Well I finally decided to respray the bus before all the new interior goes in. Started to rub her down and waiting for new front guards to turn up. The old ones have the headlight pods welded on and need some minor repair so I am sticking with original looks as have two spare sets of pods to go on. Old guards are up for grabs if any one wants them cheap. Not sure how far back I should go with the rub down so any comments will be greatfully accepted also hints on do don't does on resprays. God I love working on the Z. Gets me out of a lot work around the house.
Hi Pete,
Once again a personal thanks for all the effort with the extractors you shipped across...........
The paint, I noticed that the rub throughs on the areas you have sanded back seem yellowish, is that correct?
If so this would indicate the car has been done before as the original undercoat layers would have been a white/bone color.
If this is the case, then that would mean the color layers you are rubbing back are 2K / Enamel most likely low baked.
The only dangers you face with spraying straight over the top are as follows.
(A) If you are going to apply a 2K over the top again, you may see shrinkage that outlines the actual shape of the rub through areas some months down the track, to avoid this you would be best to apply a sealer coat of high fill over those area's first, I also know there is what is called an ISOLATOR undercoat specifically designed for this exact purpose, what ever you do, dont apply a wet coat of acrylic primer over it, the acrylic thinners may actually cause a reaction if applied to wet either at the time of application or after the final 2K top coats are applied.
(B) If you are planning to paint it in acrylic, the same applies as in the previous point, you ca easily fry the rub through edges if you are not carefull, and what must be remembered is that enamel is like concrete, while acrylic is a much sofet material, after a period of time, the 2 having reacted differently to climatic conditions of hot and cold weather work against each other and the the upper surface starts to disply stress in the form of crows feet, blistering peeling etc etc etc.
(C) If that is hi-fill under the upper coats, then I would actually use the color coat as a guide coat and block it all back until you have more or less a hi-fill surface again, this will have the effect of flattening out the panels to a glass smooth straight finish, minimise the material you have on the high fill and greatly reduce the defects mentioned in the last 2 points from occuring.
Personally, I would go with option (C) and then send the car around to a bpaint shop and have them spray and bake a new enamel finish on.
Cheers
John
