Not that I really want to sell... but she's been un-reg'ed for the last 10 months and I can't find a reason to register her as I never get to drive her. Yes, it's been started and moved regularly. Four kids, two dogs, not enough hours in the day or days in the week to have a 'toy' car any more.
All questions and photo requests welcome. I'll try not to leave any surprises.
Model: 240z HS30-00908 July 1971.
Item Condition: Fair. Paint needs a damned good cut & polish. various chips and dents, slight crease in passengers side guard after some a-hole clipped it in the work carpark. Interior was re-trimmed by PO, but it's a bit tired. Replacement seats fitted, but drivers is pretty worn. And (once again) one or two of the injectors are weeping.
Body: Rear end has had some repair work done around the rear hatch lower surround - only visible because the not-quite-perfect filler job. Rust bubbles in the lower front guards, some small floor sections and rails were replaced by the PO, mainly due to a leaking master clutch cylinder. Rear hatch has has the single gas strut removed as the rear hatch has a crack where the hinge is welded on. Windscreen was replaced by PO, reportedly had to be trimmed slightly to fit, there is a crack in paint at the top of the drivers side A pillar... hasn't changed in the 10+ years I've had the car... and a small crease in the bottom of the A pillar. The bonnet is not genuine Nissan. But the underside and front rails are damned straight, and there are no air leak noises from the drivers side door when moving. In heavy rain, there is a slight water leak from the passengers side door seal at the front... but it's not a car you drive in the rain (gets a lot sideways). Drivers side window winder is BROKEN, drivers side door latch mech needs replacing, it dislikes locking unless the door is closed "firmly".
Mechanical: Running. Noisy diff (typical R200 howl)... gearbox was rebuilt less than 1000km ago, but noisy still, mate who rebuilt it found it had had some gears replaced previously and some marks on the teeth... And it doesn't like the heat in slow traffic(ie. 30+C) the temp gauge starts to follow air temp as the FMIC blocks too much air to the 3-core copper rad... it really needs an alloy radiator.
Price and Payment Conditions: $13K. Bank Cheque from an Australian bank.
Registration: Will sell with 3 months ACT rego.
Engineers Certificate: Yes, but not for the front brakes, but the parts for that were all bolt-on so should be easy.
Extra Info: RB20DET w. RB25DET ceramic turbo (less than 1000km on the turbo), SS split sump pipe, FMIC, thermo fans, NisTune ECU (stock map... the loom was missing the diagnostics plug, needs wiring in), RB20DET GBox (centre console removed to fit as the shifter interferes with the stock console), Commodore turbo pump, lift pump, surge tank, fuel cooler under the rear, 280mm x 27mm vented front brakes with Hilux 4-spot cast iron calipers, R200 3.9:1 plate LSD, 14x7 rims with reeeeeally old tyres (10+ years), adjustable front coil overs (200lb/inch) on 260 2+2 inserts (front right upper bearing has a knock which goes away when the car gets moving but I have spares), unknown rear springs on Koni's. Front crossmember modded for bump steer & camber plus the front control arms might be a little longer than stock. TechEdge Wideband O2. Immobiliser wired into the loom... over the top job, even I struggle to work out what I did but there is a wiring diagram. Turbo plumbed for boost controller... never fitted the electronics, it's quick enough already even with the stock RB25 actuator. I also have... the original L24 block, the original E31 head, matching coil-over rear struts (2+2), a complete disk-brake rear end kit (300ZX rotors, skyline brackets, 280ZX calipers), spare strut housings, a 260Z coupe dash, the original centre console, 3" 5-point and 2" 4-point harnesses, a rear brace bar for harnesses... a tow bar (NEVER fitted). Plus a bunch of odds and ends collected over the last 20-odd years.
Pictures: Just a sample, happy to take pics of any aspect.
Contact Details: PM.
And just to point out again : things that definitely need to be attended to - Drivers side latch assembly, drivers side window winder assembly, some new tyres (oooold!), engineers certificate for the front brakes.