Technical > Engine

Should I run an RB20DET?

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BobsYourUncle:
*puts on flame suit*

I'd like to think this isn't just another "I want an RB, can I do it for $10.50?" thread.

Today my mind wandered to the thought of putting an RB20DET in my 240z, and the more I thought about it, the more sense it started to make. I want my car to be a daily, take me to work and back vehicle, so reliability and fuel economy are coming into this somewhat.

I know everyone would usually say go the rb25, but my 240z project is already engineered in Qld for an rb20det (it's benny's old car). I've currently got an F54/N42 L28 with triple DHLA40s in it, but triples probably aren't the best choice for what I'm after (or are they??). It was engineered with stock brakes :o, but now it's got hilux fronts and r31 rear discs.

I guess my question is, doing most of the work myself, can I do this conversion for $5k or less? And is it worth it? I figure I can get an engine, gearbox and loom package for around $2k, then I've got to budget for mounts, tail shaft, cooling, piping, modified/custom sump, fuel pump, surge tank, new fuel lines... anything else? I'd run the stock ECU and stock internals, I'm not looking for crazy performance...

I suppose the alternative is to inject my L28. I suppose $2k or so would go a long way in this regard. Would installation complexity be that different? Fuel efficiency and power would still be worse though...

I'm after opinions as well as facts, any input would be helpful :)

nizm0zed:
As as simple answer id say no, dont bother with the RB20. You'll have a much nicer driving car if you spend that money on the L series.
The RB20 is pretty much on its edge with minor mods anyway, and it doesnt make any power unless you rev it right out.
Its torque that makes a car fun to drive on the street.
HOWEVER! Its allready engineered for a RB20 so it makes it an easy swap. Bear in mind, for the engineers cert to still apply, it has to be TO THE LETTER of whats on there, so stock brakes and all. Anything else will require re-engineering. At that point, your better off to go with a RB25 or RB30 (and maybe RB25 head on it later) Or RB26 if you have lots of money.

I think you really need to asses EXACLTY what parts you allready have, or can get within your budget, Or look at what that same amount of money will get you if you mod the L series.
fwiw, I got quoted $500 to tune my Haltech from a rough base tune into a fully driveable car.
Add on $1200 for a Haltech platinum sport, $400 to set up your fuel system (pump, lines, clamps, reg)
Use a L28E manifold and a nice set of injectors ($400?) and your off and running.

luvemfast:
I'd stick with L series.

Zedman240:
Any engine you choose with EFI will be great to drive.. My L24 has a pretty lumpy cam (74') and with the EFI, have driven to work and back several days a week while I was getting my other "car" roadworthied. But my system will set you back around 5K depending on what you buy new or used. If you want everyday smoothness, a 280zx manifold will work well but for any spirited driving, would need to me modified. I did have a NA RB25 and that was great to drive; smooth and quiet. If you come across a Rb engine for next to nothing, I'd go that way.

zzzzed:
Hmm I have the rb20det out of your car which I bought from Benny. The l28 that you have used to be mine. for what you want it for I think the rb20 is an good choice. It will be good on fuel and have just enough power to be fun to drive. They make just over 200 hp in stock form and with a with a few mods they can wake up quite well. I had one in a r32 skyline that suprised many a v8 commodore bogen. Plus they are a little stronger than the rb25 as they don't have the ring land issue. But saying all that I will be looking to upgrade to an rb25 in the future for a bit more fun

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