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Bled Brakes... came back a few days later and no pedal at all??


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#21 benny

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 06:58 PM

ok.... thinking i will order another master and hope thats the issue!! appreciate your input lads!!

#22 benny

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 10:45 AM

have just ordered a new master so will see how we go!!

#23 PZG302

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Posted 19 August 2013 - 06:10 PM

Before you pay the moneys take the time to bleed the brakes again. If air was getting in the system through the distribution block then good chance this is the problem. The front brakes need to move a heap more fluid volume than the rears, and it doesn't take much of an air gap to move the pedal a long way and have it at the floor.

Easiest way to bleed all brakes if you have the time and can get the car up in the air on stands is the good old gravity bleed.

Attach plastic hose over all teh bleed nipples, crack all so that they can now flow, take the top off the reservoir, and keep an eye on it over half an hour or so, also checking the fluid coming out of the brakes. You may need to tap the end of the tube on each nipple to get a suction effect going to get the fluid flowing out. This way doesn't give you dramas with pumping the pedal with not enough fluid in the system and gets all the air out of the system, and also gives you time to enjoy a beer or two.

#24 Wayne G

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 12:01 PM

"I should also note im able to pump up the pedal when car is off then once started the pedal sinks..... from what I've ready its most likely the master?? maybe still air in the lines?? i didnt rebleed the front today?"

This could be normal.  The pedal will become hard and with minimal travel when there is no boost from the vacuum brake booster and then change feel when there is boost from the booster, when you start the engine.  A fault is indicated if the pedal sinks after it has been pumped up with the engine still switched off.

#25 benny

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 01:56 PM

Thanks Wayne.... The pedal stays solid after being pumped up with vehicle turned off.

#26 PZG302

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 07:03 PM

If you haven't yet, bleed the front brakes, odds on this is your problem because of the weeping block letting air into the system. It doesn't take much.

Any time you do something to the brakes check the obvious first. Make sure everything is tight and doesn't leak. Then bleed all the brakes. And if you still have problems then you look for other faults.


#27 benny

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Posted 20 August 2013 - 07:12 PM

If you haven't yet, bleed the front brakes, odds on this is your problem because of the weeping block letting air into the system. It doesn't take much.

Any time you do something to the brakes check the obvious first. Make sure everything is tight and doesn't leak. Then bleed all the brakes. And if you still have problems then you look for other faults.



will definitely give this a go as soon as i have time!!



#28 benny

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 06:38 PM

and its fixed!! was a combination of things.


1. "New Master" was leaking internally


2. Previous workshop had mixed lines up on firewall meaning that the front circuit was operating 1 front calliper and the two rear and the rear circuit was powering one drivers calliper, simply swapped these back.


3. I Failed to check that the front callipers were on the correct side (they were upside down) so they were full of air. I also moved the rear callipers around while bleeding.


4. I built my own pressure bleeder... so worth it cost about $30 to build and makes it a true one man job. I will put together a post about this later.


So relieved this is now solved!!

#29 nizm0zed

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 08:18 PM

excellent news!!
Always good when you get to the bottom of a problem.

#30 Riceburner

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Posted 06 September 2013 - 09:48 PM

Nice one Ben, had me stumped for sure. Look forward to the "build your own pressure bleeder" thread, it'll be very handy for many people here including me.

#31 Lurch ™

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 07:42 AM

Nice one Ben, had me stumped for sure. Look forward to the "build your own pressure bleeder" thread, it'll be very handy for many people here including me.


THIS! ^

Tutorial or BAN!

#32 dat2kman

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Posted 07 September 2013 - 09:04 AM

One of my cars has a set of tyre valve fittings attached to the screw on lids on the master cylinders, it runs balance bar, so two cylinders, two caps, two threaded tyre inflating valves.
There is a hydraulic handbrake in rear line,

By using a bicycle pump, i can put approx 3psi, ie one pump, into the half filled large master reservior.
When i crack the bleed nipples, fluid comes fair shooting out.

There is no need to have anyone sitting in car pumping pedal X3, hold, crack/bleed, ,,, repeat etc.

#33 bryan3976

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Posted 11 January 2015 - 04:46 PM

im having the exactly the same issue my master was rebuilt aswell. thanks for this will try the  things listed out hopefully it works


#34 red76z

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 10:14 PM

I just spent 2 hours to get a good peddle with the rear working but the front didn't want to play the game. I eventually got under the dash and removed the peddle bump stop allowing the peddle to move back a couple of millimetres and this instantly got the air and sponge feeling out of the system.  This causes the piston inside the master cylinder to get the full stroke and pass any galleries inside the master. Try this trick on your next brake bleeding mission.

#35 dat2kman

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Posted 09 March 2015 - 10:35 PM

I just spent 2 hours to get a good peddle with the rear working but the front didn't want to play the game. I eventually got under the dash and removed the peddle bump stop allowing the peddle to move back a couple of millimetres and this instantly got the air and sponge feeling out of the system.  This causes the piston inside the master cylinder to get the full stroke and pass any galleries inside the master. Try this trick on your next brake bleeding mission.

Your pedal adjuster rod was incorrectly adjusted, not allowing full piston retraction.




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