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One of Six_Shooter's Time Vampire and Money Pits. v.240


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Well, I pulled the tranny out and apart to confirm that it is what I thought has been a problem for a couple years now. The 1-2 shift fork is broken, where it wraps around the shift shaft. Either need new parts to fix it, or a new tranny.

 

I'm leaning towards new tranny, or at least a hybrid assembly using an S14 tranny as the donor. I would have liked to wait until the winter to do it though.  :-\

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  • 2 months later...
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Just to update, I ended up picking up a 4 speed tranny and swapping the cast iron shift forks into my 5 speed. I had to drill the holes for the roll pins a bit larger, to use the 5 speed roll pins, since they seemed to change size at some point.

 

This tranny has never shifted so smooth.

 

I just wish I had kept one of the 4 speeds I had long ago, so that I didn't need to buy another one. lol

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  • 5 months later...

An update:

 

I got a Momo wheel and adapter with a parts car a few months ago, the wheel was pretty trashed, and too small in diameter for my like anyway, but the adapter was worth keeping, so I decided to find a different Momo wheel, and found a shift knob from the same guy. I paid too much for them, but they feel nice while driving.

I swapped my steering wheel and shift knob for Momo items:

 

Stock wheel:

75235_10151737714355051_651865050_24298339_1785733634_n.jpg

 

Momo wheel:

540218_10151737715105051_651865050_24298344_1160749798_n.jpg

 

Momo shift knob:

582456_10151737715425051_651865050_24298345_2116059149_n.jpg

 

Both together:

538200_10151737715725051_651865050_24298347_1813539557_n.jpg

 

The wheel that came with my parts car, I really wish it was in better shape, and slightly larger in diameter:

534451_10151737714805051_651865050_24298342_892196904_n.jpg

 

I swapped in some 260Z belts as well.

 

I did have to make a hybrid of the 260Z and the 240Z belts to fit them to the car without any cutting or welding.

 

I swapped the lower retractor mechanism from the 240 belt in place of the 260 retractor. I had to disassemble the mechanisms, down to the basic components, and then wind the new belt on to the mechanisms.

 

260Z belt on left, hybrid on right.

537719_10151737765830051_651865050_24298510_1517001203_n.jpg

 

Close up of the lower brackets.

552775_10151737766160051_651865050_24298511_1727437643_n.jpg

 

521470_10151737766590051_651865050_24298515_1114078140_n.jpg

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  • 4 weeks later...

I've had a boost control problem for a little bit.... again.... arg!

 

So I decided to install the additional wastegate springs a little more elegantly. I bought a package of new springs and made an additional arm to mount to the wastegate lever.

 

Original install, I started removing them before I took the picture:

598470_10151832118875051_1880808609_n.jpg

 

Arm:

556127_10151832117645051_1577479857_n.jpg

 

182296_10151832117775051_1559995865_n.jpg

 

Test fitting:

246441_10151832119175051_824245512_n.jpg

 

I decided that since two springs came in a package, that installing one spring just wouldn't be enough, so cut a little more metal, drill a couple more holes...

575187_10151832117935051_1682289360_n.jpg

 

547337_10151832118250051_1001480350_n.jpg

 

I <3 b00st:

550860_10151832118455051_1814100953_n.jpg

 

579993_10151832119030051_1017600482_n.jpg

 

So far, it's working better. I hit a solid 15 PSIG, which is what the ECM is programmed to control the boost at. I haven't held it there for long, but will test more probably tomorrow, to make sure that it's good.

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Yes, there is a wastegate actuator. The rod is behind the springs in the above pictures, and connects to the same point as the arm that holds the springs. The springs are just additional to the existing wastegate actuator, since my exhaust was pushing the wastegate open, and may still be. UHG!

 

I think I'm going to dig out one of my other actuators and replace the one I have on there now, since the current one is only about 2 PSI, and most others I have are 7 PSI and up. Either that, or more/heavier springs...

 

My ECM controls a solenoid that allows pressure from the intake manifold to the wastegate actuator.

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I think I'm going to dig out one of my other actuators and replace the one I have on there now, since the current one is only about 2 PSI, and most others I have are 7 PSI and up. Either that, or more/heavier springs...

 

Yes, definitely do that. Close the gap between what the actuator wants to do and what your boost controller wants to do.

 

I've heard of bush mechanics putting a socket over the end of the actuator where the vacuum hose goes, and giving it a good flog with a hammer to increase the spring pressure, and increase the boost :o

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The extra springs serve the same purpose as increased wastegate actuator opening pressure. I just think that using a higher pressure actuator might help even more. Tonight I was hitting a SOLID 16 PSIG in 4th and 5th gear, so I'm wondering of some of the fluctuations that I have been seeing were maybe due to my steep gear. I plan to put a taller gear in soon anyway.

 

Anyway, I took some pictures earlier tonight:

 

282917_10151856649300051_1687516195_n.jpg

 

562140_10151856649845051_74641368_n.jpg

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  • 2 months later...

A few overdue updates:

 

Well, I drove my car over 200 miles at the beginning of August, round trip to a family gathering, for the girlfriend.

 

Well, on the way there, I went to pass somebody on a two lane stretch , down shift, pull out to pass, just down shift and get into about 12 PSIG of boost, when *poompfff* all boost goes away, and the car lays down a little, still pulled, but not as hard as wehn there's boost. The Girlfriend is like "what was that?" I just looked at her and said, "It was just a coupling, just won't have boost." "Will we make it there?" she asked. "Yeah, no worries."

So we get there, I open the hood hoping that it's just the throttle body coupling, that would be easy to fix, since I had similar issues in a previous vehicle using the same TB, nope, that's not it, keep looking, nothing from the top, look under, sure enough it's the lowest coupling, directly under my oil pan, just in front of the trans. :facepalm:

So we visited for a bit, then eventually pulled my car down to the garage, jacked it up and re-installed the tube into the coupler. I decided to check the couplers near there, and tightened all of them under the car. I then decided to check all of the couplers from above, and sure enough all of them were loose. One in particular was odd, when I started tightening it, the coupler started to expand around the tube, which is not a normal thing to happen, when tightening the clamp. Sometimes, it may flare out just a tad, but not like this was. So I loosened the clamp off, slid it up and bit and tightened down the clamp, it actually tightened around the tube then. Didn't think a whole lot about it, other than I figured that could have been the cause for a sound I was hearing recently under boost. It was, the cause.

A little while later we leave, it's a gravel driveway, and road from the farm and out to the paved road. So I get out on the dirt road, get it in 2nd gear hit the gas a little and hit 5 PSIG, good, all fixed. Get down to the paved road, pull out, hit the gas, 1st gear, major boost, like 15 PSIG worth of boost, it's NEVER done that before, pull second gear, boom, another 15 PSIG reading on my gauge, hot damn, that's awesome! Get a little farther along in 4th gear, I see 20 PSIG on my gauge! I have max boost commanded as 18 PSIG, since I was trying to find a boost control problem previously, and commanded more than I wanted, just to meet target boost.

So now after tightening the clamps, and placing the one clamp properly, I now have SOLID boost in all gears, it's way too much fun when it hits these boost levels. I'm once again impressed by the L28.  It seems I've had this leak for a while, since I couldn't get the variable boost (based on MPH) to work properly for a long time.

 

I took a friend of mine for a ride today, when he first got in the car, he knocked my emulator connection out, I have it in kind of a bad place with nothing to protect it. It pulled hard in limp home mode, only running on spring pressure, which produced about 12 PSIG. Plugged the emulator back in, and took him back the other way, for some reason boost was down a tad (He is a big guy, and could really feel that he was in the car), but 13 to 14 PSIG of boost in 5th gear is a lot of fun. Things get quite blurry. ;) He was thoroughly impressed with how the car performs.

 

So glad to finally have the boost control side sorted out. It spikes by about a PSIG, but I think that is due to too high of an initial wastegate duty cycle setting, again from trying to chase down the boost control issue previously.

 

Then a newer update:

 

Well, the I6 era for this car ended  last night.

 

I've had a slight issue the last couple of weeks that when I would hit high boost and high RPM, it would seem like the ignition signal would go all wonky and act like I hit a fuel cut limiter. Tried changing a few things, lowered the boost level, as a temporary solution. Changed another part tonight, to try and solve the issue, went for a short drive to a local hang out spot, problem not solved, when I went to leave the engine turned about half a turn, stopped, then turned over normally, and started to run, only it ran like the fuel rail was heat soaked, but looking at the AFRs they were fine, then a cloud rolled past my window... Awww man...

It was white, and when I revved it a couple times water or coolant came out of the exhaust and landed on the asphalt.

 

Well that solves the mystery, headgasket.

 

So I dropped the car off at home, and went for a lap in my friend's car, came home, and pulled the plugs. #6 was wet, the rest were perfect.

 

Oh well, time for a new engine.

 

So I'll be selling off all of my I6 parts, anyone interested? That includes the turbo cam cover and turbo exhaust manifold, modified intake manifold, which is smoothed and modified for 14mm O-ring injectors, including the fuel rail.

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when it comes to coil packs, its all about dwell charge times.

 

I dont know what the dwell charge time for the LS coil packs is, but it'll also depend on the ECU thats running it.

EG, if its only capable of running a waste spark coil pack then running the LS coils in a waste spark isnt likely to make any gains.

For the dwell time to charge the coils then discharge in a waste spark arrangement, it'll be very similar to a proper waste spark coil pack to begin with.

To be fair though, either setup would be a massive improvement over the standard single coil setup though.

I would think though a lack of spark at high RPM wouldn't have a big issue on damaging a motor, moreso that it just wouldnt ignite the fuel mix properly, causing a rich run scenario and lack of power.

 

Sixshooter, maybe time for a crazy engine swap? 2JZ? 20B rotor? RB motor? V8 engine?

 

*in Arnold Schwarzenegger voice

DO ITTT!!!!

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Is it the bearings in the dizzy causing the problems at high rpm? Why not fit a new ML headgasket, sounds like it was almost sorted.

 

Or do you have a new mod in mind?

 

I can guarantee that the dizzy bearings were not an issue.... There hasn't been a dizzy in this car in about 4 years. ;)

 

When you have high boost levels, don't you need a stronger spark? You may need to go LS1 coils or similar...

 

The coils I use, have been used on VERY high cylinder pressure applications without issue. IIRC the spark output is the same or higher than the LS1 coils. ;)

 

when it comes to coil packs, its all about dwell charge times.

 

I dont know what the dwell charge time for the LS coil packs is, but it'll also depend on the ECU thats running it.

EG, if its only capable of running a waste spark coil pack then running the LS coils in a waste spark isnt likely to make any gains.

For the dwell time to charge the coils then discharge in a waste spark arrangement, it'll be very similar to a proper waste spark coil pack to begin with.

To be fair though, either setup would be a massive improvement over the standard single coil setup though.

I would think though a lack of spark at high RPM wouldn't have a big issue on damaging a motor, moreso that it just wouldnt ignite the fuel mix properly, causing a rich run scenario and lack of power.

 

Sixshooter, maybe time for a crazy engine swap? 2JZ? 20B rotor? RB motor? V8 engine?

 

*in Arnold Schwarzenegger voice

DO ITTT!!!!

 

Up until a few weeks ago, all information that I could find suggested that the dwell was controlled by the ignition module itself, but now there are some people saying that the ECM controls the dwell time, which I have not been able to verify. Regardless, this is not an issue, with these coils, they have plenty of energy, and have been used in high boost apps, without an ignition amplifier, and without issue.

 

I have to decide between just doing a "stock" engine swap with my proposed engine and maybe drive it again next year, or tear the car down and build it up the way I want starting now.

 

I started college today, so funds will be tight for the next 3 to 4 years, and I can do a lot of the fabrication in that time without a whole lot of cash needed. I'd really like it to drive it with the V6 and goodies, next year, but I'm not sure I'll be able to afford the insurance anyway.

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