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#185007 HS30-00019

Posted by George on 11 November 2016 - 08:24 AM

Two year turnaround and what a turnaround it is. Can't say enough about the team at Custom and Classic Cars. It was brave of them to take it up in the first place and to follow through with this result is just amazing.




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#185397 HS30-00019

Posted by George on 23 November 2016 - 06:07 PM

Paul dropped off a little present this morning. :D


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#188957 Lurch's L24 Build

Posted by Lurch ™ on 05 March 2017 - 08:55 PM


I thought this build deserves a thread of it's own, as the last 'Engine Build' thread I posted seem so popular.

The whole back story as to how I ended up here is a long one deserving of it's own post, but for now I'll stick to the build dairy of my 'Early Girls' matching numbers L24.


Some time in the late part of last century, Harry (the dear PO) had Gordon Dobie rebuild the L24, increasing it's capacity to 2.8 liters by using a L28 crank, rods & pistons.

The E31 head had it's ports cleaned up in the short turns & L28 valves fitted. A mild camshaft was also added.
Along with the 45mm ITB EFi it punched out around 150hp at the tyres on the dyno.


This will take some time to progress, as I only started stripping the L24 down this weekend.

I do however hope to have it completed by mid year (famous last words?).


Why am I doing this you ask? 

Well some of those horses have escaped over the last couple of years & it had a propensity over overheat if I pushed it hard...


The specs will be:

L24 E31 block

Standard P3040 L26/L28 Crankshaft

133mm H-Beam Con-Rods & ARP Bolts

SPS 86.5mm Forged Pistons

ATI Harmonic Balancer
2500lbs 200mm HD Clutch

AZC Alum sump.


E31 head - ported by Les Collins

Camshaft - TBA

Triple 44PHH Mikuni-Solex carburetors on a Kameari 'SmallPort' manifold w/ ITG JC100 filter.

SWM 'SmallPort' Extractors (ceramic coated)

3" SS exhaust with FlowMaster mufflers.

Expected power: 280hp & 220ft/lbs torque (approx)


Here's the poor old L24 before I started stripping it down:



I was concerned about the bore thickness since it had been overbored by 3mm already. Thankfully it was OK:




Numbers are in thousands of an inch - e.g. '150' is 150thou or 3.81mm

Accepted industry minimum bore wall thickness is 120thou or 3.048mm


As a note, when I popped the pistons out, all the top rings were broken - not good, but thankfully no serious bore damage.

However due to bore scuffing & general wear, it'll get bored 0.5mm as suitable cast pistons and/or rings are not available any more.

Also cast pistons won't be happy for long over 250hp / 7000rpm+...


Stay tuned for the next update :)

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#197161 Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z

Posted by KatoKid on 12 October 2017 - 01:18 PM



Mod Plate.jpg


Now its real.



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#189726 Roberto's PMC enhanced 260Z

Posted by Roberto on 20 March 2017 - 09:04 PM

I was fortunate enough to meet a very talented, young photographer at All Japan Day who volunteered to do a video production of my 260Z.  Big thank you to Yianni from YV Media for producing such an amazing video of my car!


This is a very nice summary and conclusion to this build thread.  Cheers to all.



1.png  2.png


3.png  4.png






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#199706 Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z

Posted by KatoKid on 22 December 2017 - 04:42 PM

It does Peter!


Nothing to see here....move along


Morning 4.jpg  Morning 5.jpg  Morning 6.jpg  

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#197031 Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z

Posted by KatoKid on 08 October 2017 - 05:31 PM

Good news.....the car is back from VASS engineering inspection.


A few minor points he wanted clarifying but the only fail was the noise level, came in at 99db on a 96db limit :(



We talked through his list and he is happy with everything and doesn't need to see the car again:

  • I need to fill out the brake conversion spec sheet, just for the records. He was very happy with the performance of the brakes in the test, absolutely no fade and spot on bias.....not bad considering I just left the Wilwood proportioning valve where it came out of the box!
  • I need to send him a photo of the rear brake line a full droop, I explained that I had them made 20mm longer than standard R31 just for this reason and he was happy with that.
  • Explained that I had made the front caliper adapter from cold rolled 13mm mild steel and was happy with that.
  • Will send him photos from my steering rack thread to confirm the rack dimensions....a case where the build thread is good documentation for just this sort of thing.
  • I explained that the bolts I used for the front calipers and adapters were the original Datsun caliper bolts from my car  and some donated from the spare struts that I picked up. Again he was happy with that.

I need to go through the noise test again and have made a couple of temporary baffles for the occasion!



I still need to drive the car more before I decide long term how to proceed with the exhaust, it is a tad loud in the car but I didn't put the Builders choice dynamat in the rear compartment floor so this may tame it down some...we shall see. I'm very happy with the exhaust from a performance perspective and don't want to choke it too much.


All up I'm absolutely stoked with the outcome. Tom was very complimentary about how the car was presented and finished and said that he loved it. While he was driving it for the brake test a guy pulled up next to him and waved him over, thinking that there might be something wrong he pulled over but the guy just wanted to buy the car! Given the mods that I've incorporated I was expecting to get knocked on a few things and the fact that I got through virtually unscathed was very gratifying. 


I'm a happy chappy.  :)

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#192853 Project Cars Vs Driving - Complete - Finished Cars

Posted by luvemfast on 07 June 2017 - 09:04 AM

May be a can of worms, but here goes......

The idea here is more of a guide for every Tom, Dick and Harry wanting to but the cheapest Z they can and restore it.


Here's my 2 cents.


I'll keep it short and sweet.


You want a project car to work on right? Then you can spend money on it slowly and build it up over time.

Next thing you know, it's been 10 years and you've not only lost interest. You've still never driven it!


Buy the best car you can afford. If you can't afford the best car, the cheap one will cost more than that!

People think that buying a rusty clapped out POS is going to be the best option. It's not.

Even a guy who loves working on cars and has years of experience, will want to buy a good solid base to start from. 

If you don't have the money. Why not get a loan and buy a better car. 
Instead of spending money on buying parts to restore and repair rust. Use that money to pay off the loan while you enjoy the car. 
If you have the money. Why don't you just spend it on the right bloody car? 
The most valuable thing any of us have is time.

What are you going to spend yours on?





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#176608 Charlie's rb260Z PROJECT

Posted by charleszed on 19 April 2016 - 11:51 AM

Check out the video here

Thanks to D2 Productions
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#197344 Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z

Posted by KatoKid on 16 October 2017 - 04:42 PM

Now its really done.






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#190836 Nissan Datsun Nationals

Posted by mother240 on 16 April 2017 - 08:24 PM

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#189009 Cars For Sale (3rd Party Sites) Ebay, Carsales etc..

Posted by gav240z on 06 March 2017 - 08:14 PM

Rather than address individual posts here that have been reported. I've edited out any slurs or foul language.


Since I'd rather not dredge up a few days of back and forth arguments. Instead I'll just state that this thread is solely intended for the discussion of advertised cars on the market.


As 1 of the most viewed and used threads on this site, it also carries with it a large subscriber list that receive every update / reply.


Therefore I'm sure the majority of members would appreciate any tit-for-tat commentary be moved to another thread where you can knock yourselves out or kept to PM system where you're free to abuse each other as much as you like (just don't complain to me about it), until you've worked it all out of your system :).

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#172038 L28 Rebuild

Posted by Lurch ™ on 27 January 2016 - 08:23 PM

Next I installed the main bearings into the block and torqued the main caps down, so the bearing size could be measured.

Les measured all these for me & the size fell between 2.2thou & 2.5thou, so we were good to continue.

Then we did the same with the rods (I didn't get a photo the std rods, so here's a H-beam being measured in the same way.)



Next the crank was installed, making sure EVERYTHING was PERFECTLY clean. Any fluff or lint was picked off each crank journal, so it was spotless.
Then the bearing shells were oiled up, and I carefully lowered the crank into position, oiled the bearings in the main caps then installed them, torquing them up to 40ft/lbs. 


Pistons then needed to be installed onto the rods. The washed con-rods had their little ends heated to a 'straw' colour with the OxyAct torch, & the Gudgon pins pushed into place locking the pins in place on the rods with the pistons.


Once they cooled down I began installing the rings - unfortunately I forgot to get a photo with the rings installed, so just use your imagination...


Then the bearing shells were installed into the rods, the shells oiled, the ring pack generously oiled & then slipped into the ring compressor (The ring pack is oiled so that it slips into the bore easily). 




I solid push & into the bore it goes:




Notice the notch on the piston is facing forward.

The rod is carefully guided onto it's crank pin, the rod cap installed & torqued up to 40ft/lbs as well.

This process is repeated for the remaining 5 assemblies, until I had this:




The short motor was then turned over, so the timing chain setup could be installed.




First the front steel oil gallery plug had to be installed:



Mmmmmm blurry....




Next the lower timing sproket was checked for wear, pronounced fit for use & installed onto the nose of the crank.

Next the Dizzy  drive gear was ready to go on, but  it was found to have excessive wear, so I went & hunted through my spares & found a matching spindle & drive gear.
This was washed up & installed onto the crank nose.




Then the Dizzy drive spindle was checked for end-float in the timing cover (with the oil pump installed).

The end float was excessive, so I went looking for a suitable hardend washer of the correct thickness:





The end-float was now less than 2thou, so I was good to continue.

Next the head dowels, gasket & head were sat on (cam lobes 1 & 2 set to fully open or 'rock'), which allowed me to set up the timing chain.

New Japanese chain, guides & new hydraulic tensioner was installed with the original cam sprocket. 




After all the timing gear was installed & done up tight, I installed the front timing cover & gaskets, and the water pump with the re-plated bolts.

I then torqued the head down.




A little 3-Bond is wiped around the WP 'through bolts' to stop them potentially weeping coolant.




Finally the oil-pickup & repainted sump was bolted back on.

Then the (primed) oil pump & dizzy drive spindle were installed, along with the new Scorcher Dizzy. Not forgetting the front oil seal, Harmonic balancer, lower Alternator mount & water outlet:
















And that's it!

Well not quite - I still have some ancillary components to install on the engine, but that will happen when the customer brings their 240Z in to have the engines swapped.


While I haven't covered every little detail in building this engine, I hope you enjoyed this little tour of PROPERLY rebuilding an L6.
I shall update this thread when the engine is installed, around March.
Any questions, please feel free to ask :)


Again a HUGE thanks to Les at Les Collins Racing for allowing me to build this engine at his shop!



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#166709 The Green Hornet And The Lcr L34

Posted by Lurch ™ on 29 September 2015 - 10:17 AM

Les Collins Racing, Peter Mac & myself proudly introduce the Green Hornet 240Z & the LCR L34!


It’s not hard to see that Greg has a stirring passion for his 240Z. Theirs has been a long-term love affair. Fully committed to the spirit of the Z, Greg has been on a 17+ year journey of constantly improving all aspects including brakes and suspension while steadfastly resisting all temptations of different engines, forced induction or fuel injection for his beloved 240Z – widely known as the “The Green Hornet”.

Attention was again focussed on the engine when old faithful of 17 years succumbed to a broken LD28 crankshaft.


He'd become jaded with the claimed performance BS from local engine builders servicing the racing scene in California, and as he started to explore his options it was looking like Kameari in Japan might be the go, but after a long delay in trying to get something underway there, a chance conversation on the ‘Hybrid Z’ web forum led Greg to contact Les Collins

To Greg’s surprise his first long distance conversation with Les proved to be a revelation. Here was someone he could relate to, someone who was still making strident advances in L-series engine development, and someone who seemed committed to making his clients’ motorsport ambitions a reality...


The rest of the story can be viewed here: http://lescollinsrac.../3435cc-z-racer




Specifications are:

Displacement: 3435cc
F54 Block - 90mm bore with full race prep
LCR spec 90mm Stroke Billet Crankshaft
ARP Main studs
AZC Sump
Custom flywheel & OS Giken Clutch
LCR spec Forged Rods
LCR spec SPS Forged Pistons
11:1 CR on PULP

LCR race spec P90 cylinder head - flows over 250CFM @ 28"

Special LCR spec camshaft

Triple 50mm Solex PHH carburetors

LCR Extractors & LCR 3 inch Stainless Steel system with Borla & Magnaflow mufflers.

LCR / Albins hybrid direct drive gearbox.
Ultra close ratios (2.4 1st gear) 

LCR short shift conversion.




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#198830 Auszcar 2017 Christmas Bbq - 26Th November

Posted by Lurch ™ on 26 November 2017 - 04:42 PM

Turned out to be a great day - only some minor showers interrupted the early afternoon.



Attached Thumbnails

  • BBQ2017.jpg

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#193653 HS30-00019

Posted by George on 23 June 2017 - 03:32 PM

A very wise man encouraged me to write down my progress and suggested a quarterly digest as an easy way to document my journey. Excuse the ramblings and if you're looking for anyone to blame, Peter is a good place to start.



Autumn 2017


Autumn has been a period of procrastination, contemplation and frustration punctuated by clarity.


With any large project your best intentions often get trampled by procrastination. Lazy evenings spent on the couch melt into each other. Almost every opportunity to breath some rust dust in the garage is met by an excuse and of course, each excuse is justified and valid enough to avoid the guilt of procrastination.


Excuses. They come so easy, rolling off the tongue naturally, comfortable and safe in thought. Easy. My favourite has been my first-born, Benjamin. I don't want to miss a moment of these precious early days. I get so little time with him as it is, it just seems wrong to leave him for the garage for even just one night. If we're being honest though, he goes to sleep at 7:30 each night and there are 3 hours between then and my bedtime.


I've been contemplating my excuses as the cold of winter approaches. Will the cold be another excuse I can add to my arsenal? You see, I've come to realise at the root of all my procrastination lies one excuse that I've been afraid to face. Fear.


In my garage sits a bare shell. It is perfect. Smooth as silk. An irresistible bust. Slender with a curvy rear. Shinier than 1970. How do I do it justice? How can I even think of bolting on a part that hasn't been stripped, cleaned, zinc plated, restored, painted, shiny... worthy.


Strangely, but not surprisingly, it's not just my expectations I have to meet. It's hard to admit it but I feel the pressure of the community watching over me. They're looking over my shoulder and just like someone standing over you when you type, the pressure of thoose eyes opens teh door to misakes.


With that in mind, it's easy to just do nothing and delay the difficult task of meeting high expectations. Towards the end of autumn though, my procrastination manifested itself in to angry frustration. Man up and have a go, pull your socks up I told myself. It's one bolt at a time but the spanner doesn't turn itself.


Surely I'll hit rough patches - those curve balls and such - but here we are then, post procrastination, trying to turn bolts one at a time until they're all tight.


My first task after receiving the shell - post staring at it - was to make some templates for the firewall insulation. With the help of a very clever gentleman (thanks Pete) who supplied templates I managed to get them spot on.











The original firewall insulation is made up of 3 panels and each panel is made of a jute material with a semi-rigid plastic/rubber/vinyl black face. I spent far too many hours looking for a suitable face substitute and came up empty. As luck would have it, a fellow Z enthusiast (Thanks Dave) gave me his insulation as he had no need for it.


His insulation is in great condition although the jute is dark and feeling a bit sorry for itself. Seeing as I need jute replaced elsewhere in the interior, I decided to replace the firewall sections as well. Again, after spending many hours looking for a local supplier, I came up empty. I had found a few suppliers in the UK so after a couple of emails one of them put me on to a local supplier! My excitement was short lived though as the local supplier didn't have it in stock but said more was on its way via the slow boat... Should be due in time for my winter update!








The only components rust had overlooked were made of plastic and fabric and even then, it sure tried. It comes as no surprise then that even the heater box, which is hidden in the bowels of the interior, had fallen victim to the insatiable rust.













I was told by an older gentleman about a DIY rust removal trick using molasses. Simply mix the molasses in a large container 1:10 with water and let the parts sit completely immersed for a week. The rust is eaten away and paint just washes off. Very easy and non destructive. Surface rust attacks the metal almost immediately but it's nothing in comparison to the aged rust it removes.





It did the trick but it sure stunk up the place! I used the same batch twice and noticed large white caterpillar looking insects growing by the end.













Painting the heater box was an experience I'd rather forget. Very difficult to get good coverage inside a box with surfaces that are hard to reach. I have since painted it black and will post an update once it is all assembled.











Pedal Box

The last thing I worked on in autumn was the pedal box. It received the same molasses treatment and I had the same issues with painting. Despite some of the surfaces being even harder to reach, the little practice I had with the heater meant it was an easier task.


















Bring on winter, the season of my favourite food, chestnuts. :D

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#190488 Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z

Posted by KatoKid on 07 April 2017 - 03:52 PM

Sometimes I doubted this day would ever come.....


Big thanks to my brother for encouraging and being a great sounding board through the process.


First drive 1.jpg  First drive 2.jpg  First drive 3.jpg  First drive 4.jpg  First drive 5.jpg


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#189020 New Moderator - Pb260Z

Posted by gav240z on 06 March 2017 - 10:30 PM

Hi Folks,


Thanks to Peter (PB260Z) for putting his hand up to help out as moderator which involves wearing a few hats including: 

  • The verification of new posts and flagging of spam (so we don't have to see it).
  • Welcoming new members.
  • And attending to some of their basic questions (which can require a lot of patience).

Why have a moderator? It's true that most of the time things run smoothly around here - but as we all know, it can also get a bit heated. 


I think it says a lot about Peter that I didn't even have to think twice about the promotion. He's just a natural fit for the job and already helps out a lot with these tasks anyway.


Congratulations to Peter and please feel free to welcome him to the new role.



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#186727 Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z

Posted by KatoKid on 05 January 2017 - 06:34 PM

So...... much success and happiness in my pants today......despite my shed replicating the oven in our kitchen!


Not enough fuel in the tank meant the pump was sucking air, hence the multiple cranks.


Very happy with the exhaust note but road test will be the acid test.




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#184131 Kato Kids BMW M3 powered 71' 240Z

Posted by KatoKid on 15 October 2016 - 04:35 PM

Thanks dat240z, have to keep reminding myself not to cut corners. Having come this far.....would be kicking myself if I let anything slip.


Real progress today, hopefully its in for good and I won't have any reason to pull it! Not that its hard to R & R.


Final Engine Install 1.jpg Final Engine Install 2.jpg Final Engine Install 3.jpg


Will need to reroute the front wiring harness, didnt realise it was that close to the exhaust....a good example of what happens when you dont install everything in the preliminary build.


Final Engine Install 4.jpg

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