :/

 

thanks for all the input suggestion guys.

 

Cheers

Matty

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AND IS ALIVE !!!!!!

 

 

swapped over my old dizzy off the L26 plugged in a few wires and first turn she fired!! now ive just got to fine tune it and shes sweet! thanks for all the input again guess much appreciated :D

 

Cheers

Matty

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So it had nothing to do with the beer? That's weird.

 

in the beginning it might have been to many beers haha

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