My engine freshen up......

[PZG302]

All sounding good Matt. Let me know if you need a hand with anything.

Not sure what I can bring to the table though haha.

Shaun, if I get to run at Cootha some nice photos to use for marketing at work would be good

[PZG302]

It's been a a while since the last update due to being away in Warwick for work for a couple of weeks.

But the engine has been finished and after a few frustrating days it went back together and really screams.

Power is a shade under 200rwhp at 5600, and I will have a little more after a quick mod to the ignition system, swapping out the standard 280ZX module for a more modern Bosch unit and also modifying the intake so the air filter will sit at the throttle body and will be shielded from the exhaust to keep the heat out. This should give me a bit more power a little higher in the rev range and it will also get a bit more timing back into it as it is currently running very little total advance.

I will throw up a copy of the dyno sheet if I get a chance over the weekend.

The car feels a hell of a lot quicker and was able to light up the rears at pretty much anytime with too much throttle as I went up the hill at the Cootha Classic, will take a little while to get used to the new motor, but the car should be bloody quick once I get some track time to get used to it again.

[.]

Shaun, if I get to run at Cootha some nice photos to use for marketing at work would be good

I think we know of a good marketing shot if your business involves selling bollards

[PZG302]

I think we know of a good marketing shot if your business involves selling bollards

nah....those were shiver, i drove straight through them, only damage was a cracked front spoiler

[dat2kman]

Ooh souded very gnarly at Mt Coothe hillclimb, well done Matt.
Toldya Jimmy m puts a decent one together.

We been talking hypotheticals, and came up with using a tiny stroke L24 crank, knifeedged, nitrided etc, a L28 F54 block, get it soniced to check wall thickness, and if good, whack it out to 89mm bore, forged (approx) 29mm pin height slugs, and some REAL LONG forged rods, approx 140mm? whatever, to suit crank centre to deck height, steel flywheel, blah blah, a p90 head, 47mm valves (int)with 4mm sliced off the face, the special timing chain tensioner, and OER 48mm itb's, it would need mating to a close ratio box, and as it will produce root all torque but BAGS of high 9000 RPM HP, it has to go into a lightweight ( VERY) shell.
Hey guess what, there is the Lime Green240  here in Brissie, and it;s owner is seriously thinking about it! ( The supercharged L28 in it ATM isn't his, it has to go back to the engine owner , 'sides the SC sucked ballz, and wasn't set up and never worked too good eneways)

[PZG302]

Jason, yes Jim screws together a very good donk. And it also sounded pretty good from inside the car.

Jon was very impressed with the first takeoff on Sunday , but did compliment me on how it did go when it wasn't wheelspinning. Jim will have the timing and the intake sorted before it goes out next. I will be running at Morgan Park in the 1 hour enduro in September, and will doing a shakedown the first Monday of Spetember at the MX5 club track day.

We also played the hypotheticals, and also looked at a L20 crank to see what class that would put the car in. Would be an interesting. but very expensive motor to run keeping it together at 9k!!!!!!

From what I've heard around the traps, I think I have an inkling as to why the look at the different motor.

[PZG302]

Well it's taken me a while to get off my arse and get the dyno sheets scanned, work has kept getting in the way of getting the Zed sorted.

I ended up with a very nice torquey motor for not a lot of dollars, especially with some of the extras needed like new clutch, radiator and some other fabrication work that was easier to get done all at once.

The motor ended up giving a maximum power reading of 195.5rwhp at 5600rpm. Torque we got was a max. of 212 ftLb at around 4300rpm, looking at the dyno sheets it will drive very nice from about 3600 through to 6000rpm with the current set up. Certainly can light up a pair of 230 wide slicks off the line.

I plan to make a couple of changes before it goes out next, basically replace the 280Zx ignition module as it doesn't like having a lot of advance at the moment, basically sitting around 8 deg BTDC, any more and it pings at high revs and number 2 plug gets too hot. The other mod is to put some heat shield between the manifolds, even though the extractors are wrapped it still looks like too much heat is getting into the inlet manifold. I will also be moving the air filter from out the front of the radiator up to the throttle body if I can get it to fit around the dizzy. This should see some more timing back in the engine and subsequently a bit more power and a few more revs. With the bottom end I'm running it should rev to around 7400 safely, though I won't need to go over 6800 and the rev limiter is set at 7000.

[stevo_gj]

Great stuff! Good to see some results Matt.

Mind if I ask how much is not much?

[PZG302]

Great stuff! Good to see some results Matt.

Mind if I ask how much is not much?

For the rebuild, around $7k for everything including new forged pistons, all head and block machining all the replacement parts for the engine. there were extras for my build including getting the clutch rebuilt, dyno time, new radiator, injectors cleaned and tested, plus some other work done.

Helped that my head didn't need to much done as all the combustion chambers were pretty right and only needed a touch of machining done to unshroud the valves and the ports were all ready done for producing torque. Block only needed a hone, well should have been bored out, but just on the acceptable limits for what i want to do and it's already at 89mm.

I tend to work on $1000 per cylinder to build a good street motor built from a standard motor and you can go as high as your wallet allows for a race motor.