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Rudolfs 2+2: Update: 26/10/17: Video Update 5!


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#121 CroS13

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Posted 10 October 2015 - 07:43 PM

UPDATE 10.10.15 - Rear quarter done, suspension painted

 

Ive been quiet lately on here, but rest assured progress hasn't halted, quite a bit has been achieved!

I started by shaving the antenna hole in the back, and while i was at it, i also filled the holes drilled into the door to mount the original mirrors. They had been filled with expanding foam and bogged over, and had cracked through the paint.

 

1%20antenna_zpsfvoj5a8h.jpg

 

2%20door_zps8tf6qiea.jpg

 

 

next step was to drop all the suspension so i could tackle the rust repair in the rear end. so that was accomplished:

 

3rear1_zps8ajrrf6c.jpg

 

Then was the task to tackle the rust in the passenger rear end, it was pretty much the same story as before, id need to fix the bottom edge, the inner skin was rusted and would need to be re made, and the hole for the 5mph impact bar would need to be filled:

 

4%20rear2_zpslur2fm2g.jpg

 

5%20rear3_zpsfbltez5f.jpg

 

and once again some post production editing later, it was complete!!

6rear4_zpsl3zjg0z3.jpg

 

once again making the inner skin was a pain i don't want to re experience! note this time round i added some more drainage to the bottom:

7rear5_zps3ppfnbv3.jpg

 

 

 

I really need to invest in a sand blasting cabinet, because this was  a long, painful day. To be honest i wish i just paid someone to do it, what a pain cleaning all the components with a wire wheel

 

8%20the%20rear%20painted%20parts1_zpsysh

 

 

Took the bits and pieces from the rear end to work and had the painter hit them with some 2k black.

Some people might ask why no powder coating? to be honest, Im not a fan of it, we have our BT Forklifts powder coated from factory, sure its a more durable paint process, but once you get a single chip in it, water gets in, surface rusts the metal from under the paint, and the powder coating just peels off with you fingers in big strips. Hell look at what happened to the TVR's after a few years, the space frame chassis in them just rusted from the inside out. There was a great wheeler dealers episode showing it!

 

Also note the Stewart Wilkins front diff mount:

 

9%20the%20rear%20painted%20parts2_zpsnxo

 

more bits and pieces trickling in, it feels great to be buying refurb parts, feels like im making progress!

10%20misc%20parts_zpsht4u4phy.jpg

 

Oh and if you didn't notice already i also got it on the rotisserie!

 

11%20rot_zpskvstsbp9.jpg

 

And don't worry Pete, not ignoring the missus, i usually attack it before she gets home from work, or early mornings on a weekend when she is still asleep ha!

Rudi

 

 


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#122 CBR Jeff

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Posted 11 October 2015 - 04:00 AM

Looking good Rudi.
Lots happening at your house.
Jeff

Edited by CBR Jeff, 11 October 2015 - 04:00 AM.


#123 AK

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Posted 11 October 2015 - 07:04 AM

Hi Rudi

Very inspirational build - I have the same car - pretty much the same condition but had a sliding sunroof fitted to it which I hope to delete with slump molded 8mm Acrylic panel that will be silicone and bolted permanently in place , I have started a full pull down rebuild resto as well. Thanks for taking the time to share you build really appreciated!!! 

I like the stock blue colour and the longer you have it the more you like I find, I think I will be keeping mine blue and I would stay with blue engine bay as well over the grey - grey reminds me of old holden for some reason - just my 10 cents . You have done the hard miles with this one whatever colour you want I am sure it will look pretty good . Anyway just shout out to ya - and thank you for sharing your build - Awesome work!

Cheers AK



#124 CroS13

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 09:35 PM

Hi Rudi

Very inspirational build - I have the same car - pretty much the same condition but had a sliding sunroof fitted to it which I hope to delete with slump molded 8mm Acrylic panel that will be silicone and bolted permanently in place.

 

I like the stock blue colour and the longer you have it the more you like I find, I think I will be keeping mine blue and I would stay with blue engine bay as well over the grey - grey reminds me of old holden for some reason - just my 10 cents . You have done the hard miles with this one whatever colour you want I am sure it will look pretty good . Anyway just shout out to ya - and thank you for sharing your build - Awesome work!

Cheers AK

 

Hey thanks man, its everyone else that keeps ME motivated to keep at it, everyone's builds that give me inspiration to get off the computer, get out their and get on with it!

Not sure if i can picture this acrylic panel roof, Do you still want a sunroof? or is this idea just the "easier way out" of replacing a whole turret, or welding a new sheet into the roof hole, because to me, silicone in the roof just sounds like a recipe for disaster, and a great place to trap water and encourage rust. Before i bought my car, i looked at another zed, it was listed without a sunroof, when i get there, it had been shut, all the wiring and motors removed, they had simply run sikaflex around the gap and filled it in, and bogged over that, then sprayed the roof. It was done ages ago and the whole roof around the edges of the sunroof was rusting and bubbling up.

Another idea that Ben from Otomoto did, was he cut out the roof and made a carbon fiber roof skin that he glued in i believe. Looked really good. I think if you are going to the effort of a full rebuild, bite the bullet and do it right the first time, even if you have to pay for it.

And don't worry im painting the engine bay body colour, not sure of colour yet, but it wont be blue!

Rudi
 



#125 red76z

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Posted 14 October 2015 - 10:31 PM

Nice work mate. It may look like the never ending project but it will be all worth it in the end. Keep up with the good work and enjoy the build.

#126 PB260Z

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 11:38 AM

Nice work Rudi coming along very well.

Making me feel a bit guilty for not doing much on mine for the last few weeks.

#127 gav240z

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Posted 17 October 2015 - 01:21 PM

You make me wish I had my own place, I'm worried if I strip my Z down too far I'll get evicted from my rental and stuck with a half stripped S30z. Anyway good work so far, motivates me to get stuck back into mine. For various reasons I haven't got much done on mine lately.



#128 AK

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 05:41 AM

Hi Rudi

If you are anything like me the amount of time I have spent thinking about sunroof option is boraderline certifiable but in any case I in some ways I do want to keep a fixed sunroof and others I would like it gone completely it certainly a little bit of easy fix to shape some 8mm acrylic to fit the roof shape although I looking at some specialist help to do this as you need a large oven Pizza Oven size to get it heated to right temperature to shape. I think you can certainly get a acrylic roof in place with no water ingress if done correctly. The botched patch up job you speak of is most likely a different scenario where they had patched up existing hole and with gap filler between the sliding metal roof and the fixed roof . Significant rust would of been around the edges and the roof and you would not get a not got track of seal and the seal from the glue/silicon would be done on rusting surface all not going work long term. Fish tanks stay together and hold water for years with no problem - anyway I think it can work and your right if not done right it could be a disaster and then I would be kicking myself that I did not get a blank welded in, of a whole new roof skin, or doing Carbon roof as Ben did from Otomoto which looked super cool and really trick I will revisit that build again by I do struggle with how he got the roof to seamless blend to the existing metal body.

 

I have got my Drivers door off at the moment full disassembly and clean it out get the rust out POR - 15 treatment - re-lube everthing, get the rust of the widow mechanisms' POR 15 treatment, weld up the mirror holes going for the fender mounts, my stainless steel frame was cracked halfway through where it went into the door on the lock side, took this to a stainless steel fabricator specialist who specialized in industrial kitchens who welded the crack up and put a 1mm plate on it.

 

Already done the full reco on the passenger door came up perfect - love a good set of doors on a classic car nice and solid and working perfect - if let go much further another year or 2 they would of been cactus jack.

 

In regards to colour I starting think I may change to candy orange with a Gold metallic fleck - pretty in your face but not seen that often

 

Thanks for the perspective on my build - keep up the good work buddy. Cheers AK Don't worry I still considering options for the sunroof delete.



#129 Lurch ™

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Posted 22 October 2015 - 06:30 AM

Looking good Rudi :)



#130 CroS13

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 10:39 AM

UPDATE 20/1/16: ENGINE BAY PROGRESS

 

So i have been slowly chipping away at the engine bay, and was not really looking forward to tackling the battery box area, so i started by removing the mount for the charcoal canister, because that got tossed over the shoulder!

 

enginebay1_zpsrrl9vsow.jpg

 

enginebay2_zps0sjhp4qn.jpg


Once that was done, it was time to get stuck into the battery box, it looked "reasonable" at first glance, but it kept bugging me. so i broke out the spot weld drill and got to work, which once removed and hit with a wire wheel, showed the extent of the damage, which left me with paper thin pitted metal:

z%20battery%20tray_zpsjovlcnuq.jpg

 

So i cut, and cut and cut.... but kept running into rusty, pitted metal..... once it was all removed i was left with quite the sorry sight:

z%20battery%20tray2_zps5fe1rgnb.jpg

 

 

 

And hence why its been a while since my last update, this would be quite a complex panel to make, with multiple curves in many directions, it would be my biggest test yet!

So to start, i had to patch the hole in the firewall, where the rust had eaten away at the join:

z%20battery%20tray3_zpscnrmuu9u.jpg

 

 

Next was to drop down a plate vertically, as i had removed quite a bit of metal during my exploration with the wire wheel:

 

z%20battery%20tray4_zpsiqgtbuvr.jpg

 

 

and now my 300mm sheet metal roller really started paying for itself, glad i bought it after all:

z%20battery%20tray5_zpsj1tclj0l.jpg

 

 

a couple of relief cuts later, and we were getting close. I had welded to the firewall from the underside, you can see a little penetration, but overall im happy with the result as its alot neater:

z%20battery%20tray7_zps1mckfvlh.jpg

 

 

And yesterday i managed to finish it off!

z%20battery%20tray8_zpsdpkdp8pc.jpg

 

 

from the underside:

z%20battery%20tray9_zpsnu9jbztp.jpg

 

 

unfortunately....in my haste to GTFO of the garage yesterday, i reefed open the garage roller door while standing at some stupid angle, and i threw my back out.... I am now in quite a fair bit of pain, on pain killers and have been given the rest of the week off work. So ill probably be out of action for a week or two.... happy days......


Rudi.


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#131 gav240z

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 11:03 AM

Sorry to hear about your back mate, but that is some really good work on the battery box area. What roller did you buy? I think I should get 1 also for complex curves.



#132 PB260Z

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Posted 20 January 2016 - 08:20 PM

Hi Rudi

Sorry to hear about your back. Back injuries can be real bad news.
Nice to see some more progress on your car.

Once mine is registered I will have to come for run out to your place and have a closer look.

Rest up and get your back sorted.


Cheers

PB

#133 PB260Z

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Posted 31 January 2016 - 06:11 PM

Hi,

Dropped into Rudi's today and must say that the car is looking good, very good. You have done some great work, reading this thread you don't really get a true impression as to how good it is looking.

Also, first time I have seen a resto that didn't need work on the slam panel.

Cheers

PB

#134 XYZ

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 02:35 PM

What great looking work - really like the sleek black look of your suspension. Seriously wish I had but 1% of the talent and patience most of you guys seems to have.



#135 Lurch ™

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Posted 03 February 2016 - 07:19 PM

Seriously wish I had but 1% of the talent and patience most of you guys seems to have.

 

It's actually called Beer.


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#136 CroS13

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Posted 04 February 2016 - 03:30 PM

 What roller did you buy? I think I should get 1 also for complex curves.

 

http://www.machineryhouse.com.au/S267

There is a Hare and forbes in North Parramatta, Its like being a kid in a candy store, except the candy you want costs hundreds of thousands of dollars, and you don't have a jar big enough to fit it all in!

 

Hi,

Dropped into Rudi's today and must say that the car is looking good, very good. You have done some great work, reading this thread you don't really get a true impression as to how good it is looking.

Also, first time I have seen a resto that didn't need work on the slam panel.

Cheers

PB

 

Thanks for the kind words Pete, its everyone Else's support, and their builds that keep me chugging along with mine. Great to see your Car in person and on the road, it looks a million bucks.

 

What great looking work - really like the sleek black look of your suspension. Seriously wish I had but 1% of the talent and patience most of you guys seems to have.

 

The talent you learn as you go mate, I'm no fabricator, the only other time i had done any welding was a 1 week module at tafe in the first year of my apprenticeship over 10 years ago. Couldn't weld for shit before i bought my car, just invest in PROPER tools, a quality welder, some gas, and practice practice practice. Watch some YouTube video's, read some tutorials on how to set up the welder and have a go.

I went to the local metal distributors and bought $50 worth off 0.9mm off cuts, Zinalume, cold rolled, a bit of everything, and i practiced and practiced and learned the welder for about 2 hours every day after work for a week, before i even attempted to do something on my car. And when it came around to doing work on the car, i started in a area you wont see, so if i cocked it up, no harm done.

As for the patience.... trust me.... this car has tested my patience on more than one occasion, i just close the roller door, and like Locky said, go inside, sit on the computer, crack a beer and unwind. Plenty of tears were had so far, and plenty more im sure.

Rudi


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#137 mspecr

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Posted 10 March 2016 - 09:23 PM

Just had a read, great work dude keep it up ! I'm going to borrow your idea for the battery tray area soon :)



#138 CroS13

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 12:25 PM

Update 16.4.16 - Fuel filler hole finished, floor done


Got abit done over the last 2 months. Firstly, big shout out to Locky, He made me the fuel filler panel, and it wasn't 100%, I messaged him and he told me to send it back down to him with my fuel flap, and he had it fixed and back to me within the week.

So firstly i finished of in the engine bay, i had rust under the windscreen washer bottle, so that was fixed up:

DSC_1422_zps7heolodi.jpg

 

 

I had a few holes in the floor that needed to be fixed too:

DSC_1436_zpsavcfxyfo.jpg

 

 

DSC_1438_zpsrqkjtwxl.jpg

 

 

And finally i had to tackle the fuel door area. from the outside it didn't look as bad as it actually was:

DSC_1466_zps4qrqlsba.jpg

 

 

but it was very rusty from the inside, and by the time i had cut out all the cancer, i was left with a decent sized hole. I got a tip from a mate who is a body man and restorer, he said where possible, cut circles or ovals for your replacement sections. as if you cut a square, the panel will want to distort when you come to the corners. so i took his advice and cut a ovalish shape:

DSC_1488_zpsfivtunsy.jpg

 

 

 

was quite a few days trimming the hole to line up with my patch, but i started stitching it in:

DSC_1500_zpsp7cakoxm.jpg

 

 

 

And the finished product. It has sunk in and pulled in the pannel along the bottom edge the most, and i went really really slow, but its nothing a bit of bog cant fix:

DSC_1515_zpsbifnpe27.jpg

 

 

Next up on the list is to clean up my filler neck box, and weld that back in place. I might have to cut off the mounting flange on it, and re make that section, so it will be a bit of stuffing around.

After that, fix the small amount of rust in the bottom of the rear hatch where the glass sits, and then, probably the hardest task of them all. 

I have some rust in the inside of the cavity of the roof where the hinges fold into. I know this is a problem area, because Pete mentioned his was the same, and i think you said Locky just treated that area with rust kill? If i attempt to fix it, i will probably try from underneath. So un stitch the inner panel that the interior done light bolts to, then cut out the offending areas from the back, so i dont disturb the roof.

But i might hit it with a wire wheel first and see how bad it actually is.

Apart from that, thats all the rust fixed, then off to sandblasting!

Rudi


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#139 PB260Z

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Posted 16 April 2016 - 05:55 PM

Hi Rudi

Yes my bus had a few signs of minor surface rust in the back of the roof that were visible through the hinge aperture.
Lockie and I discussed this and I elected to treat it rather than pull the entire roof apart. Not the perfect solution, but the most appropriate for what I was intending with my car.

Cheers

PB

#140 Brabham

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Posted 17 April 2016 - 09:07 AM

Good work Rudi, do you use an air gun to cool the panel while welding, I have found this helps. My bus has the same problem with rust in the hatch hinge area, and I was planning to unstitch the panel from the underside, so will be interested to see how you go with that area. Try to take a few pics of it when you do that area for reference.

Cheers




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