Been wanting to get the build thread on the Z for a while now and finally the time has come.
Currently White 73 240z unfortunately Auto with a L24 engine. New plans are to strip the engine and the 3 speed out and slip in a L28 with a L28 5speed.
The flairs are definitely going to be taken off and if needed replace the inner and outer guards. Interior will get replaced with a new kit from the U S and A and I'm replacing the Recaro seats back to factory seats. I recently purchased some seat covers that will need to get put on the stock seats I have.
Colour I'm still not sure if I should stick to a off white or head down the 918 orange path. Both will look nice but I'm not 100% on this one. Attached Thumbnails
Pics are always good so below are some taken with the engine and transmission still in which show the huge amount of space for big tyres in the wheel wells. Those are the race Hoosiers off the 280 which bolt straight up with no clearance problems, F 9" rims, R 9.5". I'm bloody rapt, so much space for bigger wheels and tyres.
The project itself should start next week with filling in the T top openings and adding some structural bracing across the top of the door openings.
Seeing that it's a turbo model the brakes look like they have Z32 rotors, just need some decent calipers. One thing I've learnt is that suitable brake pads are very important, proper race ones will withstand extreme temperatures and actually brake much better. Having stock rotors means that they are not expensive to replace too. The rear axles are second generation CV jointed and for the R200 diff a reasonably priced Quaife LSD centre is available. Keeping all the stock type suspension, the rear will be interesting, I have some fairly dramatic mods in mind to get the semi trailing arm setup working satisfactorily
So the project is going to be stock based except for the engine and auto trans.
Another great run up to Clifton on the weekend although I got lost five or six times. Lots of rain as well and not so good a run home when the wipers stopped working. Great people great Zeds.Attached Thumbnails
Hey guys. Well I know it has been a while, but I have reached a stopping point on my 911 and it is time to start my Z build.
This week I first needed to replace the front wheel bearings on the 911 so I could put wheels on it and move it out of the way. I then got into doing a stocktake on my Z to see what it needed, and start formulating a plan for the build.
Here is the episode.
I struggled to find this thread again after seeing it a while back, thought I should bookmark it this time and those with interest in historic racing may also enjoy!
As per the title, I need to make a decision on tyres. Advice I've had so far says to go with a road/track type tyre otherwise you end up having have two sets of wheels. So what brand and model of tyre?
Rims are 16 x 8 +0. Looks like most people run 225/45 but I would prefer 225/50 for a bit more sidewall but there is nearly an inch difference in diameter and I don't want to add to or risk guard interference issues. Whats peoples experience with the 2 sizes?
Looking for one of these as my 3.70 with a 1:1 5th gear is a bit frantic...wotcha got?
I know, not zed related, but if anyone in Adelaide drives (or knows someone who drives) a Holden Astra (98-2003, TE without ABS) I have a full set of brake rotors that I'm happy to give away to any member of this site.
Here's a gumtree ad that has part numbers and photos (ignore the price - free for forum members!): https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/collinswood/brakes-suspension/full-set-of-brake-rotors-for-holden-ts-astra-rda7542-rda7544-/1162588426
As the subject suggests, I've got an Innova 5586 timing light for sale. It's basically as-new with very little use.
These are worth about $120 new, so I'm looking for $80 ONO.
Pickup from Adelaide, or plus postage (it should fit in a 3kg express post satchel, so about $16).Attached Thumbnails
Photobucket has broken all hosted photo links in this thread. I am hugely apologetic but there is little I can do at the moment other than pay their US$400 extortion fee or hope that the internet bands together for a longer term solution.
In the meantime I will look for a more reliable image hosting location and link to the photos. I will not personally be re-linking each photo but I can try and upload them in a single spot.
Dadson Racing – 2010 Rebuild
Well, originally I wasn’t going to start a histogram on this build; I wanted to keep it to myself and just appear one day with a totally new car. But (there is always a but ) then things changed and what was once going to be a quick re-spray with fibreglass front and rear end has turned into so much more.
The History: This car is an English delivered 260z that now resides in Australia. Back in the day rust-proof meant coating the entire car in grease and tar. The panels from the underneath of the car all have about 2-3mm of tar on them and the inside of the car was sprayed on the panels. 33 years has done its worst and now all that grease is pooled in nooks and crannies EVERYWHERE.
I’ve owned this car since I was 15 (2004), the day before my 16th birthday and I got my L-plates. The first time I drove it was on the race track. Since then I’ve never had enough money to do more than keep the old girl in good enough condition to enjoy her at the track. Now, a newly graduated uni student with no financial ties and a new job I want to tackle the project I have dreamed of since I first drove this car all those years ago, sideways in third =D
When I started this project my car weighed in a hefty 1180kg (2600 pounds for the slow Americans). This puts it in a territory heavier than some of the 2+2 cars I compete against. I did the sums and thought about a 3.1L motor. With 175rwhp on tap and an expected gain of 30rwhp (17%, 173.7hp/tonne) for probably not much change from 10k I thought about what else I could do to get some decent performance from the car. Keep in mind I already set the benchmark for the guys I compete with and consistently go undefeated in fastest times. Basically, I want a fun, street driveable race car without trying to totally blow away the competition. In the regularity events here in Perth, there is nobody in my class faster than the zed I could possibly catch in a zed without a turbo motor, so I want to stay in touch with the zeds without having people chapping too close at the bit.
Introduce bright thought number 2: Weight loss!
With weight loss I will not only gain straight line speed but also stop and turn faster. When 2km/h increase in speed around the local track is worth 1s I rekon I can take more than this out of the car with weight loss.
100kg (10%, 166.7 hp/tonne) less in the car will give me almost the same extra power to weight ratio of that 3.1L too! All things equal, 10% less weight to haul around the corners should give more than a 2kph (1.7%) corner and straight line speed increase. I could do the maths, but it’s late
So, the goal: Take 100+ kg out of the car, make it a show stopper and track stomper, for not much more than a cheap stroker-motor build. 1050 is the target, but lower would always be nicer.
To get 100kg out of the car should be fairly simple. With a literal metric ton of rust proofing sprayed on the car back at its birth in the UK the car is carrying a lot of tar and grease. I want to remove all the old fashioned tech rust proofing and apply more modern stuff. So, the parts to get me to 1050 or less kg:
Fiberglass mud guards
Fiberglass front and rear bumper bars
Acrylic rear window
Acrylic winding side windows
Acrylic quarter windows
Replace sunroof with a new roof skin
1” master cylinder
Fiberglass driver and passenger seats
PWR Aluminium radiator
Aluminium Radiator Air box
Fiberglass Cold air intake box
Aluminium front splitter
Full ground up bare metal rebuild
Front strut brace, braced across, to firewall and to front chassis rails
Delete old-school grease and tar
Metallic blue paint
High-tech sound deadener and rust-proofing under body coating
Powder coated suspension
Roll centre adjusters
On car adjustable rear suspension arms
Alcantara interior trim
This year over Easter I competed in the regularity trials held annually at Mount Panorama Bathurst. I did a 2:55.4, 5s faster than the last time I went there in 2008 and clocked a top speed of 240kph. Next year I want the car there and I want to do a 2:4X.XX (probably a 2:49.99 ) and 245+kph.
Initially I was going to hoard parts and then do the rebuild in one go, but things changed and I’ve decided I will do it gradually over the course of the year. December/January will be the final deadline.
This “Diary” will cover the entire build process, any changes of mind (expect many ) and all the heartache and pain along the way.
7 April 2010
Headlight Covers, new roof and 1” master cylinder purchased. The car is in Sydney in these pics and has a 3500km truck ride to get back home before work can start
20 April 2010
Roof sent to the panel beater for storage. New PWR Aluminium radiator ordered.
30 April 2010
I ordered Roll Centre Adjusters (RCA’s) and Rear Control Arms from Techno Toy Tuning. I already have their front torsion/compression (T/C) bars and LOVE the strength and over-engineering of their parts. I had a T/C snap at 200kph on full brake into an 80kph 90o right hander and don’t need another similar scare again.
Unfortunately the box was pretty tattered when it rocked up and one of the control arms had been damaged in transit
But, Gabriel (the great man he is!) covered the cost of the repairs and so I sent them to a shop. In the mean time I got stuck into fitting the RCA’s:
This pic shows a modified arm on the right of the pic and the unmodified arm on the left of the pic. You can see how the control arm points upwards on the left and down on the right. Down is better =D. Another quality TTT part!
The close fit with standard rims. In fact I had to remove the wheel weights on the front right hand wheel because they fouled on the steering knuckle
The new look front suspension with both of the RCA’s fitted
TechnoToyTuning Rear Strut brace for standard strut tops.
Bought these a while ago, cost me $250 landed and have gone with a half cage, so obviously don't need the rear strut tower blace
Never been put on the car... **BRAND NEW**
Asking 180 + postage
Note: Is also advertised elsewhere.
A few months ago I purchased a 77' 2+2 with the intention of doing some serious mods (RB25DET) to it however the car is very original, came with RWC, original rego, lots of paperwork all matching numbers etc and is in good condition so Ive decided to keep it as a weekend driver while I looked for another candidate that I wouldnt loose sleep over inflicting some serious mods too.
Wasnt too long before I got lucky.... through a friend of a friend I heard about a Z that had been sitting in a garage for many years and manged to convince the owner to let me take a peek. Initial impressions wernt that great but as I looked closer I realised it had some potential.
Car is a 4/71 plated HS30 chassis # 00728 and had been partly stripped 17 years ago for a resto by the current owner but he lost interest and never went any further. The full drive train and underbonet were undisturbed but he's pulled all panels off as well as the interior and paint stripped the shell. All parts were in boxes and marked.
Overall condition of car:
No "visible" holes under the battery tray.
No holes near bonnet hinge mounts
Fuel filler excellent.
Rear hatch and hinge mounts excellent.
Slam panel, rear valance and beaver panel excellent.
Spare wheel well excellent.
Drivers floor and rail good (I think).
Bonnet has a small hole.
Rear wheel arches are pretty good 8/10.
Not so Good Bits
Both doors will need skins.
Front guards will need repair sections.
Reinforcement plate on chassis side near caster rod has holes on battery side, drivers side looks suss.
Passenger rear floor and rail will need repair, front half looks OK.
Both dog legs, rear section of sill and inner section are pretty bad.
Passenger front sill panel (behind guard) stuffed.
Top radiator support panel had a foam seal glued to it and is pretty sad.
I finally convinced the owner that it was better off in my shed than his so we swaped cash and car.
Overall Im pretty happy with the acquisition.
It had been repainted from the beige original colour to a dark red and is covered in residual paint stipper and superficial surface rust. Plan is to get it on a rotisserie and have it blasted to reveal the deeper evil.
Thanks to Lurch for looking over the 2+2 and advice thus far and thanks to all on the forum for the inspiration to take this on.
Will see you at the BBQ tomorrow night.
To kick things off an interesting car for sale is this 280z.
Asking 100K - never registered car.
NEVER LICENSED 1976 280 Z, 1976, $ 100,000.00
80 Z car bought from dealer 1976 and has never been licensed. Driven 36 miles and then parked for, Yes 38 years and still smells new. 354 total miles. Not sure what to ask for this car taking all offers. Feel free to call me at your convenience, thank you for your interest. Dean 909-257-6551
205 60 15
Loads of tread as only used on an old 911 on the street for a while .
$200 pick up or post from Mount Waverley Vic 3149
Cheers Doug Attached Thumbnails
have been trying to improve the idle on the car, so have tried everything on this forum ( and beyond)
- checked sparks
- checked points gap
- fiddled with the mixture knobs to about 2.5 turns
- checked for vacuum leaks
- checked float levels
then, went and got one of those fancy all in one timing lights ( my tacho is in repair at howard's instruments)
,,, and then was surprised that the dwell is sittng at 30 degrees at 750 RPM. FSM says 17 deg ,as far as I can tell
i actually found 3 settings
7 ( in FSM), 17 ( supplement) and 5 i(n owners manual below)
so I rotated the distributor counter clockwise ( vac off) till its about 17, went for a drive and it's lost at least 30% off the top end power, accompanied by a bit of backfire
idle is not great either
what haven't i checked ?
I'm selling my 2 post car hoist. It's an Aussie made hoist (not the cheap Chinese ones from eBay) manufactured by Formula. Its capacity is 3.8 Ton, powered by a 3 phase electric motor with 2 hydraulic rams & dual automatic locks. These hoists are awesome with a clear floor under the car when ur working under them so no tripping over the cable covers like other hoists. Only reason I'm selling is cause I'm moving where 3 phase power is not accessible so has to go. Price is $3500 ono. Will be available from the beginning of December.Attached Thumbnails
Just installed a coolant reservoir tank to my champion 3 row radiator. It´s working better now. Anyway, the car is still presenting some sluggish acceleration when stuck on a 5 to 10 mins short traffic. Can someone explain to me why if i pull out all the NGK BP6ES spark plugs and brush the carbón off, the car accelerates fine? I have both of my carbs set to 3 turns clockwise. If i lower it more, i start loosing power at 1st gear.
Bought a rust free white 240z in Sydney about 8 weeks ago (paid far too much) and had it transported to Brisbane.
Then spend the next 8 weeks fixing & removing rust!
I really cannot complain to much if I look at the size of the repairs others had to endure in the past.
The goal is to build a similar car to the Fugu Zed built a few years ago in California.
Here's a Supercar video, car behaviour looks really good unlike some simulators which have their cars wobbling around.
The really good news is that there are models of a 240ZG GTS-II, 280ZX IMSA GTX and two Z32's. But if you buy check what cars you are getting to make sure.