Tripz 1977 260z 2+2
Posted 10 August 2015 - 11:20 AM
Found a lot more old repairs and the drivers side rear quarter was replaced at one point of time but still had plenty of filler in it as you can see from the photos. This car was restored in the mid 90's from what I was informed (I do have plenty of receipts with it) and the outside I have no doubt was taken back to metal as there is no signs on the outside of the car of the original yellow except in 1 or minor dents I have found where they didn't get it back to metal before adding filler. I made the mistake that with the information about it being restored in the mid 90's and with how clean it looked (was only 1 or 2 rust bubbles and a crease in the door where it was opened onto something) that panel work was going to be a breeze. This just goes to show how important it is to take a car back to metal as it also helps paint a picture on the kind of history it has had as well and even though I am finding all these old repairs and filler I am actually happy about it because it gives me a better sense on the life of the car.
Getting rear quarters back to metal:
Old repairs found under all the filler and new repairs to be made:
Strut tower small rust repair:
Posted 08 November 2015 - 07:34 AM
Alright well it looks like it has been a little while since I updated in here as I prefer to wait until I can put some decent updates in rather than just little bits and pieces I post on Facebook. The body work is slowly coming along now, have just little bits of paint on the outside of the car to clean up with a wire wheel and then I can start on the underside (hence looking for a rotisserie). Speaking of the body work I am at that point where I can't wait to start dummy fitting the body panels as a lot of the parts for the body have now turned up which I will provide photos later. I am in 2 minds at the moment though as I will be ordering that Datsun Comp Scoop from MSA for the bonnet but I don't know if I want to run it on an early bonnet (mine one here needs some work) or put it on the late model bonnet that came with car with the vents in it as well. For some reason I don't mind cutting up the non vented bonnet but don't want to cut up the vented one so I might have to take a vote at some point.
Alright lets get started on the pictures because lets be honest car builds are like playboy, the pictures are what you want to see.
The engine bay is getting close, It has been a huge fight trying to get it done as it has been 3 working days on it just due to issues. First time through with the paint stripper it was fine and things were moving smoothly so only had some areas to clean up that didn't want to strip so planned to hit it with the media blaster. The media blaster managed to get moisture in the sand so had to be cleaned out as it was just clogging so instead of waiting on it to dry out I just ran down and got one of those little blasters with the 500ml hopper on it. It worked fine for some areas but the problem was with such a small hopper you would be refilling it every 2 mins so it just became a pain in the ass. 3rd day i was over it and saw the wire wheel sitting there so got stuck into with that and why the hell didn't I think of it sooner. A wire wheel is now my best friend.
The passenger dog leg repairs are still a work in progress. Have cut the rust out and dummy fitted Mark's (Scoota) repair panel and its a really good fit. Will get some more updates once its all cleaned up and installed. I didn't have any metal floating around for the inner dog leg so thats why it didn't get finish but have metal now.
My parts order from Bardan (ImportMonky) turned up as well which is part of the reason I can't wait to get into dummy fit before paint.
Nardi Classic Wood wheel. Unsure if this will make it into car now or if I will stick with original wood wheel. I am thinking the car might turn into a street/sometimes track car so we will see.
3" exhaust, Again unknown brand as it mates with the headers but the exhaust will be staying just needs some repairs.
As you can see from the photos there is the Gnose that came off Oscar, Gnose hinges, Some tail light surrounds for the 260z and 2 sets of dog leg repair panels (testing which fit better).
I purchased a 1964 Datsun 320 truck as a project for the wife a few months back (haven't made much progress yet) but with the arrival of the Aritaspeed kit I had to test fit it on something seeing as though the zed is in my brothers garage.
Well thats the update for now.
Edited by Triptych, 08 November 2015 - 07:36 AM.
Posted 08 November 2015 - 08:30 AM
Posted 10 November 2015 - 10:13 PM
I'm enjoying your build man, mostly because its a near splitting image of my 2+2 build with rust in all the same sections haha!
Do you have much rust in the nose where the bonnet hinge is? mine was all rotten there, Mark made me up all those nose bits too.
Posted 11 November 2015 - 06:31 AM
Most of the rust seems to be the dog legs and around the lower rear quarters that I have found so far.
Marks helped me a lot with this build and not just with parts but with passing on knowledge when I have been stuck. I will search for your build thread when I get home from work to see how yours is coming along.
Posted 11 September 2016 - 12:22 PM
Alright guys there has been a major gap in my updates here but I still update the Facebook page more often but now the car is having a rest in the build process I thought I should run some updates here. Alright quite a bit has happened in this time so I will split this up over 2 posts which will be the "parts turning up post" and the "work completed" posts.
Well this is going to be the parts turning up post so lets get to it with some pictures.
First things first we had to replace all the suspension bushes in the car. Sadly they screwed up with 1 bush by providing 2 uppers and not an upper and lower but that was solved with some help from Mark (Scoota).
Alright here is the ITB setup. Im not too happy with the manifold so that will be getting a redesign and rebuilt when it comes time to doing the turbo manifold as well so they will both be same thickness flanges and such to make install a lot easier. Also there is EMS pro ECU in there as well which more than likely will end up going after I speak to my tuner to see what he would prefer we run but that is still a while down the line. There is also some modifications to the air box that Jason informed I should carry out as well to help equalise the pressure within the chamber so that will be done down the track to.
I will put up the car upgrade post later tonight.
- Scoota G likes this
Posted 12 September 2016 - 08:29 AM
Alright guys as some of you may know there was a mad rush to get my car rolling again to get her home as where she was getting built she could no longer stay there. My brother and I only had a month to get her rolling and back to my place so this is what got done. The build will now be taken over by myself and whoever I can get to help me including friends and any forum members if they are willing.
Went with lowered 260z king springs front and rear plus the 2 seater front strut tops to help get it her lower. The trailer we used to bring her home didn't like this setup even with no weight so will need to keep that in mind for the future.
The DIY Rotisserie was used for a lot of the build. Came in handy for apply to body deadener under the car and such and doing a few little repairs. Also really helped for working on the doglegs.
Did some trial fitting of the ITB on the P90. This inspired me to redesign the manifold for the ITB and also build a turbo manifold as its just going to be a headache to make the 2 manifolds work. I used some extractors I sold to another forum member for this mock up as they were the only ones that cleared the ITB manifold.
Just sat the Gnose and Arita kit on there (have the front spoiler to but tape didn't hold it) just to see how it all looked together, yes I am going for the worlds longest car with Gnose on a +2 but hoping with wideness of the aritaspeed flairs it should help make it look shorter. Also this 3 piece rear spoiler will end up being the death of me by the looks of it as it appears its going to be an absolute pain to fit which I have heard from at least 2 other people they had or are having a hard time with their ones as well.
Edited by Triptych, 12 September 2016 - 08:45 AM.
Posted 12 September 2016 - 10:44 PM
Awesome to see an update with your car mate! I know the feeling of being in a rush, my car might be out in the elements for a month or two soon, so i'm rushing to get the rust repairs finished.
Are those shorter 240z strut tops for the back end of the car?
Posted 12 September 2016 - 11:59 PM
Posted 21 September 2016 - 07:12 AM
How far do the gaurds from the Arita kit stick out from the body?!
- Triptych likes this
Posted 21 September 2016 - 06:46 PM
Posted 21 September 2016 - 07:27 PM
I will put the arita kit back on over the weekend and get some measurements. In regards to wheels that I am running I decided against 15x10 on the front but just waiting on my Work CR01's to arrive from Japan (Ordered through the always trustworthy Import Monky: http://www.importmonky.com) in the following specs 15x9 -41 and 15x10 -53 in the T-Disc (big brake clearance).
Posted 29 September 2016 - 04:21 PM
How far do the gaurds from the Arita kit stick out from the body?!
Hey Neuby, I got to do some more work on the car today so got some better holding tape so I could sit the flairs on both front and rear and get a rough measurement to see how Works CR01s will go when they arrive from Japan. All measurements are taken from the original lip face to the flair lip at roughly top centre of the arch giving me around 5.5cm extra in the front and 9.5cm extra in the rear.
Here is some pictures.
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